Moto-Brian

The difference here is that if two people family or friend were actually tight and had a good bond between them? None of this would be an issue. Yes, I'd be pissed. If my dad came into the garage and was screwing with my bike and it fell over as a result and tore some things up, I'd be pissed. But, my dad and I have a great respect for one another. He'd man up, he'd offer to pay and as soon as I cleared my mind and cooled down? He'd not pay a dime and we'd work together to fix it. Nothing is more important than my family or friends. My two year old watches us in the garage every day we are out working on bikes. Sees us lift the rear stands on the bikes all the time. He grabs the rear stand on my son's NSR50 after we had just painted and repaired the plastic. I hear this CRASH in the garage and my 2 year old standing there shocked. I was LIVID!!! The way we bond with our family and friends and how we are raised and lessons in life we learn help us grow. How you grow and what path you take determines how you react to things and what you say. My little guy is 2 years old and learns what he sees dad and brother do. All he said was "Uh, oh!" and all I could do is laugh. I was still upset and had to show him we do not mess with the stand and from there, he knows that unless we are riding, we don't mess with the stands. He hasn't touched it since. Friends and family are stronger than a fucking $25 mirror...

First of all, if you hate your dad or dislike him so much - your tone is telling us that you don't have a good relationship with your father. Why the fuck did you allow him to put it in his name and register it to himself?? What I think is going on here and proof from your other idiotic threads is that you either have shit credit and cannot buy a fucking thing or those multiple jobs you work aren't enough to buy anything so, your dad buys a bike. You obviously didn't buy the bike. Because if it was your purchase, you would have had the bike in your name. It isn't. Then, it apparently isn't registered to you which again shows it isn't your bike. So, tell us all how one, he "destroyed it" and then second, how he rode "your" bike? First and foremost, your anger towards your dad is a family issue and shouldn't be brought up here. You have a distaste for your father? Who gives a flying fuck? I've broken and actually DESTROYED some of my dad's shit. If my dad didn't have a rod in his leg, I would let him ride ANYTHING I own and if he destroyed it, I mean, knocked a pile of shit mirror off an old bike that has mirrors on ebay for next to nothing? I'd slap him on the ass, give him a high five and say "Shit, you call that a wreck? Stand back, old man."... Why the hell do you post this shit on here? I seriously think that you are really a 16 year old punk that doesn't have a dime to his name and have a dad that bought a bike that HE LETS YOU RIDE and your pissed because you're trying to build cred on here. Stop. Go away. Or, maybe your whole family needs training and help in learning to ride. As they say, the apple never usually falls far from the tree... But, the way you talk about your dad and if he did all that because of your insurance record or lack of funds, he can shove that fucking F4 into a glove box and I would say he has all the right in the world. If he wants to seat bounce that thing over 6 parked cars, good on him. He owns it. Then, the way you act here about your dad, I can only imagine how much of a fucking bitch you've been to him in regards to a stupid mirror that I too would have told you "I need $200 for the registration and oh, by the way - you best pay me back and get this pile of shit out of my garage or it turns into a bon fire."

I have some GSXR parts for sale. These are from my old 2009 GSXR1000. These will also work on several other years GSXR so, check out via Ron Ayers or similar and see what does. YOU are responsible for checking that. I know things cross a great deal, but things like the rotors and clutch lever are going to be exact and lesser range of GSXRs... -GSXR 1000 (09-12) front rotors. Used, but in great shape. $200 OBO -Graves shorty canister. I think it is a 54mm inlet opening ID. Carbon with Ti. BRAND NEW!! $200 -BRAND NEW Stomp Grip clear for GSXR 1000 (09-12). $50 -CRG GSXR Brake Lever. Fits a ton of years. Was for my 2009 1000 so, fits many others… BRAND NEW. $75 -Active folding clutch lever. Was for the GSXR 1000 (09). Brand New. $65 -GSXR OEM clutch complete Fiber set. BRAND NEW. $50 -GSXR OEM Clutch fibers, steels, springs. Used, but in great shape. $40

LBTS? The RC8 is long gone, mang! The 1199 is on a truck headed out as we speak!!

