Moto-Brian

That's not what he told Reuben a week ago...

You mean the NSX, right? There's plenty of 1098s running around. Not as many S models and certainly not very many Rs... Quite a few show on standard 1098s, though...

Was that an R? Was it Matt from Indy Ducati? Know he bought one for himself...

Yeah, Drew had a lot to deal with as well as i with the Duc. His times are nowhere indicitive of what he can turn on a bike he feels good with. Mine just wasn't his cup of tea... John's Duc felt pretty good consodering the stuff I had to figure out in the 6 laps I ran. 1:41 was the best which is not good, but not bad considering. Drew's :47 was due to him being a pussy and not trying at all....

I'll let you know how it is once it is set-up better...

Ok, some tips... 1) Turn 1 - you go too wide on the entrance. You need to hug that yellow curbing and drive hard out. Currently, you are losing a pile of time there... 2) Keyhole looks pretty damn good. Practice increasing corner speed there followed by exit speed and a good drive and you'll really have it licked. 3) Back straight, you are rolling off WAY too early. You roll off and then brake. Pop up and roll off and brake at one time. Do not try and do them all separately... It's tough going in deep off the back straight and it takes time, but you are rolling off way too early... 4) Turn 7 off the back straight (right turn after straight). Between 7 and 8 (the right hander), you are too wide getting set-up for the left hander heading down the hill. Connect the right to the left in a more straight line and hug the curbing there. Drive hard out and go wide on exit and pull it back for the bottom of the hill. You have the turn at the bottom ok... 5) Between that right hander you do well and the left hander under the bridge - you're again setting up too wide to the right. Keep that tighter and up shift when straight up and down right before you throw it left... That way, you lug the motor a bit over the crest and won't wheelie as much... 6) Turn 10 (right leading into Thunder Valley - crest that is blind) looks good there. You carry your line out wide and on the gas. Through Thunder, though, shift up a gear. You're up on the rev limiter into the right dog leg before that left hander leading to the carousel. Shift up a gear, hold the speed and brake for the left hander. Get off the brakes as soon as you can as that is a common low side area... Drive out wide of the left hander and stay tight along the right dog leg that leads to the carousel. 7) Entrance to the carousel is too wide. Stay hugged up against that right handed dog leg and act as if you are blowing the turn into the carousel. Almost like you're suddenly heading to the pits. Pull it back in tight like the keyhole to get a good drive between the exit and the left onto the straight. Upshift between these turns to get a solid drive onto the front straight. I would have chewed you out for that pass into one. Too much and you definitely were not able to hold the line. It was a desperate or ill timed pass that could have waited. Part of being an advanced rider is knowing when to pass and how to hold lines that aren't necessarily the best choices, but don't hurt you as much. Just keeping a level head will keep you out of a lot of trouble. That pass in advanced would have had you possibly on your head or getting chewed out by the rider you stuffed...

Sure it was an R with extras? They don't need extras as they come with everything... Plus, even with a squid on board, a 1098 in a straight line should wax about anything other than a SS built liter bike... They have over 160RWHP as shipped....

Better make sure it is a legit 25mm kit... $500 is stupid cheap. They range from $1100-$1700 depending on the kit brand... That's new... You can buy a set of forks with 20mm installed from a racer for about $700, though...

No need for a 20mm for just street riding either... If they are doing track and street, just do springs and a Racetech kit...

Well said about the gear thing. However, if you don't have a two piece suit, you can rent from STT. You need to go to www.sportbiketracktime.com and look around. Not sure where it is... As far as ability goes, what you choose is what you FEEL is right for you. We are always moving riders around due to the fact that we have a self evaluation process. In self evaluation, we get a lot of riders who think they are better than they really are. So, we move them down. We also get riders who are better than they think they are and move them up. So, my suggestion to you is that if you feel you are an intermediate rider on the street, you are a novice track rider. Typically, we put new track riders in Novice group. Track riding is nothing like street riding with exception to aggressive canyon riding or very twisty roads... The applications are similar, but the speeds and input you use on the track is at a much higher pace... Go sign up for Novice and if you are blazing through the sessions, we'll move you up. Make sure you get into Group 1 or 2 in Novice if you feel you are boarderline...

