SloSVTruck

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/419d40336e4fd1703df45dd2ce59fad1.jpg Its more than likely something like above, at least thats what we used to install for our multifamily buildings. Under the little black tab id a breaker, they should have labeled each one for the unit numbers, sometimes the numbers are under the lids. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

So thats the panel you are trying to shut off??? More than likely the main breaker is at the end of the building on a meter pack (a bank of meters for all the units) your number should be on one of the breakers. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Explain this to me a little more...... your in a condo right? It has a detached garage that goes with this condo? And the garage has its own electrical panel in it? Is there multiple garages attached to yours or is it stand alone? Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

This, i purchased one of the pump type pesticide sprayers from lowes then bought some pipe fittings to screw into the oil pressure sensor on my ford modular. Put a quart or two in the sprayer pump the hell out of it till it almost won't pump anymore and pull the trigger on the sprayer. It primed my motor perfectly pumped oil all the way up the heads to the cams and everywhere give it a couple minutes to make it everywhere it may seem like its not working but just keep pumping and spraying it will make it where it needs to. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Speedway on east broad And waggoner rd, normally once they hit 85% it stays there or above till september/october. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/1fd6c0d288e213d1ff4b260b64fce600.jpg Got my race gas for friday just a bit above 85%. Clean the truck up a bit and put the tires on it and should be ready to go. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Hey man, i was really thinking about swooping yours up..... but its a bit big for my taste when it comes to logging/tuning. Hell of a deal for sure!!!! Maybe you'll find someone who likes/can handle the bigger laptop [emoji23] bahahahahahah good luck!!! Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Ive been using an older compaq nc8430 pc for a while..... its been ok and i picked it up pretty cheap off craigslist. But after adding more ram(4gb) and installing a new battery and having to get a new charger i wish i would have got something newer and better from the get go. Battery life even with the new battery sucks and the charger acts kind of goofy in the car which might be just an issue with low rpm voltage.... Anyways i bit the bullet and purchased a newer lenovo t430 thinkpad off ebay last night for 215$, has quad core processor, 4gb ram 120gb ssd, windows 7pro, and comes with a charger. Only issue guy said is the battery is pretty crappy which is fine ill throw a new extended battery in it for 70$ and get hopefully 5 hours on battery out of it. We use these same laptops at work and ive been pretty impressed with them so far and the price was right for me going through ebay. Me personally im not sure i would want any operating system past windows 7 as it seems like some tuning software and logging software doesnt like to play nice with windows 8/10. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I have an 99 astro van i use for my electrical work. It does ok and like said the 4.3 is pretty bulletproof. Although i can't say the same for chevys ignition system on the vans from say 95-02....... Not sure if its the way the distributor is designed or what.... but if you go somewhere and it rains or snows overnight make sure you have a hair dryer with you to warm the cap up on the distributor. They are super prone to getting moisture under them and not starting the next morning. And yea AWD astros can be had for pretty cheap. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I feel like i hit the lottery kind of..... just put my yearly vacation form in couple weeks ago and had this day scheduled off for the nhra drags. Now the cr event is on the same day!?!?!? WINNNNNNNNINNNGGG!

Hmmmmm whats the reason you cant run it through a home theatre????? Can easily be done.... if your reciever has HDMI inputs.... or run the sound output on your tv to your reciever then just plug it into your tv????? Buffering can be a pain sometimes..... its the servers you download froms problem not your nets. Try the phoenix app.... it seems to work pretty good most of the time for me.

Yea as long as there is a disconnect outside of the house you can run 1000' of wire inside the house if you wanted/needed. Just make sure the hole is big enough to give the wire a little room on all sides then whatever caulking you want really, ive used spray foam, silicone, what we call duct seal. Its all about the same really..... i would maybe caulk all around it on the outside with a matching waterproof/color you like then go inside and shoot a bit of sprayfoam all around it. Make sure to leave a small swag/tension loop at the bottom before it goes in thw house.... dont just pull it straight and tight there are rules on bending radius. As far as the conduit thing.... biggest issue with that is the cost will go up quite a bit. You could pipe it fully to the panel then you pull in regular thhn wire. You are right you cant run the SER inside conduit..... it becomes a raceway inside a raceway which is against code and could cause heat issues. So.... either conduit all the way or you set a junction box and switch from thhn back to SER.... if thats what you really want to do. For simplicity/cost SER all the way is the best. You should be able to go to loeb no problem.... but just because its an electrical supply house doesn't necessarily mean they know what they are talking about.... most are just salesmen lol.

