vonrottes

Going g to jegs in the morning to get exhaust clamps, then gonna fill it up and go on an actual test drive to ensure the brakes, transmission a d everything are in working order.. then Saturday see you guys at the Lennox. Installed my old back glass and a new seal, and while trying to put in the new windshield trim/seal I accidentally cracked the glass sooooo, I need to get that taken care of. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Nick's truck looks incredible, but the next upgrade for me is ctsv brembos.iirc that requires a 18" minimum I personally kinda like the parallax, most other split spokes have a huge center which I just don't like.. seen a lot of guys running the iroc replicas and I think those are ugly as sin with the raised center and blockly paint. The only others I might consider right now would be Camaro steelies, they have the factory style, but I could still use a modern UHP tire. It's the factory gm wa-8798 argent grey.

Thanks 👍 Yeah, I was able to keep two of the 19x8.5 Verde parallax wheels I had on the s10 after it was stolen.. so I'll probably just buy two new wheels/tires and use those once I put an 8.8 under it again... Until then I'm just going to run the stock wheels and some new stock size tires.

Annnnnd done ... Sorta. Gotta finish mounting the headlights, mount the rear bumper, line up the bed, insall the license plate lights, get clamps for the exhaust, and put on the windshield weather stripping. As far as drivability it will be done. Then it's just little stuff.. Get ready to see her at cc&c this weekend! Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Once I get new band clamps and seal off the leaks I should be able to better diagnos the sound, but it goes away around 2k. It's a 2004 truck block so, I'll just run it and keep an eye out for a good 2005 or newer 5.3.. the old 4.8 I had lasted me 10k with a loud bottom end knock. But With no visible metal in the oil or filter I'm not SUPER worried about it. In other news though, the grey stuff is getting painted finally. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Had an issue with the AC bracket tensioner, so it's temporarily removed with the old ls1 tensioner. Nbd since the AC isn't set up yet. Hooked the fan controller up to the pcm, so it works again. Changed the oil with 5w30 conventional And ran half a can of seafoam through it, lots of smoke after a "hot soak" and the knocking sounds isn't gone but has quietened down a lot. Need to get at least two new band clamps since the jegs brand that I've always used have all ripped. Dad is supposed to get all the cladding painted Friday.. so as soon as that's done... She'll be drivable again. With little things needing to be done like the ignition switch, installing the cruise and little stuff that won't effect me driving it daily again other than tires......the ones on it look like ass.

It's kind of a hollow, somewhat like a diesel engine idling. I dunno, I'm just fairly certain it's not a spun bearing, the amount of metal in the oil was nothing concerning, so I'm just going to change the oil run some seafoam through the engine and check the header flange doesn't have a leak. I know for sure I have several leaks at the clamps and 2-3 leaky welds.

Still making progress...slowly.. got a few more minutes or "elected" things I need to do, but for the most part she's done just waiting on the paint to get finished. Got the back brakes done, driver door put back together after hunting down a OEwindow channel. And drained the oil trying to figure out what the hell the new knock is. No metal in the oil, doesn't change with temp, goes away around 2k and is not louder under the truck.. I'm thinking piston slap or carbon? Could also Be an exhaust leak. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Not a huge update but... hoping to have it semi back on the street this weekend.. Paint is almost done, and it's just putting it all back together. Still waiting on the grey to get done on the cladding and body... which I was told will get done next weekend.. Waiting on clips for the door panels, and a T fitting for the coolant crossover. Trying to get the hood and fenders on monday..

If I get the Sgt back together I might stop by

The idiots that buy older hayabusas because busas then ride around with a flat bill, shorts, and J's or flip-flops 😅

everything is starting to go back together... interior is done, with bed liner on the floor pans and brand new carpet with mass backing. Engine is done, exhaust is done (save for some leaks at the clamps), battery tray is complete, wiring is all done, cruise control is wired.. the only things I have left to do are lock cylinders, brakes, door handles and a T fitting for the coolant crossover tubes. Bonus exhaust clip. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk0tLkOA18a/ full 3" exhaust that was bought as a muffler back kit for the original 4.3

TL;DR. Squids feeling over confident on a bike they shouldn't even be on.

Crappy pics... Didn't clean anything up, didn't edit. Still need to chop off the excess all thread on the battery tray, fix some alignment issues with the exhaust and figure out why the hell none of the new band clamps are sealing, I can put an old one on and it seals just fine, it's like the last batch I bought are just slightly under 3" I was able to get a little bit of welding done today after work, got the tailpipe done up... had to add 5" off the back of the muffler and remove about the same from the actual tail pipe to the pipe over the axle. and the Ghetto little shims I made for the cab mounts are welded in. need to add paint. Once I get the mounts bolted down, I'll patch over the holes in the floor with fiberglass, get something coating the floor pans and put the interior back together. Since I have to redo the A/C system, is there a CR member that does Automotive A/C? Gonna be a lot cooler than the old hoopty ass S10 was lol Really hoping to make at least a couple shows/meets this year in it.. CC&C obviously but I'm also trying to hit LS fest in september if I don't go full sy/ty status and break it before then. I'll get around to getting the underside of the truck coated with...something later this year... right now I'm throwing all my money at it just trying to get it back on the road... Just from what I've seen with the eastwood rubberized undercoating that I used on the front portion of the frame... it seems really nice so long as you don't get fuel or oil on it.. trying to sand it off for ground wires proved to be a PITA, very abrasion resistant... ended up using a scuff pad with a little bit of gas on it... iirc it's a rust encapsulator/convertor as well and where I "wiped" it off had clean bare metal, which I did no prep other than washing it before applying it. so I might just order a gallon or two of it and slop it on the whole under side of the truck.

