Moto-Brian

Since when did Troopers start using old Rangers? Do you mean one of the Chevy Tahoes?? You're going to get screwed if you fight it. They'll simply say he wrote down the wrong speed zone. Are you 100% sure he didn't get you in a 55 that turned into 65? Otherwise, you can try and fight it, but to claim that he made an error in writting and it could be an error in how he clocked you are two completely different things. If he's good at making notes on pull overs, you're going to waste time and money. If you simply plea no contest, take a few pictures, have a diagram, etc to support the 55 vs 65 thing, you'll be better of fine-wise...

"Maybe" is all I'm gonna say right now...

If it rains, it sits at Mid-Ohio. I have had some serious situations arise when out on that track in the wet and it does me no good to even attempt to ride it... It came out on Tuesday and it felt GREAT!!! I got to play in advanced group and I even hunted down and passed a few of the top WERA guys. I was reeling Jonas in a bit, but he wasn't on his "A" game, but it still felt good... I had plenty left had I been needing it. Overall, Tuesday felt the best I have ever felt at Mid-Ohio. Hope that isn't an indicator of bad things to come...

I wouldn't take a whole lot of what Spector has to say as gospel... Plus, from what I heard of him at Beaver, I'd look to someone else who can help you there... As far as the bike goes, look at the laps guys were doing back in 2001-2003 and see if you are hitting those times. The age of the bike isn't a big issue unless you are running the National Challeneg series and want points and money. Otherwise, what you have is fine and can be made into a serious race machine. Suspension and set-up will get you more results than motorwork, but realize that even with a built motor and having to be under Suzuki Cup rules, I had only 135-ish (Suzuki Cup legal) hp at the ground. A built 2007/2008 ZX6R and R6 will be at 127ish at the ground. Plus, they're lighter and more nimble. Not to say your bike sucks, but to keep up with the Joneses, you need newer machinery. This year and even next season, I'd stick with what you got...

The entire set up I am after is over $1500 at retail... To get self mapping, I think minimum entry is $1200...

BINGO... We have a winner. No need for dyno tuning if you have thee self mapping setup. Still can use a dyno for some tuning, but a buddy has the full monte kit and from what he's told me and the results I see, Bazaaz will be on my next bike for sure. I'd bet money DynoJet will have something, but I'm sold...

I'm there everyday. Seriously.

I "switched" to Michelins... I was with Pirelli since 1999...

Get me some prices on both... Homo.

I messed with one at a dealership I went to Thursday. Wallowy to me is the way it seems to be very slow to react. It also will feel too plush and like a cadillac instead of a Porsche... You want stiff and want good feedback.... I used a screw driver and a dead blow hammer. Kinda made some marks, but overall, not a big issue. Again, I'd recommend spraying down with WD40 and wiping off and then turning. Would make it easier I suspect... The top collar came off really easy (came loose) and the bottom one turned fairly well... Again, it took three full turns to get me at 30 mm for my weight (190lbs)...

Just like anything, you get what you pay for. Buy a shitty 520 chain and yes, it will not last. Buy a good ERV3 or similar 520 and it will last as long if not longer than the tank of a chain you currently have in your 525 set-up. Buy a 520 and a good one at that. That 525 isn't any better than a 520 quality one.

Nick- Ok, the damn shock is a battle to get to, no? Jesus... Also, there's not much thread left stock to loosen the damn thing much, either. However, I suspect that there should be more than enough to get it softer. You simply break loose the top collar (I am sure you know this, but in case...) and spin it up enough to never be an issue while you adjust the spring tension... On rider's left, you'd turn the collar away from you or from the rear tire side, you'd push it away from you. Make sense? That's loosening the collar. I'd mark the collar before you did this and do three complete turns. That got me pretty damn close to 30mm and had a lot left over. Now, this ZX14 may have had some adjustment done to it as it was used, but I got her softer. It was pretty damn stiff... Now, the issue here is that it may be stiff for a reason. Maybe it is because you usually run two up on a bike like that or run bags, etc. Not sure. If it gets wallowy, go more towards 25mm and try that. I cannot imagine it needs to be 25mm sag, but I've been way wrong before... Good luck.

+1 million... They're fine. No need to replace them. That bridge that is broken is to overlap the sprocket carrier and essentially keep it one piece instead of two. Next time, spray a little WD40 on the rubbers and place the carrier back on. Make special note to not loose the spacer usually found on the underside of the carrier that goes up against the wheel... Don't waste the money buying new ones...

