PsychoticGaming

I second the LS swap!

 

If not find late 90's truck or van with mfi/efi to drop in? Bottom end is a SBC.

 

If you really want a 350 Im sure you can get one from Jegs/Summit/Jasper/ect.

 

I've never bought an engine new, always rebuilt them so I cannot comment on the warranty.

I like it man, that turned out real solid!

0 vehicles are the same from when I joined.

 

Still have an Fbody, may be in pieces but she's there... well mostly.... haha!

 

2 fun cars still! Wait, the one in pieces still counts right?... Hmmmm...

DD? Likely a K30, but a Porsche 917 would be killer... Just not sure even if I had that kind of money I could spend it on something like that.

So someone is planning on opening the season next year then? They always seem busy, other than the old folks across the road or MTV trying to push them out for noise issues it seems.... Nice to have a track super close by even though it's only 1/8th mile.

Pending

1973 350 with 3 speed auto. OD shows 86k (along with the title), bought a 1ton van from a friends dad and I ended up parting. Engine runs fine, didn't test the trans. Has a reman sticker on the engine, he said it had about 30k on the engine.

 

Had points in it that was bad, dropped an HEI in to test fire, then put the points back in when I pulled it. HEI dizzy can go with it.

 

$500

 

Take pics, measurements and post whats needed. OD ID thickness height ect.

 

What material (not sure who has what laying around. Abs/flexible/pla/petg/ect)?

I feel lucky here for some reason... High miles on my 07 very few issues.... (suspension replaced)

Dude!!!! Sick as always!!!! Keep it up!

Sold! Lock it up! Thanks!

*Pending P/U

Obo, open to trades

Not enough info on the engine to give you a good answer, what cam? Roller or flat? Solid or Hyd? Rings? Boost? Ect.

 

Likely you should break it in on what your builder wants and thats on him.

 

If you're enclined to go synthetic start it up on BradPenn for a flat tappet and after break in move to T6. I've done that on several engines. If its a roller I would just break it in on Valvoline dino oil and after break in move to T6.

 

If you're staying conventional just run BradPenn.

If you don't mind used check FB for one. I paid $1,000 for a used 12,000lb 4post lift that looks almost new.

LG PTAC Unit, 12000 btu heating and cooling. New last year, worked fine when removed, have central air now.

 

$400

4L80E 2wd out of an 01 Chevy Express Van ~160k on it, comes with torque converter. Going with a manual instead of an auto for this project.

 

$300 obo trade for?

Darn it! Too late on this, the 19x10's would have been nice.

I have not used HPTuners, I have had my car tuned with it previously. Currently starting another project and using LS-Droid and TunerPro (a much cheaper option), fairly new myself as I just got the cable but have done some tuning through DsmLink previously. I enjoy the challenge so figured give it a whirl but as mentioned more likely to break stuff while learning... Expensive to have someone else do it but then you know it's right, gotta pay to play or take the time to learn and hopefully get lucky.

Dang! Awesome!!!

While standing seam is more ideal most don't want the extra cost that comes with it. We've been using "Retro-Ease" over existing roofs (as long as it doesn't need torn off or new sheeting) and have had no issues from anyone. This also ads a layer under the metal to help seal while creating a gap between the existing roof and metal. Standard panel screwed down cost is comparable to shingles, standing seam is about double on most roofs.

Looking for a couple F-Body LS1 oil pans (pickup, dipstick, ect).

Man this is car looks good! If you ever feel like moving forward with mods Z51 suspension (look in salvage yards) and C6 brakes turn it into a whole different car.

Definately be keeping him in prayer! Glad to hear there is progress!

I've always done about the same as you RC K9. Run it up and let it pull down on vacuum. The rings are pretty much seated when you fire it up. Change the oil after and it is what it is. With roller cams, change in oils and metals with tighter tolerances than 80 years ago, they'll be fine.