Moto-Brian

Much better form, Drew. You always ride well, but I think you'll go faster if you do what you just mentioned. I am sure over the years you are going to develope into a great rider. We just need to keep you healthy!! When you coming back? We need to finish that 600, too.

No, he wasn't wrong at all and surely can speak his mind. However, him knocking the service department when he didn't actually have any experience either working there or having a bike done there is pure opinion. Seeing that there have been numerous threads and posts concerning the poor service at HNW, one can easily say the same about there. Point was that when you bash the service dept and the employees and techs, you need to be careful as it can easily be said of yourself. I mean, seeing there's enough posts concerning the lack of service ability at HNW, one should worry about taking their work to Dustin. In theory... Now, I am sure he's legit and like I stated and was trying to point out - not all service techs are shit employees. The shop may have a bad rap, but there can easily be good people within the facility. Guess I am saying unless you have direct experience and not hearsay (The whole making more money on the internet is an example of how you had false info that was shared with many even though it was wrong), you really need to be a little more cautious in what you throw out there...

Welp, not to bust anyone's balls, but they aren't well thought of in terms of service, either. There's about one guy there that most would "consider"... Point is that throwing stones isn't too kind a thing to do as there are a lot of really good service techs working at shops around the country. I'm sure you were good, too. So, let's not bash based on a few incidents as I am sure one can find as many or more folks with good things to say about their service dept. Plus, it is brand new and is much more modern than before the fire...

Yeah, cruisers get a different dealio. The current crop sportbikes don't usually have valves checked on first service. Of course, my buddy's 2008 R6 with 94 miles just ate the valve train so...

Again, ANY shop can be picked apart. There's nobody super legit that I'd take my stuff to. What shop did you work for?

You never used 6th?!?!? Oh, wait... You meant the 1000, right?

It wouldn't be the same as what you'd run on the 1000... I think it is a 15/45 or 44... Don't quote me, I'd have to look at my notes first...

The "take out" move was when I decided I would lead him around, but for whatever reason, Floundey decides to look over his shoulder... I seriously thought we were gonna touch... Hopefully, I was able to show him some better line choices. I know I was playing a little fair, but that last session out when Monte, John and Troy took off, I didn't wait up very well... Sorry. I have about three things to go over with Floundey and I think it won't totally drop his times, but it will make it less work...

Well, I'm not at liberty to say, but I get frustrated that they do not discount anything as far as accessories go. It is from the owner and not the sales staff or management. The owner feels there is no need and it hurts them more than helps, but it is the way he wants it. So, don't be pissed at the staff. There are those that suck at what they do, but there are a LOT of good folks working there at that store. Tim Nelson is one of the best managers in the biz. If you need help, talk with him. He's the hardest working manager I have met.

I'll say this. Most shops are flat fee at $80 plus. That's the going rate anywhere you go... That said, if you don't know how to do BASIC service, it isn't any different than if you'd take your car to get worked on, get your house's roof replaced, etc. They do BASIC service during the first check up or first service. Nothing that a competent person couldn't do. The best money you can spend on your bike is for an OEM (NOT Clymers) service manual. If you are competent enough, you can strip it down to the frame with the service manual. I'd suggest you take it to someone who is legit for such things, but overall, there are MANY of us around who can easily do such things. However, there are also a LOT of garage mechanics that have more experience on machines 1999 and earlier and the newer generation bikes pose different issues that old school knowledge doesn't cover. First service? Lube the cables, lube and check tension on the chain, check PSI, check the oil, check the brake and shift arms, check for leaks, and change the oil and filter. You'll find that you'll use up almost 2 hours in doing all that should there need adjustment. Maybe an hour and a half... BUT, you'd save yourself $120 plus in labor... None of the shops check the valves the first time. I will say if you have 25K and haven't had the valves checked, you ought to...

Uh, spreading falsehoods isn't fair unless you know facts. The Competition Accessories on the internet is a seperate company and nothing related to the downstairs place. They are owned by two different people. Comp downstairs doesn't do much internet business at all...