Agree with Drew. Thing is here that the faster you go, the more you need. Asking for gearing from a guy doing 1:09s and faster at Nelson won't help a guy doing 1:12s, etc. Not saying the 1:12 guy is slow - we all start somewhere, but he won't benefit from the gearing... I do 6th at Nelson, too... Unless I have Road America gearing or something...!

You added 170 to your comment, homo. 170 on a stocker 750 ain't gonna happen... Even with gearing. Well, unless maybe Mladin rode it and could get a hella drive out of the keyhole... Fag.

Prices are pretty fair. A few events there are only $70 more than what you are asking for Putnam... We are VERY organized for first timers for a reason - it is typically their first time. We feel classroom instruction is a valuable tool as many riders in I and A are somewhat behind in terms of ability. We try and establish a good footing so they have stuff to expand on. The money charged to do one, if not the best tracks on the east side of the US is really fair.

Love to. Just give me a heads up. I usually am there pretty often, but I miss some so... If I know your dates, I can try and be there. I look at a 14 today at a shop and I'll let you know what I see that may help...

Mine doesn't move around through there, either, but it is spinning like a top... You can tell too as the revs go way up real quick - especially since you're on the sidewall so much. I'd gear it for 6th on a 1000, though. You'd be able to lug a little more and all, but I think I'd still gear for 6th. You ought to ask Agnes or even Etter or someone next time...

Speedo error for sure... Probably more along what Drew's 600 would hit which is probably near 160-162ish even with the motor. Mine probably near 170 (I'd wager 167-170) and a liter bike near 175 or so...

Only Indy cars use it... The speeds we'd hit, if something went bad, they'd have to have those aircraft carrier safety nets to catch everything. It wouldn't be pretty...

MX sag is the same principle. You go with a different amount of sag, but overall, the measuring steps are the same... Also, you can use the zip tye method on an MX bike. I do... Mostly for Supermoto, but I also used it in MX...

Try going out and riding the bike say, 30 minutes or so. Getting the fluid moving and warm will help to get accurate sag numbers. Also, it wouldn't hurt to shoot some WD40 onto the threads to help them allow for the collar to be rotated easier. I need more info so, I will look at a ZX14 tomorrow at a shop and see what I am looking at...

I'll scope it out. I haven't looked at it in a while. I'll check it out.

None at all. I just hate when people bash other shops in general w/o thinking about the whole picture. Maybe mention what tech to watch, maybe state what they did exactly so others can avoid such things. You came from a shop - techs do multiple things and nothing in one particular area. They are basically good at everything, master of nothing. They get a lot of shit work and very little precise work. My buddy Reuben came from a shop and got tired of the crap he had to work on. He builds AMA caliber engines and has been courted by Yosh, Kaw, KWS, etc. He's really good. The shop always seemed to get a bad rap because they wouldn't do certain things. Didn't have anything to do with him as a tech, but he was included in that "rap". Point is that there isn't a single tech out there that can say they can build AMA caliber bikes. Not one that is working in a shop. They typically do it on their own or they work on a team or do side work. Same with MX techs. All the good ones work solo. People who have street machines and play bikes that are NOT serious about performance, set-up, etc. will find plenty of good things at your typical dealership. Those wanting performance work done need to look elsewhere. Suspension - shipped out. Engines - shipped out. Dyno work - performance shops typically - no dealerships. All in all, basic service can be done with comfort and piece of mind at virtually ANY dealership. Oil changes, valve adjustments, chain replacements, tire changes, etc. All can be done by back yard techs and dealerships. Shops charge more because they have to. Back yard guys can charge less because they don't have the overheard and added expenses the shops have. It's simple economics really. Just simply want the people that read these threads to have a voice that isn't so biased and single sided. I try and show that opinions are like assholes and that most shops will have as many bad reviews as they do good ones. So, if you are thinking of taking your bike to Comp., maybe ask what exactly was done wrong and why. That way, you'll have facts instead of simply comments...

Here's a few tips. 1) DON'T use a sawzall or even a hacksaw. Use a Dremel or a cutting wheel ran with an air compressor. MUCH more exact and precise. 2) The inner core needs to be longer than the outside shell. It goes into the inlet cap and exhaust cap. Therefore, you cut straight down and cut it as short as the sleeve and you're done and it isn't going to be right. 3) Use stainless steel rivets. DO NOT use aluminum. They'll vibrate loose and make a shit pile of noise. Anoyying... 4) Use a bit of silicone (High Temp RTV is what I have used) so that you get a good seal on the cap and the sleeve... Just take your time and it'll look real purdy like. Good luck!