Moto-Brian

Weather Underground has the forecast at 10% for precip. Mid to upper 70s! After the weeks of rain we've had, looks good for a track day!! Fingers crossed.

Wait... You do. AND, you are selling them cheaper on the WERA forum than here!!! Huh??? And $495 is way too high. $410 is slightly above what the value is as no matter how clean they are, they are gold so, they fit a small batch of people. I'd say $400 is pretty fair and if Twisted is offering $375, you're in a fair offer area also for a guy that is in Ohio and from this site.

Put those babies on the WERA forum...

Just a heads up that Ducati Indy and Commonwealth will be running a track day Sunday July 7. This is a great opportunity to ride Putnam Park. Cool track that is friendly to those who are newer riders and challenging enough for those expert riders to provide a fun time. I think there should be several Ducatis in attendance which is always cool, but not open to just the Italian machines. This is open to all brands. You can access more info and contact stuff at Ducati Indianapolis' website: http://www.indyducati.com/track_days/ Basic info: July 7 with CommonwealthPre entry $165/day until March 30, 4PM Sign up for all three and get Free GarageAfter March 30: $175/dayWeek of event: $190/dayDay of the event: $200$50/day for a garage - as space permits

Go to northern Ohio Ducati triumph ask for Carl and tell him his Ducati rep sent you. They have the best techs in Northen Ohio period.

Oh, and get a different amount of allowed miles. My parents lease and add a higher per year allowance. Pays for itself... If you're going to be 15k miles over, you are doing it wrong...

But it's better to pay a down payment, interest charges and the asking amount for a car, keep it through the period of the loan and be lucky to get half of that back when you sell it after say, 5 years? Heres another way to look at it: 40 years. 8 cars at 5 year loans. $30k each 8 down payments of about minimum 10% each = $24k Interest rates are low, but say you have to pay a little. Maybe over the 40 years another $24k On the balance of the cars, you still are paying monthly payments for $27k which means you shell out $216,000 in 40 years. So, you've invested $296k and will be lucky to get $145k of it back. Lets be generous and say you get $160k. Total investment on JUST THE CARS is $136k. But, there's more! You get the same 3 year free maintenance as the lease guys do. But, you have to pay after the three years. So, in two years if you drive 15k a year, you have oil changes, regular stuff like tires and stuff. You'll at least pay $40/ oil change and one set if not two sets of tires. Lets say you spend $600/car x the 8 cars. That's another almost $5k. You spend over $140k to "own the car"...

I don't have either, but will post in case you can win from here...

I got some vids, but can't post being out in the country. I got them on the laptop if you're at the track sometime. I am going to do more body shots, but not many though...

I have my son's 2003 RM65 for sale. It is a great bike that he is simply too big to ride anymore. We were using it for some ice riding over winter and he rides it on our mini track a little. It has NEVER been raced or abused. Comes with the following: -Black rims laced to OEM hubs -Currently has OEM yellow plastics -Aftermarket seat cover -Renthal bars -Newer sprockets and gold chain -Michelin MX tires (Need replaced) SPARES: -NEW white plastics with Monster Energy graphics. -NEW One Industries white decal kit -OEM silver hoops -Blue hoops (NEW) -Spare cylinder -Spare bars for motard riding or taller riders Overall, the bike needs little. Needs new fork seals and I can get that done before the sale, but that's it and all it needs. Fires right up and runs great. Not sure what to ask for this thing as it can be shown all over the for sale scale. I was asking $900 earlier, but would do $800 for everything. TRADES?? I am only looking for an XR/CRF100. Nothing else. Maybe consider a TTR or similar, but we want play bikes still to ride the track we have. I am not interested in anything more than that right now. Would make an awesome motard bike for someone. With the spare hoops, you can easily lace them and put on a set of Dunlop 12" tires. Woud be killer and what we were planning had we not picked up an NSR50... Pics:

I am hoping to be there with the Duc. No fires this time! And, I hope that the third time is the charm in figuring the place out. I rode like a full tard the last time. Probably just Sunday...

I have two sets of AStar Supertech R boots. One a KTM set and the other the GP in white. I also have a set of Sidi boots. All are for size 11 feeties. I am open to offers. Cant wear the AStar anymore with work...

It makes zero difference where you go if you are just running it. $50 doesn't get you a tune. Will show the curve and any issues, but it goes from there. My suggestion is to hook up with DTM Brian as he has the knowledge, tuning link and is capable of tuning better than most. That knowledge and ability will cost you close to $300 or more. And, don't get hung up on numbers. Its the curve that is the important part. Look at the base run and the curve and if the tune takes out the roughness and increases certain deficiencies, who gives a shit about what power it makes? Most likely, the power gains will be seen in the tuned vs. base line. If one dyno reads higher than another, it has zero input into the way the bike is really making power and how well. Base line to tuned. Look at that difference and don't worry about peak power...