Messed around and hooked up a few grounds, did a "system" check... found I had the speedo wire hooked up to the wrong wire in the truck, ran the transmission through all the gears which seems fine... tried troubleshooting the hydroboost which has a soft pedal at idle with a slow return, while engine is off it's firm and springs back like normal.. so that weird.. Got the battery mount finished with some square aluminum tubing. I did also get a new master cylinder installed. And lastly I drilled holes in the cab mount "washers" I made, just need to weld them on. Over the weekend my dad has promised to get the front clip under paint. and I'm going to work on getting the floor of the cab refinished and getting the interior back together.

was not able to do much of anything over the weekend after injuring my back at work again, leaving with one arm essentially. Although I was able to get the the heater hoses installed, the shifter cable complete with "custom" bracket, bleed the power steering system and the Hydroboost seems to function properly, did a little more wiring and got the cruise wired up, got the new fans mounted, and hooked up a ghetto double steam crossover using two Truck crossover T'd together with a bit of hose.. So honestly all that needs to happen is getting paint done, put the interior back together, get a new master cylinder (I'm really lazy), the body mount stuff... And then it's just the little stuff that I forgot I had bought like all new lock cylinders, door handles, new brake pads/shoes, seals...and once the front is back together I have a hood strut kit to install She's just sitting waiting...

Got a new battery mount made Going to get some tubing to put over the all thread and a 3rd nut to tighten those up to the crossmember, and then tighten the nuts up under the tray to the pipes so the battery isn't pressed against the crossmember. and the new distribution block I'll be mounting to the fender well... using the factory starter wire which I need to put a new terminal on, and a new 4ga wire to the alt. And the "new" exhaust It's not perfect, but it doesn't leak and slides right in to place.. still need to adjust the tailpipe since I changed the angle everything when I twisted the muffler on it's side... using a premade 3" to 3" Y made the muffler hit the frame or the driveshaft if I left it flat.. Did a test start up to make sure there weren't any major leaks and it sounds really good... a little quieter at idle than the old dual 2½" on the old truck and a lot angrier as it revs up. inb4: Yes I know the power wire shouldn't be zip tied, I've got new P-clamps and grommets coming to mount it to the frame correctly.. same for the trans cooler and fuel lines... Which I still need to figure out how I'm going to mount the fuel filter under the hood... HOPEFULLY this weekend I'll be able to take it for a test drive...Kinda scared the new poly trans mount is going to vibrate like a MF.

getting there.. torque converter is bolted in, pan has 5qts of fluid in it *so needs more* and obviously the cooler lines are tight.. wiring just needs to be wrapped and strapped down.. Next times on the to do list are the exhaust, brakes, and mounting the battery where the spare tire is supposed to go.

Getting closer to being done on the mechanical part of things... still waiting on paint work.. All that's left to do is bolt on the torque converter, mount the headers, make the y-pipe, tighten up the lines and work out mounting some other stuff..

Progress is being made! Don't mind the hole in the floor.. But in other news. It's white primer, not a top coat. after work throughout the week I'm going to get the wiring done/tested and then this weekend I'll get the transmission in, hook up the exhaust and hopefully get it started up and moving... THE EXCITEMENT of having my baby back on the street is unreal.... Nearly a year driving around with the pathetic V6 I'm so ready to have the LS back....also not creating a smokescreen at start up and idling at stop lights is a huge plus..

Honestly going from a 2.8 to a 4.3 is about like going from a 2.8 to a 5.0/5.7 not much swaps over. If he would want to do the 4.3 it's just sitting in my garage taking up room. Would definitely need to be gone through to figure why it's burning oil, but still runs strong so I doubt it would be anything to serious. Only thing I can not included with it is the Engine wiring harness...

Are we talking same S-series truck or the S-chassis nissan? Auto correct, V8. not video.

6.0 has more power to start but usually cost way too much imo. 2005-2007 5.3 is where it's at, they had the Gen 4 rods/pistons and are still super cheap. Like $500 after core. As for a vehicle I'd look into something that came with a video factory... S-series are cheap and the parts are there but it gets expensive quick.

More pictures. Over the week I started pull the front end apart after work everyday. then Yesterday got the engine ripped out. Today we're gonna try to degrease everything and get it ready for paint so I can reassemble the front end. The A/C system came out as a whole and it currently sitting in the bed of the truck.. so hopefully that works out. Decided I'm going to run all the pcm outputs directly into the bulkhead plug so I shouldn't have to mess with any of the wiring in the dash..

1992 Sonoma gt 4.3 v6 and 700r4/4l60 transmission. Pulled from a running truck, has 15x,XXX miles of which I've put roughly 10,000 on it since July 2017. Engine runs stong, does not have any weird noises although it does burn a slight bit of oil at idle and start up, I believe it is the valve stem seals.. just changed plugs, wires, cap/rotor in late last year. To my knowledge there is nothing special about the Sonoma gt 4.3 other than it was the first year for the CPI vortec. Transmission shifts great, doesn't have any issues as far as I can tell. Torque converter locks up just fine. Engine will come complete with alternator, water pump, ecu, airbox, oil cooler lines, manifolds, ypipe, etc..pretty much everything except the AC compressor. Engine/trans will be separated for removal but would like to sell together as I don't need/want either of them.. Available for pick up Saturday May 12th I leave town may 14th. I'll get pictures when I get home. $300 obo