Ok now i see the picture better.... can you not just come out of the bottom of the disconnect/meter and go straight into the house underneath it? Then run the wire inside the house so u avoid the window all together??? And yes you are right about the wiring, all the neutrals/grounds will go on that neutral bar. As far as a water proof connector its not really needed.....i typically just use a standard connector for the wire. The wire comes out of the bottom of the panel if water somehow manges to get inside that way you have way bigger issues.... What kind of sill plate are u looking for??? Normally just drill a hole and run the wire inside then caulk/seal the hole. Home depot/lowes should have everything needed..... actually i will take that back.... they will have everything except for the 4/0 SER cable.... menards or loeb will have that though. You could also pipe it inside if you are going for a cleaner look..... totally up to you.

You must have really done some good research on all of this. I've never actually seen those type of panels its a pretty nice setup really if your going the large manual transfer route. Most of the setups i install are all automatic. Yes you are fine doing the two main breaker deal.... you just need to make sure you use the correct wiring and have it grounded/bonded properly. Since the breaker outside will be the first means of disconnect you will only have 3 wires coming from the meter to that breaker. 2 hots and a neutral, then from there you will run 4/0 SER cable into the house to the reliance panel which you will not install the green bonding screw and will have to have 2 seperate bars 1 for the grounds and 1 for the neutrals. You will run a ground rod outside by the meter and then run a #4 copper wire into the meter/breaker combo and bond it all there. The 3 foot deal is just as you said.... 3 foot away from the open window... i really thought it applied more to overhead exposed wiring but i would have to double check the codes. As far as height..... you should be fine as long as the center of the breaker is no higher than 6' from ground level. Your picture isnt working on my phone [emoji53]

Yea i was doing some math on that after i posted, wish i knew what the place was really worth now..... may have to do an appraisal at some point. Plan to stay for a while i think, my interest rate is at 3.75% right now im pretty sure.... which is good for the 203k loan. Just hate paying that stupid pmi. If it was worth 160k thatd be 20% and i would be good. But im not sure it would value that high....

Hmmmmm i may have to get in touch with you, i purchased a house in april with a 203k loan and am paying PMI on my loan.... At some point i want to refinance to get rid of it.... my total loan is 128k, but the work we did to the place im thinking it should be worth around 140-150k now.... hoping that would be able to get rid of any PMI i am paying. At the same time i thought someone had told me i have to keep the loan for at least a year before i try to do anything with it???

Ah this was your car? Runs good for sure. Mind saying any track times or mods you have??

Roll racing at 70mph dont need big tires [emoji1]

This is who i had do my 5.4 ford modular for me. Was highly recommended by my builder. He was talking to me about some LS motors he has done or was doing so i would gueas that wouldn't be an issue. Only issue may be the timeline, he stays pretty busy and is mostly a 1 man show. But any good machine shop is going to be like that i guess? Price was very reasonable too.

Ah ok, thanks for the info! Yea it seemed to run pretty good!!

Hey everyone, was crusing around 270 today and came across a black pontiac g8 looked like it had the mufflers deleted younger looking guy driving. License plate "slw4dr" We proceeded to have a little fun when traffic cleared a bit. Curious if this is anyone on here or if anyone knows the car??? What mods it has. The small pull we did it was pretty even, looked like i started pulling away up top maybe.... Gave each other a thumbs up and went our seperate ways.

Ah ok, that's good. Pretty sure I ran into the same issue having to get some 90s and stuff. I just checked summit and yea that is odd they don't stock that size in ptfe... Guess that shoots that suggestion.

I just did the fuel system for my lightning not long ago. Ended up going with all PTFE line and fittings. Got all the stuff through summit, used summit line and summit fittings and they worked great and went together easy. Normally if I order stuff from summit that's in stock it's here next day.... They are in Ohio after all. I've heard of people using the normal hose and like you was saying some have had issues with the injectors getting clogged up with gunk or else fuel smell seeping through the line. I would sit down and actually draw out the whole system so you have a better idea of what all you will actually need when it comes to getting your parts. Get a decent set of injectors and fuel filter to go with your system too. 10 micron filter is what I'm using for my E85 setup.

Hmmmm my counter argument would be having the right tools to do your job and not run the risk of having something go down that you didn't intend too.... Not sure what the big issue on liability would be..... The data center I work in has there own thermal camera. Not sure exactly how often they do take pictures of the cabinets maybe every 3-4 months. But as long as you took the pictures documented it and fixed the issues you found.... I don't see a huge liability issue more of a better proactive thought process. We only use high-voltage maintenance on our big breakers that have to be racked in and cost 30k+ per breaker..... The small 208/240 volt stuff we take care of/change out. Even the smaller PDP's that are 480v we will change breakers and fix things. If you have to rent something and home depot has the cameras that sounds like the best bet.

Is it not on a backup or dual Fed with geist strips?? Most expensive data equipment has some sort of alternative power to hold it for a little while. Quite a few companies around that will scan it for you and change the breaker also. If your changing breakers and stuff like that I'm surprised the company hasn't already purchased this sort of equipment. Normally when it comes to IT sorts of work money is of no object. Least in the data center I work in lol.