vonrottes

That's how mine started. not sure how many miles I put on it since I got the engine back in. but it went from just an annoying sound at idle, which some people tried to tell me was a crank bearing or piston slap and what I just thought was shitty lifters on #8 Then it started this shit after some....Aggressive driving on Saturday.. I'll update the thread either tomorrow or Wednesday when I get the transmission separated from the engine. Hopefully the cause will be pretty obvious when I get it pulled apart.

The sound stayed pretty consistent until Saturday when it started this. Either way trans needs to come out, so Im just going to put a stock torque converter in it for now and a new flexplate while it out. Hopefully that fixes it. Finding info on failing torque converters is a pita most people just say it's a flexplate, which I'm not doubting. But the fact I can make the knocking stop by increasing the line pressure is weird...unless it's the transmission itself

Update trying to diagnose before pulling it apart. With the rear off the ground idling command a TCC lock it knocks, if I set absolute FC currant to say 800mv it does not knock idling in gear no load, but any throttle input it knocks. While driving TCC locks like it should with less than 2rpm slip So I am assuming this is an issue in the torque converter?

Got the hard shifting issues fixed, ended up being MY fault for using higher than stock shift pressure with an HD2 kit. saw something about it in a forum while looking up a pending code. But not I've got a much more troubling issue.. Clattering/knocking What I originally thought was just lifter noise has turned into more of a clatter than a knock yesterday. goes away around 1,500-2,000rpm in neutral gets worse in gear and when you run it up in gear holding the brake. and the newest most bothersome noise... Between shifts and on decel when the TC is locked it sounds like a jake brake.. If I apply the brake enough to unlock the TC and decel there is no weird noise.. I'm leaning towards a cracked flexplate, but considering it may be an issue with the torque converter itself. I tried to visually inspect it through the holes in the bellhousing but could not see any cracks but was very limited in what I could actually see. Checked the TC bolts and they are all tight, also used a large screwdriver to gently pry against the flexplate couldn't hear any creaking which is why I'm also considering the TC. Just wanted to see if anyone else has had an issue like this before I go and pull the transmission out.. Transmission is a 4l60e out of a 2000 Silverado 1500. flexplate and torque converter are from the same truck.

15 years ago? 2004?? god. I was a Ricer, I thought the EK hatch was the best car EVAH. 240sx was a dream car.... and I'm pretty sure I wanted to do an Ebay turbo before they were cool... Now I just drive some piece of shit truck and aspire to have a modest V8 sedan...

Right so I will look into a vacuum leak, I know I did have one early after I put this engine in the truck....actually forgot to hook up the PCV. But that was showing all kinds of whack readings in the fuel trims and MAP. Yesterday Warm in drive it was reading 38kpa, and 41kpa cruising at 50mph 14% tps and 100% tps is showing 95kpa. All the sensors are original to a 2004 LM7 except the TPS which I replaced a few years ago. so it may very well be the MAP, I think I have a spare around here somewhere I can see if it gets the same readings... Again I'll also check for vacuum leaks, maybe I forgot to tighten down some intake bolts.. And any help is greatly appreciated, everywhere else I ask any question I seriously just get spammed with "4l80 swap it" if it will help any Google Drive downloads for the tune and log. Tune Log ~ happens at 13:08-13:10

I sure did. it happened at the 2-3 shift. load was at 74% current was .23 shift happened RPM dropped from 4,400 to 3,100, engine load dropped to 59% current dropped to 0.08 after about 3 seconds it dropped to 0.00 MAF went from 23 lb/min to 16.67 and MAP went from 85kpa to 92kpa TPS steady at 57% trans temp was to 100F I can upload both the log and tune file if that would be more help.

Okay, Finally got it to do it while logging.. When it happens the force current motor shuts off. 0 Ma.

Cool, I'll do that this weekend. Hopefully it's something simple. Since I just did the hd2, separator and a sonnax accumulator

Nope, no code. I'll double check to make sure I have all the diagnostic codes enabled in the tune. It is still a MAF tune and from what I can tell the MAF is ok, doesn't really have any other issues other than this. Not sure what the load calculation would be.

Ask around on other places and only got 4l60e memes... 2000 LS 2wd 4l60e installed a HD2 shift kit following instructions for street/performance while it was apart I also put in a trans-go separator plate to fix the check ball. Followed instruction for V8 applications. Now here is the weird issue... sometimes when it kicks down under hard acceleration, or if I rev the engine in park or neutral it will start shifting REALLY hard 1-2 feels axle hop and the 3-4 is really hard, off throttle up shift only. as well as shifting from park and reverse. it does not affect the shift points, or TCC. if I manually downshift before hitting the throttle it's just fine. The only way to get it to start shifting normal again is the kill the engine with it in park and restart... restarting in neutral works sometimes but not always. as far as the tune goes, I've dropped shift pressures, increased shift times, turned torque management back on and lowered the pressure modifiers.. Also seems to happen more often when it's cold outside.