Ok, I have some gear I need to get rid of. I have ONCE AGAIN changed brands and sponsors and need to sell to make room or buy new. Crazy, mixed up world, but hopefully helps someone get into something cheap. First, the brand new stuff! AGV Laguna Gloves. Retail for $199. Selling for $125. Size Large. Now, the used stuff... -Alpinestars Supertech R KTM Race boots. Same as above, but used. Been worn a season and has rubbing on the toes and such. No damage. Asking $175 Need to take pics, but they are white and show dirt and grime... -AGV used gloves. Retail was $124. Asking $75. Size Large. These were worn a handful of times waiting for the other stuff to come in. I actually like the feel better than the Laguna glove... Like new. -AGV Laguna suit. Same as the above new suit. This has been crashed in. I did dent the shoulder metal cup, but will pop back out I think. I will try and do this when I clean it. I need the suit to get cleaned and will remove the graphics also. Same size as the above suit. Asking $400. No seam damage. No breaks in the leather. In fact, I wore it well after the crash as I trusted it so much. Pics of damaged areas... I will also have some Bell lids soon. None are crashed in though!

Don't. Your shifter dogs and teeth will appreciate it. Forced downshifts are never suggested and they do some BAAAAAD things to a tranny. Guys that think they can do it are fairly ignorant. They can, but at what expense?

Just a note - this is somewhat high performance riding and would not suggest you try this while riding. You are not anywhere near the ability level to be thinking about this stuff nor trying it out. You really need an MSF course and then maybe go and THINK about what you are doing and what you can take from these and apply. I think you are too green a rider to be considering these things in whole or part...

Mid corner and you are in faster than you are comfortable with. You roll off. Rolling off loads the front as if you applied brakes. Not good. Any throttle application on or off will cause a change in the chassis.

Unless you have MotoGP traction control, that's not advisable. Even with the bikes like what you have and even what systems some of the guys have on the race machines, you can still get greedy and eat a shit burger. The idea I fear the most is that a lot of newer riders buy these bikes with all the electronic stuff included. They then go out and have zero fear. That happens a lot, but pure ability can still come into play or lack of. I didn't have traction control on the RC8R. I'd get up behind guys with the big bikes that had it and they were still doing things that no matter what electronics they had, wouldn't help them get better. Crutches are cool. But, at some point, you need to walk on your own.

Part 2: http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?p=929924#post929924