1:49s isn't an Advanced pace at Mid-Ohio. That said, you can easily shave off time by adjusting your line choices. If you can get to 1:45 and BE SMOOTH AND CONSISTANT, you're ready for Advanced. 4 seconds doesn't sound like much, but by the time 3-4 events are held at Mid-Ohio, the minimal time will be around 1:45-1:47. I'd say you get 2 seconds off CONSISTANTLY (not just a flyer lap), you can ask to move up. You can actually move up if you want, but realize if we feel it is better to have you in Intermediate, we'll move you down. I moved three guys down over the weekend in Advanced to Intermediate and two of them were pissed, but that's the way it is. It's all line choice and little things that drop times. Let's face it, not everyone can go out and correct things and get to 1:30s out there. Your ability is going to come into play. However, in my mind, we can get everyone down to 1:40-:42 with teaching. Smooth and consistent lines and proper braking and acceleration will net dropped times. Once passed 1:40, it becomes more ability and then the abilities to know the machine, rider input, etc. come into play and the separation gets even more and more as you drop times. in other words, a kid cuts one fast lap for him and it is a 1:36... However, he's riding like his hair is on fire and doing some bad things out there in terms of stuffing and poor choices. That's not ability...

Pretty much. Let's put it this way... Mark Junge (owns the Vesrah team) had a Suzuki Rider's Developement team last year. The 600 they had used the S&T forks. They had their internals replaced and upgraded. I think the valves and springs, etc... Take a set of GSXR, CBR, Yami, etc forks and replace their internals with an Ohlins 25mm kit and you'd be better off...

The name part is certainly a portion of it, but consider these things: -Hand assembled -Ohlins front and rear (even though it isn't the TTX rear and the front is only the street and track forks) -Wheels -Digital full data gauges -Ability to add some pretty trick electronics w/o much adaptation... That's a good bit there. At retail, the forks and shock are almost $7k. The wheels a good $2k at least. The hand assembly is worth something, but I really don't care as the Japanese bikes are never known to be mechanically challenged. Plus, the 1098s and newer Ducs are much better in terms of reliability anymore... So, take the $11k price tag on a GSXR1000 and add $9k. You get the price of the 1098S. It really isn't an issue in terms of price. What I have issue with is that a GSXR1000 is more powerful, easier to repair and get parts for, and honestly, is better out of the box... But, you tune these 1098s and I bet you can get them pretty decent. I'm going to try and set-up John's to suit me a little better and see where I can get with it. We'll see...

Actually, that 999 with 160 rwhp isn't anywhere near what a prepped GSXR1000 would be. Hell, a stock 1000 has 160rwhp so, it is the same, but less. Now, take the extra amount he paid to get that 160 rwhp and dump it into the GSXR. The GSXR will destroy that 999....

Honestly, I can't tell you other than the hand assembled part, but even the Japanese sportbikes like the GSXRs, R1s, etc are somewhat hand assembled. Not 100%. This I do know. If I took $23k from you, I could buy a 2008 GSXR1000 and get it raced prepped to a point it would smoke that 1098. Basically, $11k w/o "dealing" on price and putting $12k into the bike. Suspension and motorwork is the biggest chunk, but even if I paid retail for most everything, I could do it and you wouldn't believe the difference. Not taking away from the 1098 as in stock to stock form, the GSXR1000 isn't going to go as well as the 1098S will, but in reality, that's not what we're dealing with. It's kinda like HD. It has a bit of mystique to it and with everything Italian, it costs more than normal things that are similar...

I think he's not 100% closed throttle, but it sure sounds like it. The timing is off a tad, but that's just a matter of him needing a tad more seat time. But what you stated - no need for a fully closed throttle to shift...

i think what Chris is trying to say is that little things need to be done regularly so it becomes habit. So when you DO get faster, those practices will be beneficial when you need them. You can go really fast in the "I" group. Depends on ability level, of course. I'd suggest working on line choice and the shifting. Believe it or not, what Chris is saying is something a lot of guys don't think about. However, the video shows that even when you were alone with a clean track, the lines were not conducive of a fast lap. Not a bash, but rather a bit of constructive criticism to hopefully help you along. The traffic is always heavy in "I" group, but definitely passable. "A" isn't much better...

