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bmwohio

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Posts posted by bmwohio

  1. Its a 2010 GMC denali. If i read correctly i can use the stock head unit, i just need some converter wires or some shit.

     

    Most modern day head units will have the pre-outs built in.....I'm assuming that a Denali will. You can probably google the answer or someone here can tell you.

     

    Pre-outs are the red/white on the right side of the pic....this is looking at the back of a head unit

     

    http://car-radio.bestproductsreview.net/wp-content/Alpine%20CDA-9887R%202.jpg

     

    Hardest part is not hooking up the wires, it's getting it run all the way to the back and hidden at the same time. Also getting the power line from the battery, through the firewall, and to the back of the vehicle. Some can do it easily, some struggle with it........

  2. Is your car pre-wired for an amp? That would be the first thing on the list. You, someone you know, or a car audio shop will need to run wiring from the car battery and the pre-outs (red and white plugs) from behind the head unit before you can do anything (ported vs unported) .

     

    What kind of 'truck' is this going in? Sub boxes will vary between one that is in an enclosed trunk or in open air. To add some bass to open air, I would go with two 10's or one 12 in a custom built box (each sub will have different specs for the best box that will put out the best bass.

     

    When you are looking at amps and subs, look for the 'RMS' rating, not just the peak power for amps and subs. One amp may have 500 peak power amps, but an RMS rating of only 100. The RMS is basically the 'usable' 'good' wattage for the amp or subs.

     

    From there, match up your amp with your RMS rating on the sub(to keep from blowing it). Typically you don't want the RMS rating on the amp to exceed the RMS rating for the sub(this would equal a blown sub).

     

    My old set-up I was running a Presicion Power Powerclass 650 amp. It was 6x50 (ran my mids, highs, and subs with this) watt amp and I bridged it for the two subs and was pushing 200 watts(about 150 RMS) per speaker on 2 JL Audio 12" subs in a custom built ported box to match the specs of the subs for some DEEP bass :D .

     

    I am a fan of JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker Comp, Infinity......

     

    Go here--> http://www.crutchfield.com/?evar16=Header:Logo they are very good with 'beginners' and there is a lot of good info here on building a car stereo....they also sell books and things to DIY.

     

    Hope that helps....good luck!

  3. Changed the electronics world in my eyes. Had an iPhone since the 1st gen.....he will truly be missed by many.

     

    RIP Steve Jobs....

     

     

    Jobs......like a bauce....

     

    http://hphotos-iad1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/314453_228153220572811_122459394475528_578054_255444391_n.jpg

  4. Z3 is a hybrid e30/e36 with some unique parts thrown in.

    - Interior quality is pretty poor with sagging glove box, seat slider problems and overall cheap feel.

    - be prepared for lots of wind/drivetrain/road noise

    - rear suspension is semi trailing arm like the e30, it can be fun with proper sport shocks/springs but it's a little primitive.

    - engine options are wide open, every e36 and e46 engine can be had.

    - work access under the hood is awesome

     

    Z4's really are an enormous leap forward in every way but the price reflects that.

     

    OP,

    the Z3 is an E36...It has E36 powertrain (engines and transmission)

     

    there are 1.9L 4cyl and 2.8L and 6cyl in 2.5L badged 2 and 3.0L and 3.2L (in the M models) The 98-00 M Coupes and Roadsters have the E36 M3 engine (S52B32) but the 01-02, of which there are 694 made, have the E46 M3 S54B32 with 316hp

    ....

     

    They have E36 3 series front suspension and E30 3 series rear suspension (outdated design).

     

    The roadster Z3 are a dime a dozen but they also made non-M coupes, exactly 1000 of them so they are extremely rare.....The M Coupes and M roadsters are pretty sweet.

     

    Z4 is a better car for sure..

     

    here's a Z4M for ~16k with 132k miles...... It has the S54 motor with close to 100hp/L...it needs valves checked and adjusted every 50-60k miles but it's really a superb car. Parts are pretty expensive though. On the Z4M, the S54 made the full 333hp because they fixed the rod bearing issues the early S54 had...on the 01-02 Z3Mm the S54 made that 316 because they limited the revs to 7600RPM

    they made only 1815 Z4M

     

    http://www.prestigeeurocars.com/newandusedcars/0/1113670/e74d18d7-9328-4d96-9c0c-947dfae9a256/none/2006-BMW-Z4M-Columbus-OH-43212.aspx

     

     

     

    I love the way the Z3 M coupe looks but I loathe the inferior rear suspension from the E30

     

     

    These two men are fucking knuckleheads, but know exactly what they're talking about, unfortunately :dumb:

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