So, to follow up on part 1 seen here: http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=100859 We will now get into some meat and potatoes. My true focus will be drive or exit as I feel that entry and exit are most important, but mid turn or even at apex, we have some things going on that are visible that riders are not truly in tune with at a comfortable level. Mid turn is important as there are several things that can upset the chassis, ruin the entire turn and can cause some serious issue in setting up for the drive. We've got set up for the turn in at entry. You've had your braking done and you got your body position set as you turn in. Now, your knee is on the ground and you are transitioning from braking and throttle off to applying throttle or neutral throttle and going through the turn at apex. Body position is important and obviously, you don't want to be moving around and adjusting your body on the bike. Understand at this point, throttle input is critical to success and to failure. Same with brakes. Advanced riders can and will trail brakes until apex at times in an effort to cheat the time sheets and gain that "little extra". For general speak, you really should have zero braking input at this point. Why? Even a feather touch can load the front ever so slightly. That ever so slight input or load can tuck the front as quick as Madcat gets excited at seeing a man. Also, if you are on/off throttle trying to adjust to the speed - slow it down, were too slow and throttle up, etc - you swap the load back or front. Back? Highside possible. Front? tuck. Back loading is when you throttle up. You transfer the weight to the back of the bike. Front loading is like adding brake and can load the front with a tire patch of what? An inch? Not much. This idea translates a lot to the street. Guys have these videos posted all over the world wide web and always feel like they hit a slick spot, stones, lost grip, etc. Yes, you can say lost grip as a cause, but it really isn't. You had grip. You just got greedy and asked for more than you had. But, how did it happen? Typically, they either touched the brake lever or rolled off the throttle while at lean. See, you can barely touch the throttle or gently roll off, but typically, it is from a panic issue. Not severe enough to be "OH SHIT!!", but enough to react and at times, they touch that lever as they feel they are in too hot for what they can handle. That light touch tends to not get registered in their brains and they just never buy that it was them that caused the issue. How many guys do you hear that crashed, blame it on cold tires? If it were cold tires solely and not rider input, why didn't every single guy with cold tires crash? It is rider input. We can go out when it is 40 degrees at Mid-Ohio for example and run 40s. Race compound tires that lose heat and lose grip, but as a rider, you adjust and work the bike to adapt to the conditions. But, there is a seemingly crazy notion that the track is slippery and dangerous when cold. Yes, it is different than most tracks, but if it was 40 degrees at Jennings, it would be slick. If you as a rider do not understand and adjust, you will crash just as easily at Jennings as you would at Mid-Ohio. Now, maybe the track can heighten errors or poor input choices and Jennings allows those to be masked a bit more. Meaning, you can get away with poor choices more at Jennings than at Mid-Ohio, but at the end of the day, it's rider input. So, throttle and brakes are important to talk about. But, we need to manage throttle or we are slowing down and not going forward, right? GENTLE inputs to throttle mid turn are required. We don't have the electronic package that a MotoGP rider has. Watching those guys mid turn or at apex, you can literally see them twist wide open at apex. Do that on your bike and you will be topic of discussion and have some cool pics posted on the Crash Page. Highside will be your new nickname. But, we need to start the steps to driving out. You need to manage the throttle. Neutral throttle is oftentimes used. That means you maintain the throttle position after settled in to the turn. It is the timeline between entry and even some trail braking and throttle open under drive. There should be almost off the throttle to open throttle. That time between is neutral throttle. It can be so quick it feels like on/off. But, it can also be a maintain the input of throttle to where you actually are opening the throttle slightly, but maintaining it until drive out. Make sense??? I know what I want to say, but not sure I can convey in words... But, the idea overall in this step is throttle and brake input. What do you do? What do you struggle with? Body position is important here also. We need to be at our fullest off the bike position as we are comfortable with. If you are sitting up, body up on center of the bike, you are loading the bike in a way that will tax grip. You also may need to adjust the body depending on the situation. Typically, body movement is occurring if the track is rough, if there is some grip issues under load when driving out, etc. But, mid turn should be solid, smooth and exact. Precise is the key. Intentional focus on mid turn is something we don't want. Remember, all of this needs to be worked on so that you ARE NOT focused on doing it. Think about this. If you get into the turn and are focused on weighting pegs and throttle, body, etc., you are lowering focus and maybe lowering focus on eyes, head, wrists, etc. Things where you do it naturally, it becomes easier and more fluid. The body is important as we do things that can be counter productive with the bike. But, we need to work on things to allow the bike TO DO things we need it to. Weighting the outside pegs is something people talk about. Leaned over left, we push down on the right peg. We are pulling on the bars to initiate the turn in at entry, we are pushing with the balls of our feet on both pegs when driving out. We are inputting things to the bike that are needed for it to complete it's job. Otherwise, the bike is a moving gyroscope and wants to sit up and run straight. We need to do things to maintain manners and complete the turn. We are basically influencing the bike and what it does. Where is your body, what are you doing mid turn? Basically, mid turn is important because of the inputs we give. Good and bad. What caused that last crash you had at apex? Why did you get turned in at entry all fine and dandy only to tuck the front going into apex? What did you do to cause that? No stones on the track, guys... Cold tires? Guys that went around you had the same cold tires and they didn't crash. What gives? What happened? What did you do to influence the crash? What are the hurdles you have to get into apex quick and ready to drive out? What is the hardest thing for you to accomplish at this stage? Discuss...

COTA. There is a lot more thought laid out towards the fans. Laguna as Ear stated is a shithole and bottom line - THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY IN AND ONE WAY OUT. Think about that for a minute. The number of people attending. They come in fine enough as they stream in the days of the event. You can come early, come late. BUT, leaving... MURDER!!!

Dude, a few of us have big bikes and we should organize a practice day. You can run anything down at CRP for $15 or whatever. But, we get a few of us on tards and it is a whole lotta fun!!

What I was referring to would be something you should NEVER try on the street. Realize we are talking a very big difference in speed from track to street. Plus, if you "never let off", you are doing things that are not consistent to what should be going on. Now, if your speed is such that it isn't an issue, that same speed will dictate the same response in the I4. My comments are that the big twin gets jerky from off throttle to throttle applied. That jerkiness is reduced or eliminated by BARELY having the throttle opened. It is very weird at first because you are slightly accelerating into the turn as opposed to letting off throttle and trail braking to apex before applying throttle back on. On an I4, I would chop off, trail, roll on throttle to whatever open level gradually for that turn. Sometimes, commencing the spin to steer the bike or gently to maintain radius and tire wear. It gets all blurry and why I am trying to make it general and we add to it.

This is all basics and general terms. For sure can be applied to the street, but you aren't entering turns as fast, aren't dragging knees and you probably won't be getting that aggressive to where you may get out of shape under the brakes. Question to you homos - should we continue the breakdown in the thread or start a second and third one?

