Cereal_Killer

$4 per blade? I was worried it was gonna be to much, that's a great deal (to me anyway). Is it walk in and they do it while I wait or do I need to call and make an appt? Thanks guys.

I'm wondering if anyone is really good at knife sharpening around Columbus or if there is a company someone can recommend that isn't overly expensive. I've recently gotten a few new (used but new to me) knives for really good deals and while I've always been able to maintain a decent edge on my smiths diamond sharpeners 2 of my new ones in particular are so fucked up I just can not put a good edge on them to maintain. If anyone has a good quality sharpening setup (preferably hand, but a machine would work too) and could hook me please let me know.

Just waned to update GG has agreed to exchange the BNIB D25C for the matching D25A, if someone wants it now I'm still waitin on the RMA to go threw, if you want it for $45 take it now.

I have a used Surefire and two brand new lights for sale. The Surefire is an original surefire G2, this is the one with the old laser products crosshairs logo (it still says "SureFire, but its got the crosshairs logo) it has installed a SolarForce XM-L U2 single mode P60 drop in. It's putting out 550 OTF LUMENS! It runs off 2 CR123's / RCR123's OR any 16340 sized batteries. This light is in perfect shape, no scratches on the lens, no dings or anything wrong with the body. Light+drop-in retail=$90+ I'm asking $65 for this light. On to the new lights- Up first is a '13 eagletac D25C neutral white, this is the clicky (not the mini/twisty) new for 2013 is a neutral white XM-L (CREE's newest generation of emitters).This is the top of the line D25 model without going to the Ti line, its solid black (the lower end models have a silver bezel) I received this as a gift but I'm moving away from CR123 powered EDC lights, I am trying to get going gear to let me exchange it for the same light but in AA format (the D25A) but in the mean time if there's interest I'll be happy to sell it. Retails for ~$55+ shipping, asking $50 Next is a FourSevens Preon P1 blue, this is the XP-G version. The Preon is well known for being the smoothest action twisty light, its also very elegant and won't make you look like a "flashaholic" while still offering high-quality and cutting edge technology in a 1xAAA package. Retail is $32.50, asking $30 Both lights come EXACTLY as they would if purchased new. I'm only selling to fund more lights. The Preon includes a battery in the box, the Eagletac doesn't but I will include one CR123 in the light. I have no way to post pics but these are both literally BNIB, neither have been carried and the eagletac has never even been removed from the box. I prefer FTF around the west broad / norton rd / Rome-Hilliard rd area but I will ship anywhere CONUS on your dime ($5.80 USPS w/tracking, insurance additional)

Hilltop, I can meet you anywhere around the west side of town.

I have a new in box nitecore SENS CR I got for doing a few reviews for a flashlight retailer, Msrp is $32, I will take $25 or $30 shipped anywhere, cash in person or USPS money order ONLY! Read a review of the nitecore SENS series and see pics here (one of my fellow reviewers from CPF, not mine) this is a unique twist UI light as you don't cycle threw the modes- H, M & L each time, the light has a built in G-sensor and turns on directly to the mode you want based on the angle at turn on, it also has a 4th mode that is active dimming, no flashing crap. This is a TINY CR123 flashlight, its the same size as my thumb, just barley larger than the battery it runs on. I will include one new Panasonic battery in it. This flashlight has a TIR lens, NOT a standard reflector, if you've never experienced a TIR light there is no flood area, the light is concentrated in one central corona (hot spot) with almost no light radiating away from that spot, it is a GREAT beam for a light you would expect to have a simple 5mm LED just looking at its size. This thing is rated at 190Lm but from my experience, and compairson to some of my other lights, its right about 150-160Lm on a fresh battery. It comes with everything originally in the package, I'm only selling it because I have several other small single cell lights already and it would never get used. I will also trade it for some CR123 batteries, I'm looking for bulk pricing (2-3 bucks/each) not Walmart 2-pack pricing ($10 for a 2-pack) The best/fastest way to get ahold of me is email- dgostlin1@hotmail.com

