dustinsn3485

Check it again, that was the swingarm Edit Maybe not, I can't tell now. I've put peg down...the stock do sit a little low.

Probably like 95% of the stuff online a repost, but gosh this video makes me want to ride! 3:53 anybody on here ever get that low?

I am dyno certified with dyno jet. I don't have a lot of experience with carbs, more so with fuel injection which is still not much. I feel I have the grasp enough to do my own bike though. It certainly is something that if i got the chance I would learn more and do more with the dyno so I can be better at it. It will take me longer to do a tune than someone else that has been dyno tuning for 10 years, but I can read a dyno graph and tune based on it. I am not an expert, and have never claimed to be, and you probably know more than I do. And I'm not arguing most of what you say, I'm just stating that I don't see it to be worth the time and money for the small gains for street use. In my opinion, notice, mine alone. You won't be able to get out all the spikes and have the A/F perfect, but you can put jets in and tune it close enough that you're not gonna blow the thing up. I'm no expert carb tuner, but I feel I've got a good enough grasp to get close enough. Unless I decided to start racing, at which point you better believe it'd be on the dyno.

We have our disagreements, but I can agree with you mostly on this one. Getting the pipe and putting the jet kit in cannot hurt, but having it dyno tuned professionally installed, etc just isn't worth it. I've had a 250 and you just can't rake that much power out of it. To the thread starter, find someone you trust to put the jet kit in, and ride it. I've put a dyno jet kit in my bike, zx6r, and have just seat of my pants tuned it. It runs a lot better than before the kit, but I don't race, I'm not going to spend the money to have it dyno tuned unless I can do it myself on the dyno. If you want it installed and can't find anyone let me know I can put it in and get it dialed in enough for what you want. Just my .02

Unless you are race tuning a dyno is not necessary, you can find and eliminate most dead spots by seat of your pants tuning.

This is something I would be willing to do. First like john mentioned we would need to see if the bike even needs it. However I'm not quite in Cinci, but also not to far North...40 mins or so. Just my .02 I prefer the dynojet jet kits over anything else.

It was just last weekend in Cleveland. It is in Minneapolis this weekend and it will be in Chicago the 8, 9, 10 of Feb. I will be there Those are the last two shows for this year.

I did know that the stock wheels are cast. However I was assuming that if you were to buy an aftermarket wheel it is one piece. Not two halves Dweezel is correct, I just am looking for someone that makes the billet wheel with the center and the seating surface already manufactured. And Angrish has supplied a company so that is the information I was looking for in my first post. To make a wheel from a block of aluminum would be a lot of guess work. I'll even add a picture. I just wanted a company that is local I could talk to. As you can see all I would need to do on that wheel is cut a design in the center.

I did know that the stock wheels are cast. However I was assuming that if you were to buy an aftermarket wheel it is one piece. Not two halves Dweezel is correct, I just am looking for someone that makes the billet wheel with the center and the seating surface already manufactured. And Angrish has supplied a company so that is the information I was looking for in my first post. To make a wheel from a block of aluminum would be a lot of guess work. I'll even add a picture. I just wanted a company that is local I could talk to.

Ok nevermind, I'll find other ways to get the information I need. It was my intention that a forum is to be helped not criticized. Maybe it's not a good idea or safe. However it is a question and if I knew the information I would say what I knew add my .02 and let it be. I'm not wanting a block of forged aluminum (which I did say in my first post) I'm wanting a blank. If I just wanted a block of material that's easy to be found, finding a blank is something a company manufacturers and then the consumer buys the blank and cuts the middle.

Notice I didn't say what size do I need, I said where can I find them that is a reliable company. And I'm not doing it myself I don't have the skills, however my father leases out a building to a person who does and can and said if I buy the blank he will.

So does anyone know where to buy some forged aluminum wheel blanks for motorcycles. I'm wanting to cut my own wheels. I never have much looked into prices for a blank, but it can't be much I wouldn't think? I'm just wanting to replace my stock wheels on my '01 ZX 6R.

Ok I don't know why some are big and others aren't, but anyway here's what I got.

Stand by...I screwed this up

I was there for about 4 hours today. Took 35 pics so I'll try to get what I took put up sometime soon. I thought it was a pretty good show.

I wish e-bay was what it used to be. I'd bid on the Wii and see what happens. However considering e-bay sucks now with all the people waiting until 4 seconds, I use e-bay no more. Good luck with your sales!

Fact of the matter is, 95% of the tools that are used at that shop and in service are that of the mechanic. How do I know, I've worked there. So assuming one of Bills drill bits did break removing a bolt. He has to replace it. But lets say he get's the screw out and the threads are trashed, now he's got to chase the thread and hope it's not so chewed up that it needs to be re-tapped and heli-coiled. So what was a 5 minute job for your "$10 thanks for helping me charge" is now an hour charge. And let's remember he get's paid for only the labor he is clocked in on too. While I was there I helped a few people out breaking the bead on a tire or this or that. Sometimes depending upon how long it took I asked for 5 or 10 bucks or just said don't sweat it. One more note, let's remember that if they still have work like they did when I was there, he was probably stopping work on another bike that he was in the process of working on to help you out.

I've tried to talk myself into selling it. I just can't. I have to much fun tinkering with them. The bike is still friggin fast. And for me to fix a dead spot at 8000RPM all i gotta do is a needle adj I would need a computer and a PCIII on a FI bike...I.E. Carb's are cheap to work on!

Yeah, I machined it myself. The inner dia. is the same as that of the exhaust. Just by the butt dyno I've gained some power, but I've never put it on a dyno to compare a before and after. I like the stock look, but the custom sound and of course the power gain that seem's to be are a plus. As for packing that sounds about like what I'll be doing. I can shoot flames out of mine, but that's mostly because I'm a little rich on the top end still. Trying to fine tune my jetting still. These carb'ed bikes take a bit more finesse than the PCIII.

twin, correct. I machined a piece of aluminum. It has a 3" inner diameter.

So what's a good packing? Money isn't much of an issue. Durability is.

Does anybody here have experience with exhaust packing etc. I've got an '01 ZX-6 and have built a slip-on for it. So for the past month or so I just used fiberglass insulation. However I'm looking for something a bit more permanent to wrap the inner core with. I'm using the stock can and machined an inner core. So, as oppsed to the inner core filling up the entire can, I've now got about 1 - 1.5 inches of empty space between the core and the outer can. Is it advisable to wrap the core until it is extremely tight to fit into the can, or better to leave a bit of space? What type of packing works best? Thanks

Probably thinking of Bill at HNW. I was a tech there for about 6 months. Even as an employee I was satisfied with the quality of work done there. Bill and Brad, the senior tech's, really know a lot about bikes.

While I am an OSU fan and really bummed. I gotta hand it to ILL. They played a perfect game. 1 penalty and had control of the ball what 75% of the game. Granted there were 2 touchdowns that should not have been...they weren't called so it doesn't matter.

Carb sync's have to be done at operating temp (180'ish) Then just use your sync guage and have them all read the same pressure. I'm a bit north of dayton.