Uh... 1992 Chevy S10 1996 Kawasaki VN1500C 1992 GMC Sonoma GT Yeah I'm Trash and spend too much money on junk instead of buying at least one nice vehicle.

But Y Cyborg only sold for like $40k... I couldn't even get 12.5 for my junk :|

Yoooo can I run my pos[emoji23] Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I'd be down for some straight line events... fast turns in a truck sounds terrible.... If someone were to get together dyno events that'd be dope too.. I only made it to one a few years ago at QSL but the crap box wasn't ready to run.

Soooo, I didn't take any pictures of the last "mod" I did...and a lot of people will probably judge me for the product I used.. But meh. applied two rolls of Frost king Butyl foam insulation to the truck. did the floor pans, doors, rear of the cab, Door panels, HVAC ducts, Kick panels and the "B pillars"? Still plan on getting some thicker Jute insulation for the floor... But overall for $40 I'm incredibly happy with the noise dampening in the cab. No longer does it would like the exhaust it running through the floor, driving no longer sounds like the windows/doors are cracked open, and the cab actually stays warm longer than about 5 minutes after you turn it off.... and the BIG plus is no more crazy rattle sounds going over bumps! before what sounded like a coffee can being smacked is all gone! as well as the "crushed soda can" sound when closing the doors, it's now a satisfying "thud" I knew sound dampening material would make a difference but holy crap I honestly was NOT expecting much from $20 crap from lowe's.. While lining the "b pillar" on the passenger side I also found the striker pin had bent the sheet metal inward, making it difficult to get the door to latch without slamming it shut. unbolted it and a few tabs with a hammer straightened it right up, the backing plate now sits flush on the sheet metal like the driver side. And some of the most recent pictures of the hoopty. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Get the A/C working in the Sonoma and...uh....Make it to LS fest and Carlisle truck nationals.

[emoji2369] did I miss something, is this normal? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Something I've noticed recently is a nasty looking residue on the cladding around the tailpipe, it's dark brown/tan in color, I can scrub it off with a rag and water. The inside of the pipe is dry soot black. It's on my Sonoma with a 5.3, no cats, turbo muffler, 3" exhaust all the way back, no cel, no noticeable issues running. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Shots of my junk someone else took. Got new tires today, just some cheap 215/65 sumitomos until I figure what wheel/tire combo I want to go with.. Got a new tune on it with some VE adjustments and it's still running really good.. still having some minor issues with the hydroboost, thinking maybe the accumulator is gummed up.. And looking at getting a second battery tray for under the hood so I can pass tech Friday, wiring up a switch sounds annoying, the only reason I moved the battery is because it didn't clear the AC which isn't currently installed.. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Okay, Wasn't sure because I found some people saying it's not required for "street" cars. But da'rulez do say "all" sooooo guess I'll throw a cut off on it Friday morning. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

So I'm trying to go out to ntr this Friday and I have my battery relocated under the bed of the truck using ⅜" all thread and the factory tray/retainer. I'm just curious is this will pass tech and if I will need a master kill switch? I'll be entered in sportsman not running faster than a 13.5. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Oops. I didn't take any pictures of my hoopty, but I found some big brothers Saturday in Medina. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Rebuilt the hydroboost, no scoring on hard parts but looks like it was being run on old engine oil, everything inside was caked in sludge. Replaced orings and valves.. still having min or issues, think the accumulator may be full of sludge as well. But it's survived going to Dayton last weekend, and up to Medina this weekend. Runs great, still need to work out the tune, I don't think I've changed any of the airflow stuff since switching to the bbk intake. Something hydralic is whining not sure is it's the power steering pump or transmission. As it happens in all gears, and goes with engine speed does seem to get louder while turning. But idk. But I'm going to get tires this week and I'm gonna TRY to run it down the track Friday at trails if I can skirt by tech with 14" of rubber fuel line and no battery cut off switch.. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Yeah I've got some cleaning up to do...still need to get my dad to wet sand/buff the paint.... figure out some misalignment with the body parts.......and hunt down a bed that the braces aren't rusted out. But it's driving and I don't have to bum around in my dad's truck anymore.