I have been doing some NFA law research for my own needs and I came across the definitive answer to SBR/SBS registration removal so I'll add it here in case anyone needs it in the future. http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/national-firearms-act-short-barreled-rifles-shotguns.html#removal-from-nfa And the most pertinent info- Q: What is the registered part of a Short Barreled Rifle (SBR) or Short Barreled Shotgun (SBS)? While a receiver alone may be classified as a “firearm” under the Gun Control Act (GCA), SBRs and SBSs are classified in totality under the National Firearms Act (NFA). A firearm that meets the definition of a SBR consists of a rifle that has a barrel less than 16 inches in length. A SBS consists of a shotgun that has a barrel less than 18 inches in length. The serialized receiver is recorded for registration in the National Firearms Registration and Transfer Record (NFRTR). Q: I possess a properly registered SBR or SBS. I intend to strip the receiver and remove the barrel prior to selling the receiver. Is the bare receiver still subject to regulation under the NFA as a SBR or SBS? A stripped receiver without a barrel does not meet the definition of a SBR or SBS under the NFA. Although the previously registered firearm would remain registered unless the possessor notified the NFA Branch of the change, there is no provision in statute or regulation requiring registration of a firearm without a barrel because its physical characteristics would make it only a GCA “firearm” pursuant to 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(3)(B). If the subsequent owner buys the receiver as a GCA firearm and installs a barrel less than 16 inches in length (SBR) or 18 inches in length (SBS), the firearm would be subject to a $200 making tax and registration under the NFA by the manufacturer or maker of the SBR or SBS. Because registration depends upon the stated intent of the applicant, there is no provision to allow registration of a NFA firearm by anyone other than the maker or manufacturer. Q: If I remove the short barrel from the registered SBR or SBS, is the receiver still subject to NFA transfer and possession regulations? If the possessor retains control over the barrel or other parts required to assemble the SBR or SBS, the firearm would still be subject to NFA transfer and possession regulations. ATF recommends contacting State law enforcement officials to ensure compliance with state and local law. Q: Does the installation of a barrel over 16 inches in length (SBR) or 18 inches in length (SBS) remove the firearm from the purview of the NFA? If so, is this considered a permanent change? Installation of a barrel greater than 16 inches in length (SBR) or 18 inches in length (SBS) will remove the firearm from the purview of the NFA provided the registrant does not maintain control over the parts necessary to reconfigure the firearm as a SBR or SBS.

Sherluk is the lowest end china crap out there, theres a reason they are going for $500 when a campariable upper from a reputable company is twice that, there not hooking people up...Ohio company or not please dont build a rifle using any of their crap. The ONLY Sherluk part I have ever used is a $1 muzzle device crush washer. In January I traded a dude I know a upper/built lower combo that he put a Sherluk barrel and BCG on/in and after breaking it in from the bench he's lucky to get 6" groups at 100 yards. It might work, but it doesn't work well.

^if he didn't take the last 5 ill take 2 of them.

What pattern are you looking for? I don't have any advice for where to find one but .308 AR pattern guns arnt as universally compatible as AR15's

I agree with this statement however on my one remaining AR I use a DPMS lower (no DPMS parts, JUST the lower receiver) and I had no quam selling a S&W MP lower and keeping this one. I have never had a problem ever, I've had a couple different 5.56 uppers on it as well as a 9mm upper of my buddy's, its perfectly within spec and has taken a beating over the last few years, not saying they don't exist but I have never heard of a problem with just the lower. LPK and barrels are junk without a doubt. FWIW in its current state it's got a CMMG LPK and a complete rock river upper and I have no plans to change anything on it other than a RRA operator stock and a different muzzle brake to QD my form 1 can. Back on topic I wouldn't put to much thought into not having M4 ramps, I don't and there's never been a time I wished I did. Either way you'll be happy, just make sure if you have to end up piecing one together than you don't mix and match m4 cut barrel w/ non m4 receiver or vice-versa, that's where the problems come from.

Of course they're still going to keep you on "the list", the govt loves lists lol, as for the engraving my 7.62 saiga came with a factory engraving covered up with a repeating triangle design and whatever it said underneath was unreadable. With the limited market for NFA its not that bad of a compromise if you ever need to get rid of it. My philosophy-NEVER SELL OR TRADE AWAY ANY GUNS...

One and only bump. Will also sell for $20! If your using a remote triggered light this mount works GREAT! I use a non-remote TLR-1 so I can't activate my light when mounted this way. The mount is $30, a rail section is <$10

To unregistered a sbs/sbr you simply send written notice to the BATFE.

