DTM Brian

Very impressive numbers indeed.

You should see the gear I have now. I am bullet proof. lol

A few of us are going to Wayne National forrest to ride Saturday. Was wanting to know if anyone else wants to go. I have been dynoing every weekened for the last couple of months and I am in need of a break from car crap. Besides, I am waiting on a balancer for my turbo car. Reply to this thread if you want to follow us down.

About 2 years ago, A guy in Super Street Outlaw did a wheelie and ended up flipping the car over. That is when the class was running low 8's They are now running deep in the 7's on a 10.5 inch tire.

Anytime Yep the whole family including my sister has a mustang. My sisters car is torn apart. It is a coupe with ported twisted wedge heads and a ATI procharger. Brian's 88 GT, 95 Cobra, 86 GT Howard's 93 LX coupe, 91 LX Hatch Carolyn's 04 GT

I think the selling point was the 6,000 of sticker. It is a very nice car for 20,000.00 I am sure the 05 will be a nice car when they come out.

I about shit when she told the salesman she wanted to start the paperwork on it

Went with my parents today to look for a new car for my mom. She started out sitting in Focus's and ended up leaving in a 04 GT. Car is a dark charcol grey with black leather interior. This car will probably never go over 2,000 rpms or 60 mph. That is until I sneak it away from her and put it on the dyno. graemlins/burnout.gif

Greetings from the campus of Florida State University. Me and Stolen 5.0 are here with the dyno. The place is crawling with pretty women. Actually, it is only about 10 degrees warmer here then columbus. Talk to you all later.

Thanks for link. I am checking it out now.

I was wondering what would be software would be good to purchase for this SCT tuning software that I have for Fords. I have had the software since the fall of last year and now that I am in my new building, I am ready to start burning chips. I know the LS1 guys use Auto Tap. Anything like this for ford?

I dont know if you are needing the load control that a mustang dyno has. If you are not in need of the load control. My rates are as follows $65.00 bucks three pulls $85.00 bucks w/ wideband and/or boost sensor. Small tuning adjustments can be made. Hourly rate is $100.00 an hour which includes wideband and ,if needed, boost sensor. Unfortnately, I can not load the drums and measure horsepower at the same time. I can load the drums and monitor air/fuel live if you are wanting to do part throttle tuning. I am told that the eddy brake is under devlopment for Dyno Jet. However, if load control and measuring power is what you need, go with the mustang dyno

Rob, I am still using stock heads. I agree that those small exhaust ports can not be helping the situation. However, based on the fuel that I have available, I dont see how I could be getting 175 horsepower worth of nitrous if I am getting rich air/fuel ratios and I am only running 70psi of pressure.

For the last two years, I have been testing NOS's 05115 dry kit on one primered 86gt. I have concluded that these kits are way overated. NOS claims there dry kit will do 175 flywheel horsepower. I disagree. The most rwhp I have found with this kit is 90 rwhp. The final numbers on the mustang were 322 horsepower and 460 torque. Motor numbers are 230-240 horsepower and 280-290 torque. Here are gains I found which each jetting. NOS 75 shot--->A 50 horse increase at the tires NOS 100 shot---> 60 horsepower gain NOS 125 shot---> 75 horsepower gain NOS 150 shot---> 80 horsepower gain NOS 175+shot---> 90 horsepower gain. RE: 175 shot. A nozzle capable of flowing 400 horsepower and a jet rated for 275 horsepower was used in the 90 rwhp gain. However the stock solenoids and lines that come with the kit were used. Finally Air/Fuel on all these runs were in the 11:1 to 12:1 range. NOS uses fuel pressure to add the additional fuel needed with the nitrous. There is NO control of the pulsewidth of the injectors. Fuel goes from 40 psi to about 60 psi depending on the fuel jetting and with out the shim in the nitrous regulator. With the shim in the regulator will go to about 80 psi, again depending on the fuel jetting. When doubling fuel pressure from 40 psi to 80 psi, you gain a 41% percent in fuel volume. So keeping the pulsewidth a constant. The most horsepower that you could jet a stock mustang safely is about 100 rwhp. Too bad I could not take NOS to court for false claims of their product.

After running around with this turbo kit for 4 years at 500+ RWHP. I am wondering how pratical 600 is. This is the first year that I have really played with the boost at all. I have found that it pulls 500 consistently at 10 psi and 550 with 600 foot pounds of torque at 12psi. So with every pound of boost, I get about 25 horsepower to the tires. There are some other options to increase power before raising boost that I am considering. At 550 RWHP, I am still running 2 1/2 inch exhaust. At 580 rwhp with 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Incon suggests that going to a 3 inch exhaust will pull 610 RWHP at the same boost level. As far as intakes go, Switching from a cobra "cork" intake to a Holley System Max will also pick up 30 RWHP at any boost level. I am currently running 36 pound injectors which is, according to incon, 540 RWHP. So I need to upgrade injectors to 42 pounders which I already have. I should probably consider a fuel system which I want it to be good for at least 1000 horsepower when I build a new motor. So my question is this, If Vortech Combos are making between 500-550 RWHP on a stock shortblock before failing, Can I go 600? First off I am not using 100 crank horsepower to spin the blower. Secondly, I am only spinning my motor to 5400 rpms to make peak power. Generally you will spin a blower car to 6000 to make the same power. I know that it takes about 14-15 pounds of boost with a S trim to make as much power as I am at 10 psi. The blower motor has to work harder then my turbo setup for the same power. So is 600 rwhp on good gas possible with an intake, exhaust and 12-13 pounds of boost?

How much Horsepower do you want to make?

Looks like CR needs another dyno day. graemlins/thumb.gif

From my experience with small motors and spray. I would go with a Zex. HOWEVER , With a "Zex 50 shot", I would expect a 30 horsepower increase at the wheels. With a 75 shot, somewhere near a 50 hp increase PROVIDING there is enough fuel there to be burn with the increase oxygen content from Nitrous. I dont normally come on here solicitng dyno business. But if you are going to spray, you need to consider getting on a dyno with a wide band o2 sensor. I charge $85.00 for three pulls with O2 and $100.00 to tune. I have quite a bit of hands on with dry kits and I do installs as well. My number is in the sig if you have any questions.

Who was the dyno?

I can introduce you to the guy if ya want.

A friend of mine who I have not seen in 10 years tracked me down through the dyno and is going to be turbocharging a 350 cubic inch small block chevy. The shortblock will be built with a turbo camshaft and we want to limit engine rpm's to around 6000-6500. It will be carbed. He is wanting to see 700 rwhp through a turbo 350 tranny and 12 bolt rear end. We are not sure what if we are going to do a single or twins. I need to know a single turbo recommended and also a set twins for the information given within in thread. What kind of price am I looking at and is there anyone with a connection on turbos? Money is not an issue here. I will also be needing an intercooler as well. For those that care it is a 84 monte carlo. The car is already setup for drag racing. The owner use to have an 87 GN that was running high 11's back in 87. All info is appreciated.

Hoping maybe someone can help me here. I just installed a Greddy Type R BOV on my mustang tonight. I had borrowed a Type S last year and was getting alot of compressor surge. I did some looking around and met up with a guy who works for an RX7 shop in Florida who has an incon kit as well. He told me that the R-Valve would take care of any compressor surge. Basically, the type S was not big enough to move the CFM that my turbos generate. However I have just as much surge if not more. The screw is backed almost all the way out. Just before the point of it whistling with engine vacumn. Do I need to crank the screw down? I kind of feel like I wasted money. If I cant figure it out. I will take it off and sell the damn thing. I went this long without one. I sure as hell can go back to not using one.

I could set you up on monthly payments

Buscher racing in Akron has an AWD dyno

I am sure you and Kyle will bump me down.