We will discuss in the braking segment...

So, since you all are Jonesin to get another thread in, let's talk cornering. We can break it down into three segments and let's try and focus on each segment in each thread. You want threads? You gonna get 'em! So, Part 1 is entry. Let's include a bit of braking in this section, but let's try and not discuss trail braking too much as it gets hairy and we can make an additional thread later. Yes, trail braking is part of advanced riding and you really just need to look at the cornering sections and the braking idea separately. So, getting your braking done and out of the way, let's talking entering the corner. Setting up of course during braking is going to assist on slowing down into the turn. Trail braking occurs and is something that is an advanced technique and we really don't need to discuss it to cover cornering into a turn. But, to touch on it, the faster guys are going to flirt with a fine line of lower lap times and faster corner entry and higher corner speed by trail braking. I personally do not like to discuss a lot towards trail braking when generalizing like we are doing. Simple reasoning is because someone can think they are going to go out and try it, focus on it and wad shit up into a pop can after 1 lap. It's just too touchy at a generalized level... We get into some advanced topics and I will be all about discussing it... So, we get our braking done, have sat up, slowed the bike to a speed we are comfortable with and ready to get in there and dig in. Body position is key. You need to limit the amount of movement and repositioning one's self on the bike entering a high speed corner. Those little inputs will upset the chassis and depending on your speed, can cause the bike to get Madcat, I mean squirrelly on you. The idea is to TRY and keep the wheels in line. The faster you go, the looser the bike will tend to become. Lifting the rear wheel under heavy braking for example unloads the rear and when it comes back down while entering the turn, will get it loose and out of shape. Looks cool on camera and is a great sensation, but for what we are talking about, let's try and keep the wheels in line. You faster guys are not going to be able to do this, but can smooth it out for sure to be less a burden. You are going to hear a bunch of stuff regarding head position, elbows, butt, etc. There is NO EXACT AND PERFECT WAY TO RIDE A MOTORCYCLE! Yes, there are basics and teaching basics is really what needs to be done. Why? Look at the top 5 MotoGP guys, top 5 AMA guys, WSBK, etc. All of the riders have similar "basic" body style, but no two seem to be exact. You are as individual as your grandmother says you are. Some guys ride the front, have traditional style (myself), new style with elbows draggin (Ryan Kerr as an example), head tilted sideways (Frankenfield), head down with eyes way up (Rossi), etc. Are we all the same speed? No! But, each rider does a fairly good job within the ranks they race. But, body style isn't an indicator of speed. You can be taught where the head goes, elbows go, butt, etc and in general terms, you need to make sure you are doing these things. There IS a wrong way. But, to say someone is doing it wrong is tough. I've seen guys that run a body position/style that has their elbows dragging the ground, but are 15 seconds off pace. They look the part, but their corner speed is poor and needs attention. Body position going into the turn needs to be started towards your position while in the turn. You need to get that knee out, get the elbows up and squeeze that tank with the legs to absorb some of that braking going in vs the arms. Start the process of getting the butt over and getting that head where it needs to be. So, basic stuff here. That seam up the back of your butt? That baby needs to be on the edge of the seat in the direction you are heading. Turning right? Crack on the right side of the seat. Head - needs to be somewhat near or pointed towards where your mirror is/was. I like to tell guys to get the head down and try to get it where the end of your mirror or where it would be. That make sense? You cannot put your head to where the tabs of your fairing are, but getting forward and head down, it is the idea of making sure the head isn't sitting straight up and down. The idea is that where the head is pointed, is where you want to go. Tilting down like Rossi does for example is somewhat a counter to this idea, but his eyes are up and looking to where he wants to be... Elbows are out. Not against the tank. The hands need to be similar to what your position of your hand would be when turning a door knob. If they are stiff and straight, you are not getting that flexibility you need. Elbows being out gets the wrists in the right spot. Plus, you look cooler. Knee out, but doesn't need to be so far out that you limit the lean angle. I tend to try and get guys to aim the knee vs just 90 degrees from the bike. It can stay closer and using the knee is as different for each rider as style. I barely drag a knee. I've seen guys that need new pucks at the end of a single day. It's all what your style is and there isn't a right or wrong. There is a bad position where we see guys sticking knees out and limiting their lean angle, but that tends to show more issues than just the knee. The throttle... The throttle needs to be different for the bike you are on. The twin I raced the last few seasons required to almost keep some throttle on. Really. Never completely off... It allowed the bike to prevent the jerkiness from on/off on a big cylinder twin and seemed to work great. But, on an inline, you don't CHOP the throttle, but you roll out completely and then get back on to even a neutral throttle position in some cases or back into a roll on in others. But, braking, body position and then throttle. You really need to get those things in line to get ready for mid corner and especially the drive out... Pretty basic, right? Kinda... But, there are issues to where the lap times get lower the better you get at braking and corner entry. But, corner entry under late braking for example, can be limiting and hurt our drive out. In my mind, the drive out is more important than entry. Especially as most tracks have more drive turns than braking turns. This means that the importance of mid corner to drive out at exit is important. But, setting up the corner at entry and getting that right is needed to be fluid and make the entire thing come together. You can botch an entry, but it deflates the ability to get that solid drive and make that lost ground up. We start to blur lines with the braking ideas so, look at the braking topic later. But, watch a guy that gets in deep and hard on the brakes late to try and make a pass only to run wide due to high entry speed and the guy he passed on the inside, now drives out under the passer on the exit. Which was faster?

