redkow97

bad owners make bad dogs. Sounds like this little guy's original owners screwed him out of a good home. It never ceases to amaze me what people will overlook in their pets... a king charles cavalier bit me once, and his owner's response wasn't "are you okay?" it was, "oh, Mac's food aggressive." As if it were my fault for picking up the piece of food I had dropped. My dogs are very tolerant overall, but we've learned a couple of "triggers" that would get them to react negatively. Those are the things we worked on explicitly so they're NOT an issue with guests. Especially kids.

Aaaaaand this is why there is an application process.

A frien of mine suggested this, and I like it. Will likely go this route with some compilation CD's sprinkled in and pandora as a backup. Need to start training a new 80's station ASAP!

Pics or it didn't happen. ;-)

Yeah, but will she take it in the 2-hole?

$400 probably doesn't begin to cover the actual vet and food expenses, but $150 is the standard adoption fee for the rescue we work with. Ensures people are serious, and helps recover some expenses. Dogs are smart, but of you smack them around enough, they start to think they did something to deserve it. I rather enjoy building that trust back.

Have to. Or you get people returning dogs FAR too often. When we have multiple applications for an adoptable dog, 90% of the decisions on where the dog goes are based on a gut reaction to the person applying. The other 10% are factors like whether or not they have a fenced yard, other dogs, kids, etc. But the scenario you describe is why we only do meets at the rescue org and not the foster home. The foster family should only be concerned with what is best for the dog. The rescue can be the bad guy and tell Mrs. Scruit that they chose the other family.

that might be what I have to do... I actually found them from one vendor, and they're only $15, but the jerkoffs want $20 for shipping. that's fucking nuts. for $35, I may as well just spend another $50 and get new boots (closeout) from STG... Mine are a little big on me, but it's never been an issue. May have something to do with why I drag my toes though... Regardless, $20 to ship a $15 piece of plastic is just wrong.

I have older teknic riding boots and the toe slider is pretty much gone on my right boot from riding Nelson and BeaveRun so much. I am finding the slider for the newer models pretty easily (although many places are out of stock), but I bought my boots in 2008... Where should I be looking? It would be a kick in the balls to have to buy new boots. I mean, I could stand to upgrade, but I don't really need to...

It's all about how you ride it. I have never owned an I-4 street bike. When I did a demo ride on an R1, it felt really weird to keep the RPM so low... I was on the highway in 3rd gear, and I didn't know what to do. On the track, you're always either accelerating or braking. Maintaining speed was just weird, let alone doing it below 4,000 rpm...

My friends and I throw an annual "Thankskegging" party every year, and making a playlist is always kidn of a chore. when we started this whole deal, we were all in college, and had gigs of MP3's on our computers, so it was no big deal for us to compile a 6 hour playlist on winamp (remember winamp???) The last couple of years, I've been trying to pre-make grooveshark playlists, but they don't have everything, and that relies on a good internet connection (which has never been a huge problem, but might be this year) Typically that also ends with someone messing with the list to play something they want, and then it devolves into us making a pandora station, with the ads blaring every 20 minutes or whatever As it stands, I'm leaning toward just using grooveshark again, but if there are still viable download sites out there where i can get a few hours worth of 80's music, I'd consider it. paying for it all on iTunes would be cost-prohibitive, or I'd just do that. I mean, I'll go that route if I have to, but I'm already fronting a couple hundred bucks for kegs...

shit... a last generation 250? They ought to be paying you to take it... I honestly wouldn't pay more than $2k OTD. The thing is you can find a used one with low miles in near perfect condition for $1500 that will probably have brand new tires that AREN'T 3 years old... I was thinking you found an old ZZR600 or something. I always liked the look of those bikes, and they were quite reliable and comfortable. Competent at the track, and great for street use.

What model bike?

fuel injection is great, but it's not the be all and end all of motorcycling... What does the OP really want out of riding? track days and racing totally changed what I want and need out of a street bike. Heck, my next street bike will likely be slower than my last two track bikes... the 00 ZX6 probably tops out over 140, conservatively. If he wants more grunt, what about dropping a tooth on the front sprocket and going up 2 or 3 on the rear? That would totally change the character of the bike, for $200 or so...

I met him when I got my tattoos in college. The shop is right by UD's campus. He didn't do my stuff, nor is it impressive enough that he'd want to claim it. Nice guy. Can't speak to his artistic abilities, but nice guy.

don't want to jinx the sale i've got pending for the honda.

nice find!

"little" is a bit of understatement IMHO. I agree that you shouldn't be trying to drag a knee on the street, but isn't it safer if you're ready to, should the need arise? Say you're taking a nice swooping right-hand turn at a comfortable pace, but oncoming traffic crosses the center-line. Wouldn't it be safer if your butt was already off the seat and in the proper position to tighten up your line? No need to reposition your body mid-turn (which distrupts the chassis). No need to grab the brakes (which could potentially tuck the front wheel, or stand the bike up and straighten you out). No drama at all. Because you're ready. All you would need to do is drop your chin and tighten up your line, while maintaining the same speed. If you're sitting in the middle of the seat, tightening up your line might cause you to drag hard parts or lowside. It's like wearing a helmet - you never go out riding expecting to crash. You're prepared for that one time it could save you.

Road course. And no, i did not realize that. Is that across generations as well? I do not know much about the GSXR 1100 engine, but I have read a bit about the GSXF/Bandit 600 engine, the 750, and the Bandit 1200. I've written off the 600 as less powerful than I'd like. The 750 puts out 95hp, as does the bandit, just with more torque. As fun as it would be to drop a 1200 motor into a Katana frame, the frame is the weakness... At that point I may as well just stick with the first generation bandit.

Like i posted on AFJ, i used to have a Tamaya dirt thrasher 4wd buggy, but I gave it to my cousin years ago. Would love to get back into it, but it's another relatively expensive hobby that I don't have time/funds to maintain.

If the pothole was large enough, and if it had actually been there long enough to put the DOT on notice of a dangerous condition, I don't think it's a terrible policy decision. If we're talking about a small pothole that he should have been easily able to avoid, or one that should not have caused him to lose control, then it's BS. But if Elmo has taught us anything lately, it's that settling is sometimes cheaper than fighting in court, even when you're right.

Final bump - I have an offer from a guy in Detroit who wants to come down and pick up the bike on Sunday. I have not accepted yet. If anyone here wants the bike, spares, rear stand, XT timer & beacon, my final ORDN (and friends of members) price is $2400 cash. MUST EMAIL ME BY NOON ON THURSDAY 11/15/12 AT NOON TO ACCEPT. radakchr@yahoo.com

Ignorance of the law is never an excuse. It's your duty to look for the speed limit signs. If there really aren't any posted, then you've got something. Otherwise, you admitted guilt as soon as you agreed you were exceeding 25 mph.

The whole principle of counter steering is a lot easier to understand when you realize that the COG on a motorcycle (with rider) is roughly between your shins... Shifting your weight to one side disrupts that COG slightly, but in order to really make the bike turn left, you have to pull the bike's base out from under it by making the front wheel go right for a moment. Then your weight shift is enough to maintain a constant "fall" perceived as a lean while you turn. Moving your body back on top of the bike doesn't straighten it out either, you have to bring the front wheel back under the bike. This is all easily demonstrated with a broom stick...

shit, all this drama over transporting a bike a few hundred miles... If it weren't KC, I'd just offer to go with you. There are many ways to eff up transporting a bike, but it's not rocket science...