These topics are always funny. Everything from damaging the clutch by using the clutch vs clutchless to wide open throttle and clutchless upshifts. Not to mention the guys doing clutchless downshifts... All I can say is from riding for over 20 plus years and most at the track, technique is everything. Clutchless upshifts can be problematic if done poorly. Stress from you pushing or lifting the lever can cause damage. Namely shift forks. Even today's bikes with quick shifters can show wear on the forks. Happens all the time. No common, but happens. The big thing is just like the video and article elude to, you need to unload the tranny. Load is applied by you WOT and the tranny is working while under that applied load. You try and clutchless w/o releasing the throttle for a quick second will bend shit. You are damaging things... Clutchless vs clutch... The clutch will win. Why? Unloading the tranny. Yes, guys can slip the clutch and ride the clutch - blah, blah, blah. You are wearing the fibers and steels and not damaging the forks and tranny gears. Sure, you can do something really stupid and damage the tranny, but the clutch being pulled in releases all load on the tranny. Waiting for revs to drop, clicking in and releasing from low RPMs isn't killing the tranny... WOT clutchless? Not sure I've ever seen anyone with any type of skill level doing this. Unless they have a quick shifter. Quick shifters allow this, but are doing what we did when we didn't have them - cutting the power slightly allows for a change in gears. I have my QS set at something like 5 milliseconds. You can't do that with a throttle hand... But to do it w/o a QS? I don't see it happening without bending shit... Clutchless downshifts - I DO NOT recommend this. I know guys do it and I know some have said they do it all the time. I do not see this happening in a spirited street ride and certainly not on the track. But, to each their own. Never did it, tried it nor know of anyone I race or ride with that has/have... YMMV as they say, but I think that the tranny was never designed to do this and blipping the throttle to match revs is important and something that will sustain the life of the tranny. Clutchless doesn't allow for this and is a bad idea. Hell, some of the more advanced bikes are starting to implement computerized throttle blips on downshifts. Like cars... Pretty cool, but tells the story that clutchless downshifts are probably a bad idea... Anyways, keep on keeping on and do what suits you. Everyone has a different take and different story to tell. I only know that the way we used to do it before QSs and the way we do it now...

We actually are not setting sag anymore. Take the length of the springs and compress @10mm and run it. It's all feel after that point. No more old school sag stuff anymore. You can check to see where you are, but it isn't anything we are focused on anymore.

RVT - you can give Steve a deep tissue back rub with special oil and we will be good. No need for paybacks, bro! Although I do appreciate the offer and thought. Steve is helping me out big time hauling up and back stuff. I feel terrible it all fell on a race weekend I cannot attend. But, I'll take care of Steve-O. That's why I love this sport - we all help out when it counts and I have proof of some really good dudes from the board. Thanks, y'all!

Typical things like this occur with every brand. The Dunlops US front slick will get these fine line separation lines that run around the whole tire. Normal. Never gets bad or worse and never causes the tire to perform poorly. Keep an eye on it and just ride the shit out of it. I had a rear that got a bolt sucked in on the dyno and chunked the tire in a few spots. I ran practice all day at Nelson and in the Morning the day after with zero issue... You'll be fine.

Sorry, mang... I have them sold. i forgot to post...

I have a few things going on this weekend for the Nelson round. Unfortunately, I am unable to attend. Which of course figures... Working with Steve on taking up a set of tires and a canister for two guys. But, the catch here is the frame. I have an SV650 frame, swingarm and shock (All assembled) coming back. Now, if you can haul it back, that's great. Or, just take it and bring it to the third round as at this stage, I am scheduled to be able to make Beaver. I could pick up then... I am going to talk to another buddy and see if he can help out, but not sure. Any help would be appreciated. Hell, if Todd can find a place at the track to store it until the next round at Nelson, I am good with that also... Let me know!

Check out or google XT lap Timer mount and see if you can find something. There are several out there. In a one time search, I found this: http://www.superbiketoystore.com/sportbike/Accessories/XT-Racing-Lap-Timer-Holder/prod_14800.html?gclid=CIr2je7evbcCFc0WMgodyWwAGQ Would work even though it is swiss cheesed. There are solid ones out there - see them all the time for the bigger lap timers...

Why with all the technology we have these days make it so that the phone HAS to be hooked up to the car via bluetooth and if connected, the phone will not receive and send texts? I know very few kids these days that do not have a phone that isn't bluetooth. In most states it is becoming more and more a deal where you cannot use a phone unless handsfree and more and more cars have bluetooth. For the people with older cars, they need to buy a bluetooth system that interacts with the car radio, etc. All available and at this stage, cheap. The phone companies need to start making it so that when the phone is connected to a car, the texts stop until the car is in park. Apple needs to take charge as everything they do, everyone else follows. Or, the Samsung team needs to take the front and push the campaign...

I have some Rains for RHill that I need to get to him. I am going to be in CA for this round and not able to attend. I also have the SV frame setup from the other thread I would like to get picked up. Basically, if someone can just take the frame, I can pick up at the next round. So, it can be anyone... But, the tires, I would be able to drop off or meet off 71 on their way up. I fly out Sunday morning so, anytime Friday or Saturday would work... I will figure a way to compensate as these are no money transactions, but any help would be kewl.

Beuller? Beuller? Going to be up in Canton tomorrow. Anyone out there?

Brand New in package. These fit multiple years and models. The part number is shown in the pic. These retail for over $50 each - asking $50 for both!!