Moto-Brian

Yup, they were the same pads. I talked with Mathias - LIKE I HAVE TOLD VW TO DO BEFORE HE KEEPS POSTING - found out what the deal was and decided to try the newest compounds that they currently run. Tried them, maintain the calipers and pads the way one should and guess what I am running this year? Guess which pads I trusted to race on at the GNC event at Mid-Ohio last year? Yup... My fear is that VW is putting fear into people's heads. Sure, they had a few sets do this, but truth be told, the pads he shows should have been changed out. See the wear at the edges? They are timed out. Like a motor does, the parts will time out over long periods of use. If they were changed out when they should have been, no issues would have probably occured... The thing is that the failuers I know of and when this occured with me, it was in 2008. I am willing to bet the born on date of the pads he has falls into the same time frame. I also am willing to bet he has several hours on them... When people ask me about pads, I tell them Vesrah is the best. I would run Vesrahs and my good friend is the owner of Vesrah, but getting pads from him is virtually impossible with his schedule. I don't buy things like this from catalogs where the inventory can be years old. The name of the pads and the compound name have not changed. So, the SKUs are the same. However, like anything, changes occur along the line and things can get better. When people talk to me about C/L pads, I tell them to call Speigler direct. One, Mathias will get you the best he can. Two, he will educate anyone that asks questions. Three, he's going to have the newest and freshest batches vs. the big book guys do... If you go to a place like Iron Pony, make them order from Speigler. If you want, call Mathias, tell him Brian sent you and get them. C/Ls are progressive and do not have the initial bite I prefer, but are DAMN good pads. I trust them enough to use them on my 1000 and will do so on my other bikes when time comes. BUT, you need to watch for the effects of worn pads. The edges you see above are examples of pads that should have been changed.

Really cool if you like straight line stuff. To each their own, but my mom can stomp the gas pedal as hard as anyone and go straight... Tell ya what, we run 'em straight and place a right turn at the end of say, 1 mile... Then, go left right after. Guess who gets to the line quicker? Guy with a waste of a machine or a guy with a bike that can do both rather well and tops it off with a little thing we call talent?

And to counter, I have seen it snow so much and actually get freezing rain to the tune of a 1/4" as late as second week of April... Point is that what today's weather is has no bearing on what it will be in two weeks. Today is supposed to be mid 50s. Tomorrow? High of 45... Possible flurries early in the day.

Uh.... 20% of maximum torque is saying that anything below 64 ft lbs is inaccurate. I think you are saying that anything sub 16 ft lbs should be used with a smaller ranged torque wrench...

I track dau the thing everyday. I put WAY better performing cars a lap down all the time!

Yup. Responded... How about a deal that you bring your bike and tires and take home a Scion XB?

NEW PRICE!! $5500!! Ok, got her washed and cleaned up... Safelite stated it was about $215 for a new windshield so, I will stick with $5500 with the way it sits and allow for a $215 allowance. I think $5500 and you spending $215 is pretty fair. You get the spare steelies, OEM hubcaps, NEW TRD springs, OEM grill, OEM springs, OEM air intake, etc... All listed above. Here's a link to the album: http://img256.imageshack.us/g/steeringwheel.jpg/ Here's a few quick pics:

Toyota Direct? Toyota West?

Give him a slap on the ass, a high five and tell him "good game, son" and he'll be good to go.

I love the Pit Bull restraints you guys are describing, but I have a GSXR, a Zuma, hauling buddies' ZX6s, R6s, some KTMs, MX bikes, etc. I'd need so many pins it makes my head spin... I can tie down all four of our bikes (by myself) in a matter of minutes. Only had one fall over in 16 years of hauling across country and with working at a shop. It's a matter of getting them secured the RIGHT way and using proper tie downs. Cheap tie downs will fail for sure eventually...

Now, with the "Bungee Butt jump with a twist into flip combo", Brian and his kid... Could work! I call dibs before they make it an Olympic sport... The trick is getting a good bounce off the road. Tends to scrub off skin in certain parts, but kids heal pretty quick and shouldn't be too aweful. "Walk it off son"...

Oh, and we pull from the bottom of the forks on our bikes, but I have tried an MX bike, Scooter and even a MTB bicycle and all have been solid. The eyelets are not where we mount from - they were just placed for storage at the time of the pics.

I used Pit Bull removable wheel chocks and E-Trac. The E-Trac at TSC is polished while most trailer places, you'll get Army green... Here's a sample of what I did: The top middle E-Trac is for both the left and right bike that would be in place. The one behind, or the bottom one shown is to pull from the rear of the one that goes up against the cabinets... Here's the front one. I also have a back one facing opposite of the others that would fit in between the two shown in the first pic. All the chocks can be pulled up and the E-Trac is easy to walk and ride over...

I'd suggest bungie straps. That way, if he falls off, once he makes contact with the ground and bounces, he will sling shot back to the bike and you can retrieve and reset. Think paddle ball...

Hob- If you got a NoMar, you can do car tires, too... I did the tires on our G35 and the 255 rears and 245 fronts were a bit of a bitch. Almost gave up as the sidewalls are KILLER tough and hard to get up over the lip of the wheel and even tougher to get started on the machine. NoMar's video library had a car tire being done and they used little wooden blocks to keep the sidewalls pressed down to the middle of the rims. Worked great and was easy getting off.

Uh, thanks...

Looking for a new or used FJ Cruiser... Anyone?

Watch bleeding them so they are so touchy... Locking up the rear is usually the result. We bleed with a slight soft pedal. You barely use them anyways, but when you do, you want them to stop - not slide the tire...

Come on down to the house. Got a NoMar and will do it for $10. Since you have to drive and such. Hell, probably do it for free if you buy that jacket! If on the bike, maybe a few bucks, but nothing too serious...

Craftsman's 3/8 torque wrenches are 5 ft. lbs and up. The 1/2 drive is from 20 up... Go to Lowes even and grab a Kobalt one... The 3/8s are 5 and up...

Updated price - $5k and still two free track days. $5K!!!!

225 lbs with no gear and you guys think .95s??? I run 1.0s in mine and I am only 190... I'd say 1.0s in my opinion. Racetech's calculator is good as an idea and that's about it... May need a 1.05, but I'd try a 1.0 first. You can also mix and match to get a 1.025, etc... You should be able to find springs for $100 or around that...

If a stock GSXR750 rear shock would work - you can have it free. It's never been used but maybe for a few hundred miles. I think the one I have is actually new... From 2005, though...

I can't name names, but I MIGHT know someone who has done this... He rides a black and white bike with stripes...

Just north of Columbus, but drive through Columbus, Dayton, Cincy, Indy, everywhere in Indiana, actually... Sure I can get close to meet, etc...