Make sure you buy a QUALITY piece to start with if you ever want any chance of selling it, NO ONE will EVER buy a SBR low end AK and if you cut down a rifle you won't have the option to sell it as non-NFA. At least with a pistol you can un-register it, remove the stock and sell it as a pistol still.

I have a new in package MOE black right hand scout mount. Will attach to carbine/rifle or shotgun MOE hand guards. Looking for a pair of short or medium MOE rail sections or one longer metal rail section. Got it and changed my mind how I wanted to mount my shotgun light, brand new, never mounted. Cash price is $25.

Just want to add- I am looking for a west German sig P226 with the mag release on the butt of the mag well/pistol grip. I will trade the gun straight up for the sig but I get to keep and sell all the accessories & ammo (I will still include the MBUS set and 3 mags) VERY hard to find, I hate myself for selling mine, someone from armslist already offered his west germen p226 but it had a standard mag release...

I am looking to trade my AR or possible sell it but really looking for something new, not cash. Description- Rock River upper- the older normal flat top, not the new raised E4 series. 16" chrome lined barrel with carbine length free float hand guard. Ordered complete from rock river and the only changes were to remove the front sight and to replace the muzzle brake with a A2 hider so It wasn't as loud to the shooter. DPMS lower- STAG parts kit, ACE AR-FX entry stock, ergo grip w/ battery storage Included accessories- Magpul MBUS gen 2 sight set ($100) EOTech 511.A65 w/ box and paperwork, 2 months old from Vance's ($450) 14 USGI 30 round magazines, 8 rebuilt with anti-tilt followers ($300) 1250 rounds of assorted .223 ($750. If you want to buy 1250 rounds today you would pay $1000+) Streamlight TLR-1S w/ upgraded 180 lumen strobe capable CREE LUXEON REBEL emitter swap ($125) With all the crap at my total asking price your getting the gun for UNDER $1000 (show me a better deal, if you want the gun only and to stick me with a bunch of parts that I no longer have an AR to use with dont expect to get it for the same low price) Included with the trade will be a box of AR specific random parts Cash value is $3000, again I would only spend the money on a new gun and with it so hard to find what you want these days I'd really prefer to trade. WILL TRADE FOR: I'm looking for a lot so make offers, there is >$3000 (NOT INFLATED) worth of stuff here, that's $4000+ of current armslist prices. Rifles- -AUG or MSAR STG-556 (US built AUG clone) -SOCOM 16, any modern version of the M1 -FACTORY bullpup AK's (NO CONVERSIONS) -Kel-tec RFB, KSG or any of their crazy new guns -Saiga 12 -Saiga .223 or .308 (but I get to keep all my ammo if its .223) -HK of any style/caliber -Other HK style battle rifles in .308 -Current polymer (NON AR PLATFORM) carbines/rifles - you get the point of what I'm looking for, no .22 versions of anything I would also consider a deal for handgun(s) High end compact 1911's (kimber, Springfield, Sig ect.) Glocks Sig's HK's (espically pre USP's) Springfield XD's If its a higher end gun (1911 / sig / HK) I would take the additional value in mags/ammo or cash. If its a lower grade (glock, USP's, springfield XD, low end Sig's or the like) I would only be interested if it was a multi-gun trade or there was still a large amount of cash on the table as well. To help you out i can also remove options to lower the value of my trade. If you need to add value but don't have cash I will value any 18" 20" or 24" 10/22 along with 500 rounds of ammo at $500 trade value. images hosted on armslist, hot links not working, I'm working on pics... http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2013/02/28/1158638_02_complete_ar15_with_xtras_14_ma_640.jpg http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2013/02/28/1158638_01_complete_ar15_with_xtras_14_ma_640.jpg

I need an original TLR-1, the 80 lumen one, I already have a tlr-1S and I can't upgrade the C4 version. If you have one you dont want/use or you want to upgrade let me help you out and buy your old one from you. I have cash and would much prefer to just buy it but I also have ammo and/or other trades I would possible consider.

I've gotten into flashlight modding lately, put together some killer 200+lumen lights out of spare old parts I had for just the price of a quality HID LED (~$15) I'm now out of broken lights that fit the bill and I'm bored. I'm looking for old/broken single diode lights, not the kind with multiple low power led's, I can't do anything with those. If you have a 1 up and/or 3 up light let me know- best bet is to email dgostlin1@hotmail.com Thx

Im interested in a MSAR STG-556 and have done tons of research on them. I love the AUG but right away figured out these are not AUG's, not even that close. They don't have a very good rep but it seems to be hit or miss, universally their CS gets praised and the problems usually get resolved but I have also read several instances of money including transfer fees being refunded because they person just got tired of problems or the rifle couldn't be made reliable. Suprisingly I'm not turned off of them by the fact there seems to be about a 50% chance ill have to have it serviced at the factory after the first shoot. Does anyone own one? Has anyone ever owned one or know of anyone who did? I'd just like some general advice, maybe even to shoulder one. With the money I'm going to spend on any AR these days, even a low end home build, I'm really considering one of these instead. They fit all the requirments I have of a second carbine plus they're just cool looking. Points that worry me- It's a knife company's first gun... Does it shoot steel case ammo? I have a lot of wolf/tulammo in my ammo stores. How is mounting and dismounting with it? (In and out of vehicles) does it truely do better than a AR or do its ergonomics tend to negate any possible advantages of simply having a shorter OAL? Does the shape overall or any corners or sharp edges tent to get stuck in/on/snagged up by clothing or seatbelts or anything else? I've never ran across it but is there any way to make it take STANAG mags? Or ways to make its mags work in an AR even if the AR mag didnt work in it? Training with an AR, and having NEVER used any bullpup will I ever learn to be proficient at mag changes without loosing the muscle memory I have built to the AR? How is the recoil compared to my AR? Stronger/weaker? Still pretty much straight back or does it have more/less muzzle flip? If I get one with the fixed 1.5x optic will I regret it? I think it looks great but I don't know how I'll like it, I know I would never even think about such an optic, either 1x or 3x-4x are what I would go shopping for if I went with the railed version.

Just like everything else sometimes keeping the wife happy, or keeping her from getting fucked over (hey is she's getting fucked somewhere else she's probably not going to feel like fucking you), is worth loosing a couple bucks, or a ESP or whatever other situation you find yourself in.

Personally I wouldn't go back, even if they do stand up and fix everything there is still the issue of it not being done when promised, and "bob" telling you to come pick it up AFTER business hours. If they do correct the problem, and it was me, I would politely explain that I'm very thankfull they did what was right but there were to many mistakes made that one right can't abolish them of sin and I would no longer do business with them. As for the ESP's they have a contract with you, they have to provide quality service for the remainder of the ESP's independence from if you still do new business with them or not. That's just my $.02, you're the only one who stands to loose anything if they didnt so do what you think is best on that. Maybe you could find another stand-up jeweler and explain the situation with the ESP's and work out a deal with somewhere else for service at a discounted rate or maybe get someone to cover existing pieces after a new purchase or something. I mean look at the service they're providing right now, what's to say its not going to be exactly the same next time, even if you do always end up with the same cash value of jewelry every time if your wife has to go threw this mess each time is going back really worth it?

Did you ask to inspect it as is? I would go ASAP, you can't take her word. Retaliation? Sounds more like they did the wrong work and/or lost something, or didnt do any work at all and are buying time. If I were you I would go get my shit right now, take it to a different jeweler that can do what the wife originally wanted (and replace the stone if it really is cracked) and bill Jared, if she's already offering you compensation asking her to pay a bill from somewhere else isn't to far from what she already offered. This is her wedding ring your dealing with, if it were my wife and this happened to her and now they want to send it off and take who knows how much longer for her to have it back diplomacy would be out the window and down the street, my wife would be in there trying to kill someone. This isn't a mens gold band here, if this happened to your ring you'd be mad but life would go on, I don't know your wife, or you for that matter, but I know my wife and if ANYTHIG happened to her wedding ring she would be devastated and hanging on every second till she got it back.

Well you already have a few points to address however I would also bring up why an employee wanted you to show up at the store after hours, was bob trying to do something shady? Pocket the money from you or what? Did he know the register would be closed and think he saw a way to make a quick buck, of course inventory is strictly controlled so he's not going to pocket a ring or anything but maybe he thought he could pocket your service fees and this other employee wasn't supposed to be there but got held up with the customers still there. Not saying don't blame the business, but maybe there's more to this employee telling you what he told you than first meets the eye...