Moto-Brian

I have a set of four OEM Rays 19" wheels for the G35 that came off our 2006 Infiniti Sport Coupe. These are in about as perfect shape as a set of 2006 wheels could ever be. TPMS included. NO CURBAGE!!! Ok, well... My wife curbed the front one and we had the Wheel Doctor guy that comes to the Infiniti shop fix it. I can barely see it, but if pointed out and you are VERY close to the wheel, you can tell slightly from the sanding marks and blend job he did. I think it is really good. Here's a shot: There are some MINOR knicks from stones and honestly, this is the only one I found on one of the rears: Front wheels both look like this: Rear rims both look like this: Born on date: Example of the backsides: These haven't been resprayed like other guys have had to do. With exception to the one small area of curbage that was fixed, they all are this beautiful: No idea of worth as these things go for $800-$1k plus. I suspect they are worth at the top of the scale since they are in such great shape. They have been used VERY little as we have a different set of wheels on the car that we run so, these have just been sitting. With the fact that we have a set for Summer and a Winter wheel set, I don't think we need these anymore... PM for info or if anyone needs daylight pics or whatever to show these off more, I can oblige.

Ahhhh... Gotcha. Yeah, HD is losing sales, but honestly, HD dealers were never pushing Buell anyways. Buell should have been allowed to sell their bikes via Metric dealerships...

Huh? HD doesn't own Triumph... Why would they get anything from the sales? Thiel's like any mutli line dealership with HD have them all under one roof... HD gets nothing from the others... Are you asking what the profit margins are between HD and Triumph?

Just being around it makes you feel faster...

For all you Triumph lovers, Thiel's Wheels in Upper Sandusky, Ohio is a newly acquired Triumph shop. They are remodeling for the new models, but they have a few in right now. I think they have 20 or so... Anyways, check them out and take a look. I used to work at the shop and they always treated people right. That small town mentality is great as they take care of you and make you feel good about the purchase. Plus, they have a dyno and full staff that can tune and setup bikes...

Dude, that thing was nasty! But in typical Reuben fashion, he got her looking good. i saw it right before you came to get it and looked pretty clean considering... Get yourself an enclosed. Honestly, buy a new one vs. a used one. The reason being is that a new one isn't too far off what these guys are asking for new. The guy near me sells them cheaper than anyone I have seen and even though you can save more down south in GA, etc., you have to account for driving, fuel costs, food, and even hotel possibly... That cost added to the trailer equals out. PM me for his info...

Reuben at 35 Motorsports, man. Give him a call. 20% off labor and he can get you EVERYTHING from Ohlins to Penske to GP Suspension, etc. Hell, if it is just springs and oil you want? He can do it and I can deliver and bring back for free... Just gotta call him. 317-850-3884

Killing the OEM stuff, huh? Tell that to this Super Duke on stock Dunlops... :D:D:D Seriously, though. Street tires can be ridden on fast and to the limit. However, if you are doing any type of track, my suggestion is echoed in something like the 2CT, etc. Dual compound tires will get you that extra stick and yet get to temp quickly for street use. Just understand that when you say you run past the limit of street/OEM tires, people are gonna laugh because that really means you are doing something that makes the tires protest vs. work...

