redkow97

Bump - SpeedyTriple just called me with info on a street bike I would be interested in buying, but this has to sell first. If you have any interest in this whatsoever, PM me ASAP, and I'm willing to drop the price significantly in the name of picking up the street bike before it's gone.

Sunday morning: Sunday afternoon:

Do you know Meatball (Meaty) and Sandy?

I have seen news stories where jeans or even a hair weave have stopped .22 rounds... What those stories generally fail to mention is the plethora of stuff the bullet has traveled through prior to being stopped by jeans, etc. Anyway, the purchased .22 targets arent that thick, I just don't know how a pan compares with a hardened steel target.

Will a retired frying pan about a quarter inch thick withstand a .22lr at 100 yards? I plan to shoot at it regardless, but I wouldn't mind reusing it of possible.

Ask the WERA lightweight twin guys. High rpm for extended periods of time is their norm. An there are enough of those risers that someone must have encountered a similar issue.

I don't mean to be the negative guy, but why upgrade a 250? Save the money you plan to spend on the 250 an then buy a 650R. It's everything good about the 250, except double the horsepower, and it's fuel injected. Throwing $$$ at a bike designed for beinners to grow out of doesn't make sense to me.

i always wanted to pick up an "unrestorable" 68 or 69 and then drop in the last generation 4.6 liter mustange engine. mild "resto-mods" are pretty awesome, IMHO, and the original 289 and and '99-'10(?) era 4.6 are so close in size (281, i believe) that fitments shouldn't be a big issue. Then again, at that point it's probably easier to just buy the Ford-authorized reproduction '65 body and chassis and build one new... If I'm going to own a classic car, it's going to be driven, and that means I want at least SOME modern conveniences, like AC, decent reliability, and a chassis that doesn't flex like a noodle... Otherwise all it has to do is 0-60 in 7 seconds or so, and make a lot of noise.

Good general advice is to get your ass moved off the bike while still on the gas (move while the bike is most stable). Then you're sort of "throwing" your upper body into the turn, but your legs/butt are already ready. But ultimately it comes down to counter-steering, and to a lesser extent, bike setup. And practice.

try the NESBA board. So many of the staff members ride R6's or R1's that they tend to buy sets of bodywork and just divide the parts up as necessary. Especially last generation R1 stuff tends to be laying around people's garages.

This is what I'm talking about, but far to nice for a beginner. Sort of the 250 GP bike of amps. Small, but high performance. http://www.zzounds.com/item--HTKKB You want something that size, but lower quality.

15 does sound like crap, but it's small enough for practice, easy to move, and loud enough to play with a band in a pinch. I eventually had a 100 watt crate 1x15" combo amp, then a 200 watt crate head with a 1x15" and 2x10" cabinets, and after selling the show gear to buy my (ex) gf a guitar, I bought an old fender bass man with the 10" speakers blown and a 15" in it's place... The harke "kick back" 12" combo amp is money. Those Hartke amps are tanks. That's what I would buy next time around. 40-100 watts is probably enough to play in a garage band. More for performing.

I could teach you for free if you were closer. Sold my bass last year for track funds though. Sort of wish I hadn't now... BUY USED. That's all you really need to know about equipment. Intro level basses are under $200 new, and most brands seem to have an intro brand. I.e. Fender sells "Squire" basses that look like a fender precision, but with cheaper wood and electronics. Look for a nice used Ibanez SR series, or a Precision copy ("P-bass") by any of the major brands. Those should be $80-$150 used. Obviously music stores will charge you a premium, even on used stuff, but they will also generally set them up with new strings and set the bridge height, etc. probably worth it or a newb. Get a 15 watt practice amp, and a 15' cable, and you're good. I would avoid 5-string basses and active electronics for a first bass.

Let me get this straight: you love the multi so much that you needed a GSXR for sport riding?

Are you implying that dogs have no "practical application in the real world?" What about children? What is their practical application? What about those who grow up to be criminals? Isn't that essentially what a dog that bites becomes? I'm all for holding owners responsible, but it's never going to be the dog's fault. Legally, dogs are property. If I use a piece of property in a negligent or harmful manner, I am responsible for the damages caused. I don't think that makes the property (or the dog) at fault. My failure to control the dog is the crime.

I was just about to remind everyone that dogs are responsible for around 30 fatalities each year in America. Compared to auto accidents, heart disease, murder, and shower-falls, the dogs are really quite inconsequential... We should probably ban showering and driving first.

bump. if anyone sends me a buyer (not just a tire-kicker...), I'll offer a $100 referral fee. And as noted, the price is negotiable.

how many dogs would that fit?

the 675 in the dirt looked fun, but the final shot with all the mud caked on the radiator makes me think it won't last very long.

half the people i encounter think my dog is a "rockwilder." I assume he's Rottweiler/Lab, but until we get a DNA test, there's really no way to know. And even then, I don't think the DNA test gives you proportions; it just tells you "your dog is a mix of lab, rottweiler, poodle, and shepherd." Nevermind that he's probably 70% of one breed. I really don't care what breed a dog is. If it's biting people, the owner is failing to control it. THAT is the issue.

Bad breeding does make weird dogs. Dalmatians have a reputation for being inbred and fucked up. Obviously not ALL of them are, but any poorly bred pure-bred dog is at risk. That's why mutts are great dogs.

I don't care if you have the most aggressive or least aggressive dog in the world, just keep it under control (fenced, leashed, muzzled, whatever) and its not an issue. I trust my dogs not to hurt people, but I'm still extremely cautious and make sure they don't have a chance to screw up. The neighbor kids complain about my friends pug puppy biting their hands. Obviously that would be a different issue with our beagle or our Rottweiler. I trust the rott 100% with them. The beagle, 85%. They're still always supervised.

Statistically, dachshunds are the breed most likely to bite, followed by chihuahua and jack Russell terriers. Larger breeds are just more likely to cause enough damage that people decide to report it. That skews the prejudice quite a bit.

I assume mine is the older model. It's in good working condition. One vertical row of the display pixels is out, but it's nothing that affects your ability I read the times.

I think you're a tad high on the SV horsepower number, but it definitely is considerably more than the hawk. Maybe I need to go back and re-read, but what kind of top-speed potential is necessary for this project? If I recall, he explicitly wanted highway capability, but that was for rare occasions. If that's the case, a GS500 with clip-ons is just about perfect. Best chassis out of all the cheap bikes out there. Shouldn't need to break a grand buying one.