Stay tuned.

Get with Reuben and see what this spring is rated at. It is slated as a 450 and is 7" long and came off a GSXR rear shock. But, I think you are probably looking for a VERY stiff spring unless you are over 200 lbs. This for your bike would be for a rider at about 190 lbs. Here's a pic of condition.

The mini dirt bike allows sliding and loose riding which translates into controlling the bike under those conditions so when the big bike gets loose, it doesn't freak the rider out. Thus why American Supercamp, Colin Edwards' school, Rich Oliver's school, etc use XRs and TTRs. Nobody is using NSRs or YSRs... Not to be a dick, but if mini road racing were the ticket to making big bike riders better, it would be done in schools such as mentioned. The idea of mini road racing is just that - fun and a good time. Less cost if you were wanting to get the knee down and the feel. But, if adding on to his program? More money overall. If using it to train for the big bike? I don't advise and would push towards off road riding as a way to train. It's dollars and cents. I'm sure I got some type of plaque somewhere... We can compare notes at some point I am sure as if you were racing 10-12 years ago, we've crossed paths if you raced WERA or AMA.

You're not as loose on the pavement as the dirt. You can try and make it sound like you are going full Casey Stoner out there at CRP, but that's not the case. Tucking the front is fine - seen it, done it. But, the reactions and inputs are nowhere near the same as a big bike. Also, nothing near what you input and deal with on the dirt. You're not spinning the rear and hanging out the back like you would on the dirt nor what can occur on a big bike. I hear the guys in the pits at CRP and chuckle when they start talking spinning and tucking. American Supercamp is teaching Supermoto now. The idea of transitioning between different types of surfaces and dealing with it. Listen, come to the big track and show us how much it has taught you on the big bike. I can promise that the transition is not the same or similar. But, I take an accomplished road racer of big bikes and take them to CRP and they will adapt rather quickly. I'm not going to argue as I have had this issue before and it came to a head where we were being bashed. We came in with stock XR100s and won the three hour race at Beaver to prove a point. We called ourselves "The Big, Bad, Evil Bike Guys"... Again, I know that JBot is trying to better himself on the big bike. My suggestion is that little bikes aren't going to hurt. But, they aren't going to help as if he would just do 2-3 track days down south over winter and work solely on his racing and riding on the big bike once the season starts. He's a big, grown up boy and can decide himself. As for costs? Yes, little bikes cost less. Yes, there are races. Yes, you will have fun. BUT, if he wants to keep racing big bikes, he is going to be spending more. Why? Unless he converts solely to small bikes, he is adding costs to his racing/track days stuff. It's only cheaper if you race solely small bikes. If you do both and are dedicated to be racing in a program big or small, the other bike and racing is an additional cost. Think buying an MX bike to learn riding loose for road racing. It is a tool and an additional cost of racing big bikes... JBot? My opinion is if you are going to spend $1500 on a bike to race once in a while, buy a dirty bike and learn sliding and loose riding. It will translate into better control on your big bike. Riding a 450 supermoto and a 450 MX bike brought me up to speed a lot quicker and translated so much more closely than a small bike does. I'm not bashing the CRP guys in any way. I've had some fun, know a lot of guys that have done it or do it. I was around it a long time ago and there seems to be this riff between big bike guys and small bike guys. It's difficult to sort out, but a lot of veteran road race guys that have tried to do some racing at the smaller track places have been shunned or not really welcomed. It's weird. We were actually talking about this at Mid-Ohio towards the end of the season when talking about my son. A few other guys had the same feelings. Not sure where it started, why it happens, or how to cure it. But, my son will be riding an NSR 50 this spring and summer and we will be around I suspect. The guy that sold us the bike was a big bike (RS125) racer and was great to work with and very thoughtful in giving us info and suggestions. I greatly appreciated it and felt great after the sale. I'd hope that feeling would be had at the track when we go, but not sure... All I know is that we just want to get some seat time for him to advance him to big bikes as soon as possible or transition into the RS125 chassis with a smaller motor...

