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PsychoticGaming

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Posts posted by PsychoticGaming

  1. was the car in a front and back fender bender by chance?
    Not that I have ever been in, does not appear to have been that I have noticed when I instelled the FMIC. Front bumper cover is cracked but I have a good red one for it.
  2. 1G Auto trans/tcase/spare center diff/rear diff & axles/shifter (no cable)/tcu/spare OD clutch set, shifted fine when pulled 3yrs ago $550
  3. Sorry to bump an old thread- but Im looking to boost signal in both my finished basement and upstairs rooms. Current issues

     

    1) Work from home and use a a VOIP phone so speed is already a commodity.

     

    2) Signal is to week on far wall of basement for Smart TV to pickup signal and use Netflix for example

     

    3) Signal up stairs is too weak for similar function. **Having it strong enough to WORK in a bonus room Id like to have a computer/workstation in is a plus**

     

    4) Limited Cable outlets so moving the cable companies rented router is not a viable option

     

    I am getting a bit confused on AP vs Relay vs Router functions. Here are my questions-

     

    1) Should I just buy a great router that will fix all these issues and send the rented one back to the cable company? Or is this not the solution?

     

    2) If I want to boost a signal next to a device far from the router- do I need a RELAY device?

     

    3) What would CR do?!

    Wifi? Or do you need a cable? I run the Netgear PL1000 to my shop 200' away and works very well, Internet over powerline. Sender in the house and the receiver in the shop broadcasts wifi out but also has a port on the side of it so you can run an ethernet cable from.
  4. Runs and drives, 159k on the body, 25k on 6 bolt engine (Ross/Eagle combo, Arp mains, L19 head studs, Toga trimetals, BSE, 1mm oversized valves, dks 272, BC springs) - machining was done by M&M. FIAV/ISC delete (cold blooded), N/T TB, Punishment racing FMIC, header, 3" exhaust. Ebay b16g rebuilt, stock 450's and maf.

     

    VR4 trans, XTD stage 4 unsprung, Fidanza flywheel, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings replaced in the past couple years, manual steering. Battery relocated to the trunk and GC coilovers.

     

    Not perfect, body needs some work, drove her as a DD for 9 years and at least once a week the past year. Will need tires.

     

    $25004986856f39dbd138921071345f073fbb.jpg191da2b833f31e7031ad85fb622cac02.jpga45ad2650023d1b54fb32cbdeb039bcc.jpgb2ddabffaf6a4a0c6bc0a349007b726b.jpg05fb1d2bddb18e56e79b9d01a61dcbeb.jpg

  5. I haven't been to NL for years since my uncle use to run there. Seems as though it has alot of hate any more?.... Though I hear the new pavement is nice.

     

    Mid-Ohio I ran last year for the first time and was really nice (it's also only a 25min drive too so...) Looked at Pitt but it is a good drive too, comparable to Mid-Ohio or?

     

    Auto Interests HPDE Novice is pretty good for first time on a track and getting ti know your car. Of course you'll just end up pushing it more and more ;)

  6. I saw someone posting about HPDE and with DSMs in his sig, and had to say something about it.

     

    Hope to see you out

     

    Odds of her making it out is slim, just rebuilt a 16g and put on my 92 to get her going. Sold the red 91, may sell the 92 as I bought a 90 Galant GSX and have a forged engine on the stand to drop in (now to decide between e316g or the 70mm t4....)

     

    Odds are the PoorVette will be out on the track instead, although I wouldn't mind screaming around in the Talon at 35psi and the 70mm turbo ;)

  7. I'm starting to put together a list of events that I may or may not attend so that I can plan out my track season. I'll post stuff here once I get it all compiled.
    Thanks for for sharing!

     

    Looks like Street Car Takeover is the same day I'm planning on Nelson Ledges, figures.

  8. 1999 Dodge 1500 with a 24V Cummins swap. Engine/Trans/Tcase/Axles out of a 2002 (191k on Engine/drivetrain).

     

    Within the last 10k:

    NV4500 with SB3600 DD with upgraded input shaft and upgraded master / slave cylinders

    RV275 Injectors

    HE351CW Turbo

    Aftermarket IC Boots

    BHAF

    Boost and EGT gauges

    5" lift (springs, shocks, blocks, leaf, ect)

    U-Joints

    Front driveshaft

    Raptor 150 pump

    Water pump, hoses and thermostat

    Steering linkage (latest upgraded factory revision)

    SBB

    4" exhaust (6" tip)

    Front/Rear diff/Tcase/Trans fluid changed

    Quad ADR

    Sport headlights

    Both batteries

    Cow Catcher Bumper (Oil well pipe)

    Might be forgetting other stuff at this point

     

    Runs and drives good, shifts fine, 4x4 works as it should (CAD delete). Tires are 60% tread (315/75/16E Cooper ST/Maxx - speedo is off ~4mph). Passenger seat is a different color, drivers seat has a tear, dash is toast, aftermarket radio, headliner is falling, doors have rust, drivers rear door doesn't open (has a newer handle, linkage doesn't stay on), body is very solid (from Florida a couple years ago front fender is dented as it came that way). Flatbed is rusty.

     

    The truck isn't perfect but has always done well. I don't drive her that much, I don't need the diesel any more as nice as it is to have.

     

    $7,500 obo

     

    May consider partial trade with cash for a 4x4 3/4 ton 6.0l Suburban, 67-69 Camaro project, 68-72 Nova project.2397801c818a54be620f554d1f5a0f3c.jpgb1a1ff83720fc81ab644ce9f8b30dcc1.jpg0f2eac952f2969d9df19e732a4b0ec3b.jpg22d821be510676d0f798349bed16c858.jpg8df4a3f16db337334838ff5a5a023783.jpgb283cd49a877f86ba83a9c3be31c11e7.jpg

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