acklac7

Now they're saying it's the fuel pump - $650. Needless to say it's being towed back home.

Not every time, but im 6'6 and seem to be constantly working on stuff, and when im not working on something im fishing so yea, takes it's toll.

Yea I worded it wrong. However I did frame my post to draw comments from tech's, not necc. to troll but rather to see what there viewpoint's were. What I meant to say / should have said was I wonder how a seasoned tech would react if I tried to tell him what I thought was wrong with a vehicle he had been having issues with. To be honest even as a manager I would have trouble telling a professional how to do his job... Before I made this post I ran the whole scenario through my head as if I was the service advisor/customer/technician. As a Tech I would probably have issues with a S.A. trying to definitively tell me what is wrong with a car, mainly because that's not really his job.....right?

Actually want to be a Service Advisor, and part of me was wondering how a seasoned tech would react if I tried to tell him how to do his job. Now I know...:thumbup: :gabe:

Ok first off I almost always work on family member's vehicles (at no charge). Evaporator cores, CV joints, Climate Control modules etc. I fucked up my back last year and then recently fucked it up again working on my car, so im trying to take it easy (3rd times a charm). Also the old man has always seemed to like having a Mechanic and gets some sentimental effect by going over there or something? And I really can't blame them for missing the control arm bushings. I mean shit happens, I know that. But like what pisses me off is the battery was not bad, I mean this problem has been going on for about 3 months now and he's had 0 issues with the battery. I would have no problem if they would have simply said "we can't reproduce the problem...sorry". Instead they claimed to have fixed the problem by installing a new battery. I mean you can't reproduce a no-start issue so instead you sell a battery and say you fixed the problem. Am I the only one who thinks that's suspect/shady? Sorry for the rant but the old man has been through alot in the past few years and it's sorta hard for me to see people apparently try and take advantage of him after all the shit he's been through.

Alright so the old man has a shop that he's been taking his cars to for like 15 years. When he moved back from Florida he found the owner (whom he new really well) had more or less sold the shop, or at least a share of it. He managed to talk to the old owner and still felt comfortable bringing his car there. So anyway about he's had a rattling coming from the rear suspension for a while now. I thought it was the swaybar links, and so did "his mechanic". Well he got the car back and the clunk was still there, maybe a little better but still rattling like crazy. I took a look at it and found the control arm bushing was shot. He took it back and told them the noise was still there (without telling them I took a look at it). They replaced the control arm bushing for free and the suspension was dead silent. Lately he's been having intermittent starting issues. Got it to act up a few times while I was with him and you can hear the starter spinning but it's not turning the flywheel. I told him the flywheel was either chipped or the starter was going bad. Finally it seemed to have died for good and he got it towed in to his mechanic. They called him back a few days later saying they pulled/tested the starter and it looked fine and it was actually the battery that was bad/causing the problem. Upon hearing this I immediately called :bs: While im no expert I am pretty good with cars and about a year away from getting my Automotive Technology Associates degree & ASE certs. If the batter was bad/weak the starter would have labored when trying to turn the flywheel and at least attempted to crank the engine. It doesn't. It just spins like a son of a bitch and thats it. Then a few minutes later it will crank the flywheel/start the car no problem. I ran the scenario by one of my instructors and he said the same thing, not the battery probably the one-way clutch in the starter or the flywheel is chipped. So I took him to pick it up today and on a hunch tell him to meet me just down the street afterwards (if he can even get it started in the first place). He gets it started, and meets me down the street. I shut the engine off, then try and start the car: same shit. Starter spins but doesn't engage the flywheel. After several tries it engages the flywheel but the engine wont fire, after several more labored attempts the engine finally turns over and he immediately takes it back to the shop. I told him before hand that they had lied to him, the battery was never bad, they just couldn't find the problem and decided to say it was the battery so they could make a quick buck. So what to do in this situation? I told him I would go back and argue with the guy and attempt to get the bill refunded in full but that I absolutely will not trust this guy to work on the car after I more or less chew him out / expose him for fraud. My father on the other hand wants to take it back and let them work on it again, in hopes that they will find the problem and fix it for free (like they did last time). He ended up taking it back to them and they set the stage for it being some other problem (fuel pump etc). So what would you guys do? I mean would you trust someone to work on your car after they had repeatedly fucked up / lied to you and you got in there face/called them out on it? I told him the best thing to do is either be civil and let them fix the problem (at there expense) or confront them on there fraudulent/incompetent practices and demand a refund, then take his car elsewhere. Maybe im wrong?