Things have really changed in the last 5 years with the bike. Fire roads and gravel roads are very well suited for the Multistrada. The thing that kills me is that there are guys that think in the last 8-10 years, things haven't really changed. They have. Hell, things change in two years! Look at the newer bikes and the suspension changes that have come about. If we stick to history and think in the past, we might as well have stuck with wood wheels and horse drawn wagons for transportation... The Multi has been rather well updated. The Pikes Peak stuff that it participates in has shown how capable a 17" wheel bike is on fire and gravel roads...

You're right... The US got the 520 EXC in 2000. You made my point where you stated "You learn these things when you read and pay attention"... Like I said, you can learn anything and support any argument via the internet. You're right. What you read is always correct and gospel. You mention a lot of us have friends and fellow riders with experiences. You're right. Some of us do. I can promise you that I have seen a lot more experience in the short time with KTM than most have. But, feel free to quote a google search... Let me give a little known history. Post 2005 (yes, I said 2005 - 8 years ago...) with the 990, we didn't have such an issue as what was seen on the 950s. The impellar issue was to be checked at 15,000km per the manual which is @ 9,000 miles. Today's standards has that MUCH higher and the wear items are holding up rather well. Again, you can use the 950 and even early model 990s and show issues. You see almost EVERYONE that has an issue post a thread these days. However, do you see threads of guys that have 30,000 miles with zero issues? Not typically. Thus, real world experience is key and from the sounds of it and from your post, you read a lot. I tend to talk to those that ride a lot and have several years of seat time to note these issues to not be as destructive as you make it sound to be. Same with the 520, 525, 530, and current 500 (All with the same CC motor and essential platform with small upgrades along the way). Water pump issues on the early four strokes were somewhat a thing to pay attention to. The wear items were somewhat fragile and through the years, guess what? Shit got updated and changed and R&D made the needed changes as they were addressed. I can promise you this - there isn't a Japanese company that has the track record of SUCCESS that KTM does when it comes to woods racing, enduro or dual sport. None. That means something. If under your idea that the Euro bikes are fragile, have issues and not near as dependable as the Japanese counter parts, why the hell does KTM have such a large % of the market? Also, why is it that KTM is the LARGEST off road company in the world? Including here in the US. As for the Multi - yes. You can find examples of someone riding a totally inappropriate machine being used in an environment not meant to be where it is used. 17" wheels doesn't make an adventure bike, eh? Weird. Didn't know that... I will say this - the Multi is exactly what it's name states. Multi use. You best not try and keep up with a multi on your 950/990, GS1200, Yamaha, etc on a twisty road. You best not try and keep up on a fire road, either. You probably will have a tough time on a gravel, rough road as well... Id agree that if I was on an Adventure and a Multi out in the Las Vegas Desert, I'd cut a faster time and easier path with the Adventure. Sure. But, the other examples, I would choose a Multi. The Adventure is a VERY well balanced machine. Very nimble, but VERY heavy. That weight is a bit of a downer when running aggressive off road. Aggressive off road isn't your fire road or gravel road... I am talking switchbacks, single track at times and loose terrain where you are jumping, sliding and transitioning weight back and forth. Again, a better choice over the multi in this condition, but again - most never get to that. It's like a 4x4 off road SUV. How many people really use it outside of snowy conditions? Not many. A majority of adventure riders see touring and the occasional fire road or gravel road and not much more. After all, the Dakar where KTM has won it since they have competed... They are using a 450, light weight platform. Not a cumbersome 990...

Oh, and why do you think the Multi lacks everything an adventure rider asks for? Outside taking it on single track, I would say it was capable of going almost anywhere the Adventure 990 would go... You slap on the right tire choice and I would take the newest Multi out to Las Vegas where we ran the Adventures...