Once that is done, it is time to install forks. Forks are somewhat easy to do. I start by getting them put in so the top triple tree can be mounted. It doesn't matter at this stage how far up they are, just make sure they are above the top triple. You will also slide them up through the clip-ons at this stage and not worry about mounting them tight... I torque the bottom triple to spec just to hold the forks up. I ten mount the top clamp and torque the nut to spec. Once torqued, you can then adjust the height you desire to the top triple. Do each side and torque to spec. I then move to clip-on position. This is set per rider's desire. I leave about 5 mm from the bottom of the top triple to the top of the clip-ons. This allows for up and down adjustment depending what track and where I want to be on the bike... Once adjusted, the steering and front suspension is set Some markings that say a lot of words... Now, I wire the little things. I do the case cover inspection cover... I use heat shrink tubing to protect the cover from getting scratched by the wire... Note the header bolts are wired. This is something racers have to do... I then make small adjustments like the QS positioning of the actuating arm, etc... At this stage, it is the small things that catch you off guard. I run through the whole system and inspect everything. I have a check list that I review... Add oil and new filter... I then connect the battery and leave the fuel pump and tank disconnected. I turn the bike over a few times to prime the pump. Then, I connect the tank and pump and fire her up. Listen for anything weird or out of place and let it climb hot enough to open the thermostat. Once that happens, shut her down and let her cool a bit. I inspect everything again and then after a good bit of time (great time to put away tools, clean up, etc...), I re-fire the motor and let it climb in temp and check again. THING IS AWESOME!!! At this stage it is showing to be fine and together correctly. I slap on bodywork simply to get it off the shelves and some of it out of the house... Here's what she looks like sans wheels... I will now get it ready for April and it's first event. The way I will go is to run it and get load put on it but not hit the rev limiter or get to red line... I will do that up until lunch and afterwards, let her eat! She is going to be awesome as it is completely fresh with the job Reuben has done. This is new all the way through and should show how good it really is. It was probably timing out slowly last year and probably should have been done at the start of 2009. But, we are done now and it will be good for some time now. Special thanks to Reuben at 35 Motorsports. If you guys are racers out there, you need to keep motors fresh. They time out and slowly drop their power and performance. Too often, riders get "used" to their bikes and really don't notice the drop in performance until it breaks. Breaks cost a LOT more to fix. If you want to excel and be up front, you need to maintain things... Track day riders,, you owe it to yourself to maintain and do some of the things listed here. Maybe not motor work, but at least do suspension. Stock stuff isn't going to last under you as you progress. You WILL notice a change and you WILL be allowing the bike to work better for you. Suspension is something that ALL riders need to look at. Even aggressive street riders. Racers tend to never freshen up their stuff when they should. 2-3 seasons isn't enough. Just changing fluids isn't enough. You need to make sure things are maintained and that all updates are installed. That's what got me. These gas forks had an update and the update is heads and shoulders above the previous. I was missing out... Get things done and try to do them in the winter when it is slow and you're not riding. It's tougher to get yourself to do it mid season or especially when you break something... See you guys out there!