For a buddy of mines daughter. Preferably a little four-banger, $700-$1200ish. Thanks.

B-A-DOUBLE-L Baller. I'd rock one of those anyday, looks like distant cousin of the sixteen http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadillac_Sixteen

seriously though, Im buying the wifey an Escalade or Suburban or someshit. I really do believe that 75% of all men driving a minivan hate there lives.

That or I get it and was playing like I didn't in order to troll.

them dudes stare at me all the time while hauling there bitchy wife and kids around and im like "I bet you hate your life dontcha buddy?"

And yea, it sounds badass when the engine revs up all high n shit when I come around a corner.

Brakes,Manual Trans,Turbo are all on my wish list. As is a new paint job etc. And the lex just seems to take corners much better in 2nd gear. Like little/no brakes, just riding second all the way through..Feels 10x more stable.

while I know a fair amount transmissions im far from an expert, although im sure there are some on here, hence why I asked. That And I dont care if I blow up the trans, the plan from the start was to put a manual in it. I really just want to know what damage is possibly being done (excessive heat is the only thing I can think of) and if a synthetic fluid may be a better way to go?

Been downshifting alot lately into 2nd when cornering/coming to a stop..Makes a world of difference in how the car handles. However I think i remember reading something about how doing so can possibly damage the trans somehow? Thoughts?

reinstall/update your sound card driver?

should be throwing a check engine light. Pull the codes then go from there.

Please explain what "fully harden" means. I just (spray) painted my wheels (sanded,sanded again, primered, 3 light layers of paint, 3 light layers of clear coat...look phenominal) and the clear coat said something about the paint taking 7 days to "dry"?

Wade south of O'shay/Griggs (Dam) from now till about the 2nd week in November - You should have fun. Shoot a pm if you have any questions.

Dissembled both driver and passenger switches, found the "reverse" contacts (on both sides strangely enough) black/burnt. Touched them up with a dremel sanding bit, put back together and both sides work like a charm. Funny the lexus forums said this couldn't be done

Sorry 92 lexus SC300. Seems like the master (drivers) switch is wired through the passenger switch. If so shouldn't I be able to by-pass it (pass. switch) and run the wiring from the drivers side straight to the motor?

Passenger side window was frozen when I bought the car. Just took out the motor/regulator and the motor works fine. Hooked it up to the passenger side and tried to use the (passenger side) switch and nothing...Well you can hear something engaging but the motor doesn't spin. Tried the drivers side switch and it goes UP no-problem, however it will not go down. Where to start? If the passenger side switch was bad would it interfere with the drivers side switch? If so can I just by-pass that switch somehow? And any ideas on testing the switch with a voltmeter? Still kicking myself for not taking (Automotive) Electrical last quarter...

Does the shifter "buck"/Shake when you apply the brakes? Had some issue like that when I first bought the Lexus: Applied the brakes and it pulled heavy to one side and the shifter shook almost violently. Drifted/Braked the living shit out of it and free'd up whatever was sticking.

^^ Yup. Ran a new ground "cable" to the block: Starter turned the flywheel but the engine just wouldn't fire. Ran another cable to the body (along with the one to the block) and it fires instantly. Problem fucking solved (I hope). Thanx Guize.

As opposed to leaving it grounded with jumper cables? --> Ghetto:lol: