DTM Brian

I am sure the import enthusists of our board would either go with a 2jz or a 13b.

Ryan, I would be interested in rebuilding the car. But first I would do a compression test to make sure it is rings and not valve stems. The rings in these motors last forever. Valve stems however dont last all that long. Look at my 88. I hardly use any oil and I am stuffing air into the damn thing.

I was wondering if I could try someone else's mass air meter on my car before I go out and spend 250.00 bucks on a new one. My car runs a tone better with it unplugged with the exception of it losing all power at 5800 rpms. Let me know.

I have tuned with it on the dyno. Time consuming. But I can do it.

We need to talk

I have had a hesitation from 3500 rpm's up for a long time. I unplugged the mass air meter for shits and giggles and the car runs a TON better. No check engine light either. How can this be?

I second that

Here are my new numbers 323.7rwhp 481.9 rwtq. I think I have hit a wall with the cylinder heads because my hp curve is flat. It makes the same 320+ hp at 3000 rpms and at 5000 rpms. It needs my gt40p heads.

Correct. However by lowering fuel pressure with bigger injectors, you can now run 60-70 psi with the nitrous on instead of 80-90 pounds which requires a high pressure pump. I am using 150 shot now and I am still a little on the fat side at about 70 psi. 24 pounders will be plenty big with a dry kit. Even if you put 30's in the car with a recaliberated meter. The car is going to run a short pulse on the injector and defeats the purpose again. On this application, I still say put a 24 pound injector in the car. Lower fuel pressure down to 30-32 pounds from the 39.7 pounds that ford recomends and adjust fuel pressure on the nitrous with a .040" shim in the regualator an jets in the Tee.

I think you were adopted. Your family cant break the news to you.

Or you could do what I did in the primered mustang and get a fuel pressure regulator and dial fuel pressure down to 30 psi from 40 and you will be good to go.

I know you were not Sam. I notice that alot of speed shops who are trying to sell a build of goods go with the STD correction factor. On my car on a 85 degree day, that is worth an additional 25 rwhp. That would make my car 527rwhp STD comared to 502 SAE I have always gone with the SAE correction factor which is around 77 degrees where the STD is around 60. I always have given people on this board either uncorrected numbers( what the car actually makes or SAE. Depending on the temperature in the building, I have seen each of these 2 read higher then the other.

Thats right Sam. Engine Temps, Tire Pressure, Quality of gas. miles on oil, etc, can make it hard to duplicate dyno runs. All the dyno does as looks at how long it takes to accelerate. If the car accelerates at the same rate every time, the numbers will be dublicated.

Lets say forcefed still had there dyno. The following is needed to duplicate near the same results on each dyno. Dyno bearings need to be within tolerances. The same correction factor needs to be used. The weather station of each dyno need to be in the exact same air. There is also an adjustment called "SMOOTHING" that is used to smooth out a dyno graph. All of these conditions need to be looked at if you want duplicate numbers. 2 different dynos are capable of reading the same results PROVIDING everything posted above is the same. Period.

Take it off and put a plate on there to block it.

I have installed three different kits on both imports and domestics. ZEX OVERATES there kits. The biggest mistake I see people who use a zex kit is they pay no attention to bottle pressure. To get even close to getting the results of a particular jetting, You need to maintain 1000psi bottle pressure. Anything below 900 psi and you can expect a big drop off in power. Buy a gauge and a bottle heater. If your car has platium plugs, CHANGE THEM . A zex 75 jetting usually gets u about 50 hp on a dyno. If you need help with the kit, send me a message.

Damnit Wrong Screen Name.

Sent you a response

I am spraying 175 with a dry kit on the Primered Pony this year. I learned that the jetting nos recommends is on the lean side. The kit really needs 24 pound injectors. 30 pounders would be even better. I found that fooling the Coolant Temp Sensor and Air Charge Sensor is worth a little more fuel. Give me a shout.

I have raced a sohc 4.6 with 4.10's. After the 1000ft mark, You can feel the car nose over due to the lack of motor. A car with the 4.10's might get out of the hole harder. But I bet the car with less gear is going to have a better top in charge. If I had with a blower, 3.55 would be the way to go. Hell I only I have 3.27 gears in my car. But I make peak horsepower at 5300 rpms and trap near 130 mph.

4.30's u plan on racing 1/8 mi? Even 4.10's is way to much for sohc 4.6. Better go with 3.73s

my 88 turbo car has over a 100k miles on it. I am currently at 500 rwhp. I am shooting for 600 rwhp this summer. Guess we will wait to see what happens.

LoL. No kidding. If it pops. I hope to be able to build a 400 inch windsor. That is if I can resist temptation in buying a Hayabusa.

Mark, I will have some updated numbers for you soon for my cars. I have my guns aimed at Smokin Hawk.