Honestly, the Brembos are better than any other set-up I have used. However, my 750's got the braided lines (typical) and the Vesrah Supers. I think the Supers grab as well as his Brembos... They had the lever so it wasn't such a big pull. In other words, a lot of guys don't like it at the furthest outward setting due to when you pull, it is pushing much more oil and therefore closing the pads to a higher degree. Closer allows one to pull and not get as heavy a result. It's preference, for sure, but I like hard bite right away and a really solid feeling lever with a lever set furthest out...

Unless he has a quick shift, he has to roll off slightly... He's refering to not pulling in the lever, I think. You won't get a gearbox to work with the throttle wide open and pushing on the shifter... Quick blips of the throttle and push down at the same time allows it to change.

The Duc you are referring to was either sent down to "I" from "A" or was sharing the bike with a buddy. I believe he was moved down as his pace wasn't quite fast enough. One thing to consider as an "I" rider that many "A" riders still do is to not get so spread out. At 14:11 in the video, it is a classic example of what not to do. There were 5 of you guys and you all were on different lines... One, too hard to pass - especially in "I" with a 6' rule. Two, most of the lines shown were off the line as we say and not the most efficient nor fastest way around. What typically happens is that "I" riders are used to that and when they get to "A", they get stuffed or get the door slammed and get upset about it. Hopefully, we are going to do a few classroom sessions with the "A" group and address these things... All in all, you looked like you were having fun out there!

So I got a chance to ride a buddy's 1098S. Pretty cool bike with the following upgrades: -Full Termi exhaust -Kit ECU -GP shift conversion -Rear sets -Upgraded slipper/clutch I'm sure there's more, but it comes standard with: -Ohlins front and rear (front is only the Street and Track versions, though! -Brembos -Marchenisi (SP?) wheels -Blah, blah, blah... Anyways, only got to ride it once in the last session on Sunday at Mid-Ohio. Needed a few more to dial it in as it had some issues I want to address next event... First of all, I SWEAR John 9owner) told me it had a quick shift set-up. It doesn't. I screwed up shifting the damn thing probably 100 times. Never once used the lever as I just figured the set-up was dorky and blipped the throttle and pressed down. Figured it out about 4 laps to go... I also was told the Brembos were so damn touchy that you'd eat road burger if you set the brake lever out far like I prefer. So, they had it set closer and it sucked. BIG TIME. So, let's dissect... Acceleration. Good stuff here. Linear and constant. No seemingly common surge you get with an in-line. Pulls like a tractor, but still likes revs even though you can be lazy on it. The gearing was semi close, but I could easily ride around the gearing issue. Top end was amazing. It was almost liter bike top end. Just kinda builds slow and then you are at warp speed pretty fast. With the whole "watch out for the Brembos" crap I was given, I backed off VERY early on the back straight and know it had more... Clutch. The clutch was weird. Like I said above, I thought it had a Quick Shift, but it didn't. The tranny was notchy to me and almost jerky if I wasn't totally smooth. Not near as smooth as an in-line at all. However, once I figured the thing out late into the session, I was able to get it smoother. The slipper is BAD ASS! Pretty much like any of the other in-lines I have ridden, but honestly, it was so much smoother. I grabbed my downshifts all at once and popped out the lever expecting the big twin to pulse big time in the clutch lever, but it did it maybe a few times and was butter smooth. Makes life VERY easy and due to the upgraded slipper, it feels better than any stock slipper set-up I've ridden on an in-line... Handling. There was a bit of an issue with the handling. Again, i need a day with the bike and for my preferences and how I ride, it wasn't that great. It went where I wanted it to go and I could move direction while leaned over similar to my race set-up, but a few things had me fighting a bit. A bit of chatter in a few turns where I usually NEVER have a chatter issue. Turn 7-8 is a down hill right hander and it was chattering (slightly) there and to the entrance to the keyhole. Just strange spots, but could easily be tuned out, I think. It also doesn't like to have you snap it up and change direction post apex. Coming out of turn one or onto the front straight, I will go out to the outside edge and snap the bike straight up to change direct on drive out. Typically, you get a power wheelie you can control and move with. Looks cool to all the kids, but is actually easier to do than both wheels planted and the rear coming off the edge of the track. However, the 1098 doesn't really appreciate this move. At least in the set-up John has. I'd snap her and she'd tank slap me. Not violently, but shook her head in protest. It also head shaked out of Thunder into the Carousel. That small right dog leg where you power out. It hated it there... I think the chassis geometry needs adjusted. I think it may be too back biased and thus, a twitchy front under acceleration or the shift of load off the front... Not a big issue, but I really could gun it out of the corner like I prefer. Although the forks are Ohlins, I think they need revalved and different oil put in. I also think a bit of time, I can get the thing working better... Brakes. Shit. They sucked. I was told by John and my buddy who rode it almost all day Saturday that the Brembos were so good and bit so hard that if I grabbed like I typically do, I'd eat shit. They had the lever adjusted closer to the bar to avoid a bigger pull and harder initial bite. This was shit. The lever after the first couple of laps was coming back to my knuckles. I couldn't adjust the lever on the straight, even though I tried, and had to come in and do a quick adjustment. Got one lap in with the lever out where I'd prefer and they were much better. I'd say they were a bit better than the OEM calipers and set-up I have when I run Vesrah Supers. I like to brake hard and have a BIG initial bite. I do not like progressive bite and want it to hit when I pull the lever. Overall, the bike was over $23k. That was in the back of mind as I really didn't care to toss that much into the Pea Gravel. So, I was gentle and definitely not running at a pace I'd normally run. Everything added to a bit of stress in trying to adjust to so much at once. I got somewhat comfortable with the handling quirks and shifting only to have issue with braking. All four fingers to pull the lever isn't a good choice for track riding.... But, I'd say it is a damn great machine. I've ridden well better prepped bikes that cost a pile less, but in all honesty, I think it can be set-up to be a razor-like machine. It has potential and I will try and do more set-up to get it closer to that point, but seeing it is so expensive and that it isn't mine, I really won't ever put it through it's paces. Overall grade? A-

No worries. I think I left him three. Can't remember, but the freshest one looks the worst. It's shagged on the sides, but the center is primo and it is the softest of the group.

Big shout out to ShittyGixxer and Flounder for the battery hook-up at Mid-Ohio. One of my buddies had his battery charging and left it on the work bench. Not a big deal, but he is from western Indiana!! Called Floundy and he got one from Shitty. Really appreciate it, guys. After all, had you not been able to come through, Drew would have had to struggle through riding my bike (which he thought sucked)!!! Had a great day and it was great putting faces to names. Met quite a few guys from the board and see that everyone made it through unscathed. I think maybe the one kid with the white CBR600 with the headlight hole might have bailed in his last session as I saw him coming in as we were heading out in Advanced. Hope you're ok... Everyone else - had a great time. I was pretty beat from all day Saturday, but still had a decent time and had some laid back fun...

Not a cent. Maybe a $5 gate fee, but doubt even that. Come on down and watch. You can hang out and meet and greet a few guys from here!

Ok, see my post towards Fonz... Second, I agree, there are those who can handle and have mastered their bigger bikes. But two equally talented riders and the one on a GSXR1000 is going to out handle the one on a ZX14 or Busa. Point is that it is simply physics. Not saying one is better than another. Iron Butt? Yup, Busa and 14. Twisties in an aggressive environment (Track or canyon) and the lighter bike with better power to weight ratio and that has better handling is going to win out. It's no different than that of cars. An Altima coupe in the hands of a seasoned racer isn't going to go as fast as a Honda S2000 in the same hands. Same power, but one is designed for sportier driving... Nobody is saying the ZX14 or Busas are shit. Not once has it been stated. Just don't puff out your chest and say they are and not expect to get someone with a reality check to point out otherwise. Had numerous miles put on a XX and a ZX11 back in the days. Loved them to a degree, but overall, they weren't my cup of tea. Took the ZX12s and were actually considering racing one when Corona did the Busa and we almost had a deal with Kaw, but the thing is, it was too hard to make move well enough to be competitive... Even against the pig ZX9R...