Ok, some updates and maybe some tips for you track day guys... First of all, let me just say the quality of work here. I'm about as picky and detailed a person as anyone. If you've seen my stuff, you know I am particular about details and about how well maintained and clean everything is... Reuben was VERY thorough and detailed on the motor, the forks and the shock. Everything was clean and it certainly wasn't the cleanest when I took it to him. I usually do clean everything, but it was freezing cold when I took the stuff over and I didn't do what typically I do when taking someone something. Reuben doesn't charge for cleaning a thing. He does it all so it is as fresh and perfect as it can be when returned... Here's my first tip to you all. CLEAN your stuff before you take it to him. The guy is super cool about cleaning stuff, but the deal is that he's busting his balls for us all when doing our work and the last thing he needs is a motor packed with grime and grease or a set of forks with enough brake dust to scrape off and make a paperweight out of... SIMPLE GREEN, folks. works wonders! So... On to the finishing touches... Got the motor back and everything. Since having a bare chassis, it was time (as done every season) to clean and lube the following: -Swingarm bolt -Shock mounting bolts and linkage bolts and bearings -Steering head and bearings -Lube all threads, as well with product shown below Basically, I use Finish Line's Anti-Seize on threads. This allows the best torque on certain bolts and nuts, but it also prevents corrosion and the fact that two different metals are being used - steel into an aluminum threaded body, for example. The stuff I use is found at any bicycle shop and one tube will do the whole bike from axle threads to pinch bolts on the triples... I start by taking out the swingarm bolt to clean and re lube. This bolt is usually NEVER maintained. Racers and track day riders should ALWAYS do this. From the factory, there is little if ANY lube on your swingarm bolt. This is bad. Very bad... I have the frame on jackstands via the rear foot pegs. If you have street pegs that fold, you'll have to figure something out, I guess. Solid mount pegs are used in our application here. I pull the bolt, inspect and clean. I then re lube using the Maxima synthetic grease. I use the anti-seize on the threads. Install and torque. Now time to get to installing the rear shock. I lube the bolts and clean and re lube the bearings. This is something that is typically overlooked and IF you get your shock serviced, you really need to do this part or you are somewhat short sheeting yourself... I use Maxima synthetic grease and the anti-seize on the threads... I wrap the shock with an ATV shock cover. This keeps the grime and rubber off the shock and when time comes to adjust the spring, it is easy to work as it has been protected and not full of dirt in the threads... Once the shock is on, I take the frame off the jackstands. I then use the swingarm stand from here on out... Now since the motor is going in next, I use the anti-seize on the adjustable spacers that thread into the frame... The long and short is that installing the motor is time consuming for a newbie. What I do to make things move along quicker is at time of taking the motor out, I put bolts in baggies. Label to where they belong and when time comes to put it all back together, I know what bag to grab and where bolts go. It's like clockwork for me, but a new at this person may get over their head if they do not do this series of steps. Anyways, everything is bolted and torqued... Now that the motor is in, I have to take apart the steering stem and triples. The front is on a stand so, you need to grab a small jack (scissor is best) and place under the front of the motor. This allows you to drop the stand and remove the triple tree system. I pull and remove the bearings. Inspect and clean. Re lube with the Maxima synthetic grease and use anti-seize on the threads. I also remove the pinch bolts and clean and use the anti-seize on threads... I then get the thing reassembled and ready for the top triple tree to go on. DO NOT mount the top triple clamp. This needs to be loose until you get forks on. I zip tye the clip-ons during the whole process to the top triple to keep them up and away and not to have tension on brake lines and wires... Once the steering stem is back on, I put the stand back on the front and remove the jack. I then move to wiring and assembly of things like the throttle bodies, etc. Here again, I do something to make life easier. I label every connection a number 1-9 and after that, letters A-Z. This allows me to know one, how many connections. I had 9, for example. Plus the 4 for the coils... So, I run through, connect all of the connections easily and quickly. Now time to do the exhaust. It is a great time as the radiator is off and you have easy access to the header bolts and can wire without scarring your hands... Next, the radiator and oil cooler. Connect all wires that are left and connect hoses. Make sure nothing is pinched and can pass through the frame easily and be allowed to swell slightly.

Folks, this bike has springs for Bonnie's weight. If you are heavier and need stiffer springs, they will be provided at time of sale. I will also raise the bike as it is currently set for Bonnie's height. Meaning, the forks are raised and the ride height in the rear is at the lowest setting. Will accomodate any rider.

Go with Honda polish on shields and helmets. Plexis leaves a thin film behind. Not ner as good as HP. Trust me, we used to clean a LOT of helmets and that's all we'd use. Tried Plexi and it just wasn't as good... As for the tar, just simply use some wax...

Earsey... Can you do my car wheels? They are 19" rims that are 8 and 8.5" wide... Let me know...

Absolutely sucked. No factory presence like there used to be. Sure, you have about 5 guys that are going to blaze the field. No focus on the privateers other than Melissa. I love Melissa and think she's bad ass, but come on... Corey West gets 5th and you hear nothing. Melissa was running 13th and then crashed. However, there were only 23 racers at that point still running out of 43 plus... Ama needs to get their shit together. There's no feeling this is the pinnacle of road racing here in the country. You have 6-7 top Superbike guys and 5-6 top Sportbike guys and that's it. It used to be as a privateer, if you could do 15-20th in the Supersport class, you were kicking ass. Now? Top 10 easily... They need to work on the announcing, as well. Russell while a great racer in his day, sounds like he's got a mouth full of poo while talking. Get someone in there with the ability to talk that has the credentials. I think Hayes did a great job and there are many a retired racer that could fill Russell's shoes. Think of it this way - if you have no experience watching road racing or no knowledge of the sport, would that have convinced you it was worth watching or paying money to watch at the track? Would it have caused you to want to go to the track and spend a weekend and related expenses to view it? The factories need back in. The top riders need pulled back into it. We lost a great deal over winter and it shows. Thumbs down...

