TA In Progress

I'm in the neighborhood just north of Deeds on Outville. White Oak Estates.

If you live near Outville/Deeds roads, it was my neighbors. They had a party last night and let them off. I saw them out my living room window and went outside to see what they were.

I would definitley recommend Kevin for any of your painting needs. He recently sprayed the front clip of a Solara that my father and I rebuilt, and both my dad and I are very happy with the results. Kevin was not only much cheaper than anyone else, but he had it done in no time. The car is silver which can be a pain, but the color match/blend is spot on. I haven't personally met Kevin, but my dad was very impressed with his customer service. I plan on using Kevin for another vehicle here in the near future. Thanks again Kevin!

If it's new, then you can probably manage to change the cartridge without a puller. I've been able to do it on ones that have been in service for some time. It's really pretty easy to do yourself. Once you remove the control lever and trim, you'll see a retaining clip. Remove the clip and then you should be able to pull the cartridge out. If all goes well, it's a 10 minute job. If you end up needing the puller, you can find them online pretty cheap.

I assume it's a submersible pump? Do you know how deep the well is? You might want to research pulling a well pump if you really want to pull it out. It can be a pain in the ass, especially if you have a deep well. I think it's the ODNR website where you can find the well log for your property that among other things tells the depth of the well.

Considering it's a Chinese-made piece of shit, I'm sure Walmart will being selling them soon.

If you do add a ridge vent and want to get the most out of it, then make sure your soffits are vented as well. This will enable air to flow in the soffits and out the ridge, completing the "circuit" of airflow. Also, if you already have gable vents, then you don't want to add a ridge vent. Plenty of information out there on why you don't want to do that.

Just did one these a few months back. 18mm nuts on the core support bolts. You'll either need a deep well socket or a wrench for these, as the bolts thread through the nuts a good bit. 10, 13, and 15mm will cover everything else. Take some extensions as well.

I know they're pricey, but I have to recommend a Dyson. We've had one (DC14) for close to 6 years and it's has been flawless. We have a 100 lb. husky/retriever mix that sheds like there's no tomorrow and it does a great job with the pet hair, especially on the hardwood and ceramic tile. Also, we used one of the 20% off mail coupons at Bed Bath and Beyond which saved about $80.

I would think the size of the tube would matter. When we do inspections on pitot tubes, we aren't allowed any kind of damage/deformation on the leading edge of the tube that reduces the diameter of the opening, and I assume this is the reason why. I could be wrong, though.

I hear Mad Hatter is good. Seriously though, I've heard Precision Glass and Shower does good work, but it's not cheap. 614-267-8280.

+1 I have had this issue several times. The thick silver coating on Thermoquiets can be a little thick around the edges and makes them bind up.

Rigid tubing isn't a requirement, especially in your application. Plenty of commercial aircraft have flexible line somewhere in the installation, usually where the lines connect to an air data computer, etc.

The whole process took about 9 months for me. I had the paperwork/appraisal submitted by the end of March, my hearing was in August, the approval notice came in October, and the check came in December. It normally may have been quicker, but they were also doing the 2011 reappraisal at the time so I think that slowed it down a bit. I almost just waited to see what they were going to do in the countywide reappraisal, but I'm glad I didn't. The auditor showed me what they had planned to adjust ours to and it was still over $45,000 more than the appraisal I submitted. They ended up going with $5,000 over the value I had in my appraisal, and it's saving me close to 35%. It was def. worth the small amount of time and effort.

I know for sure the FPR on the earlier Magnum trucks was part of the fuel pump assy. in the tank.

I was allowed to make the down payment in cash when I bought mine, although a certified check would have worked as well. I noticed the down payments required on the homes for sale that day varied with the situation (bank foreclosure, delinquent taxes, etc.). The house I bought was at the sale due to delinquent taxes. It previously had 2 mortgages, and only the first mortgage holder showed up to bid. He was the only other person bidding, and once the bidding reached the amount owed on that mortgage plus the delinquent taxes, he stopped bidding and I won.

They have TMU right there in the listing. I would assume the title is branded TMU which means there was an odometer discrepancy at some point.

Any stored/pending codes?

Still have my first car which I bought almost 21 years ago. Don't think I could bring myself to part with it.

I've done the manual start procedure you describe more times than I care to remember. If the ground is really wet, you can watch it suck the water right off the ground. Worse is trying to find a leak with the transcowl open and all the bypass air blowing in your face.

Mine has a 2 piece setup. A relatively short manifold and then a 2 foot pipe that bolts to the cat.

Cracked exhaust manifolds, (Advance in Pataskala had one in stock), exhaust systems, CV boots/shafts, ball joints, etc. are all pretty common. I just got done doing quite a bit of work on a 97 EX, and it was honestly probably the easiest car I've ever worked on. Did every gasket/seal (including head gasket)on the engine, all hoses, belts, t belt/tensioner/wp, and exhaust manifold and had it done in a couple afternoons. Everything was in stock at the parts store, and all of the parts were pretty inexpensive.

It looks like a 1g Talon wheel.

I just bought an AC Delco for a GM and it was a Denso. I've had really good luck using Bosch as well. Also, check ebay for your sensor. I have bought quite a few Bosch sensors for half of what the local stores wanted. I usually just search for them using the p/n as opposed to the application and seem to come up with the best price that way. The last one I bought was $30 shipped to my door, and I believe the best local price was around $65 plus tax.

Yeah, it's the big white church. Parking can be a bit of pain, so we always parked on a side street and walked a block or two.