Flounder is kinda like me where he's tall and the body position never looks as good as midgets like John (Ducati 1098 behind John in the top pics). My feelings on Flounder's BP is that while the lower body tends to look ok, the top half is slightly too centered. His head is all wrong and makes it look as if he's really having to twist his head in that weird angle... Leaning off more at the top might prevent that. It's hard to tell. My point I try and stress to guys is that while there is a "textbook" way to position yourself on a motorcycle at track speed, there's no EXACT way to do it. Meaning, look at the top 5 MotoGP guys. Top five AMA guys, etc... All with different BPs and styles... Comfort is key and pinnacle as to what you want to have. The techniques of getting faster comes later... I tell Flounder what I tell everyone else. "You just have to go fucking faster"... That's from Ricky Carmichael, by the way in how he helps riders he's teaching to get better...

Where's the aerial view you speak of? If it is the pic that comes up, that's the old layout for F1. Doesn't have the new turn 1 or updates...

If memory serves correct, F4i didn't have a radial master cylinder. Are you looking to upgrade or something? They should be a dime a dozen on Fleabay...

You might want o check the plugs... Jesus. We're all goobs, eh? But, that plug sheet pertains to something along the lines of what you have. Not a good thing for FI guys, though...

FZRs were well known for fouling plugs. Rough idle and having to keep revs up to idle smooth, it sounds like I'd pull plugs and look 'em over. My FZR always ate the #1 plug if I didn't start it a certain way... Too much choke, it killed the plug.

Anything other than Ti pipes are fine. Like stated above, it super heats the pipe itself and with Ti, it will become brittle. It will also scar the pipe. I ran wrap on my Ti-Force until I saw it scarring the pipe and Aaron at Ti-Force told me it was a "no-no"...

aCtually, the fluid moving through the lines and calipers causes small air bubbles or foaming as the fluid breaks down. Those little bubbles need bled out. Again, bleed your brakes and do it right. Guarantee you'll have air in the lines in the form of bubbles after extensive use.

first, brakes can become soft or mushy due to heat from using the brakes over time. Heat breaks the fluid down and air can get in via bubbles created. Otherwise, you could bleed the system once and be done forever. For racing, we bleed the system once a day at minimum. Oh, do top and then furthest caliper like yoga said and the second caliper. I hit the top a second time. Screw that pump deal... I use a bottle of water and a hose. Perfect.

Not willing to part anything out at all until the bike is sold. So, if someone wants to buy the bike in Option #2 set-up, we can then talk parts...

You're right. I'm just glad it wasn't an event I was racing in. I'm also thankful that there wasn't slower riders going into that turn. It would have been 4th and 99 yards to go. You know what happens then, right? You punt...

Yes, the black with red is the most desired colorway... The 848 is good, but the 2008 R6 is a much better choice. Cheaper to maintain, cheaper to buy and easier to get parts and race bolt-on stuff...

That's about average on a used 07... Not a really great deal. He's wanting an 08 anyways (which is the same) but, I want him to look at the 08 R6 moreso. They're the best choice.

Huh? 848 at retail and $18K for the 1098S with full Termi, Kit ECU and Slipper? He wouldn't be making money...

Like I said, it wasn't enough at speed. Initially, there was a TON of fluid needed to fill the piston movement. Think what happens when you push the pads back after changing your brake pads to fit over the rotors. Hell, think about when you change the front wheel and don't pump the brakes. Initially, there's no lever - no pressure. Until that fluid filles the void, it is a dead lever. Well, the pad never contacted enough to resist the pistons. So, a few pumps and it probably built enough to assist, but again, not enough to properly slow a bike from that speed down to enough to not hit that ski jump at the end of the back straight... Once I got rolling again, there was a slight bit of pressure, but it wasn't consistant. I'd have it and then I wouldn't... The pads push back slightly as you move too and that's what I was experiencing. They had to fill those two pistons again each time to get the pad to contact the rotor... Hell, even in the pits, the lever came almost to the bar...