Did you not read the ad? Fag... Looking for a Subaru Legacy wagon...

Actually, I got it late in 2006. So, it isn't even 4 years yet. It's really about 3 full years... I drove over 45k last year and will do closer to 50k this year...

Oh, and had the front windows tinted to match the back. Looks WAY better. Also have the rear tails tinted...

I have a 2006 Scion XB that is going on the for sale block. It has some serious miles and thus, asking a fair price, I think. -Miles are about 140k. Yes, 140k and they are all highway miles. I travel for work so, not a lot of in town driving. Specs: -5 spd. -A/C -Power windows -Steering wheel radio controls -iPod radio and connection port (Charges and allows operation through the radio itself -Rear spoiler (OEM Scion) -Scion LE 17" wheels. Have a little curbage, but not much. -BRAND NEW tires. Just got 'em Saturday. -TRD Lowering Springs. Brand new in the box and will be installed after winter and the salt is gone -Fujita short air intake -RELIGOUSLY changed the oil and filter myself -Brand new plugs Spares: -OEM Springs - less than 100 miles -OEM grill - replaced with a black grill -OEM Wheels and tires. Great winter wheel set. -OEM hubcaps. Never used. -OEM intake. Good idea during winter months. Good: -Runs like a champ. Actually is pretty peppy for a 100 hp car. -Gets 28-30 mpg even still with the miles. Bad: -Front end has a lot of stone chipping and dusting going on. Road debris on a flat face car is not a marriage made in heaven. -Windshield is cracked, but will be replaced before it is sold -Front sriver side floor mat is worn out. I will try and find one on Ebay or something, but figured it isn't a big deal. The others are like new... I am going to ask $6,000. I think that's pretty fair. I'm open to offers. Or, if you have a Subaru Legacy Wagon 2006-2009 and want to trade plus cash from me, I am game... Here's pics. These aren't current and were shot earlier, but give you an idea. I will try and detail it soon and get some better ones.

Man, best bet is to try one on. I can meet you to try on. But, if you wear a small, doubt they will fit. I wear a medium in everything...

I'm taking a set of forks to Reuben next Wednesday. If you can get them to me by meeting up between Saturday and Monday, I can take them over. I will be back through by his shop two weeks after...

I will include one Light Smoke (seen in the pics) shield AND one dark smoke shield with purchase. So, three shields, helmet bag, and helmet. $250 O-B-O...

Why is everyone so down on white and cleaning it? I have ridden 20 plus events and raced with a full white suit and have it looking like new. CLEAN it after rides. Let it sit with bug guts and grime and it'll eventually look like shit. No different than a bike. Keep riding w/o cleaning and maintaining and the chrome rusts, the bolts rust, paint faeds, etc... White is easily maintained and can look great and like new as long as you take care of it.

Also, all this talk about pads and caliper rebuilds and whatever... Just PROPERLY bleed the system. No offense, but if you pulled the banjo bolt to "check the system", I'd say you are better off having someone help you do the bleed... Get a PROPER bleed and see where you are. Check the pad thickness and replace if you want. Get an old toothbrush and clean the calipers and the pistons and after the bleed, I am going to bet you'll be fine. As for fork seals? Yes, easy to replace, but not if you are not mechanically inclined...

Check out the 2010 SHIFT ladies leather Siren Jacket vs. the Viper you posted. More of a true riding jacket vs. styling jacket the Viper is. The Viper is cool and definately worth looking at, but the Siren is better in fit and protection...

One, help a brother out on the grammar. Second, you essentially just added a shit pile of air to the system by undoing the lines and pulling the lever. You killed the system and now have to re-bleed it entirely. Now that you have air, you will not get the system to pump up. NEVER pull off a banjo bolt and squeeze the lever...