natedogg624

35k now. going to check the fuel pump wednesday (after finals week) before i take off the carbs again.

i dont have stock sizes. the previous kit was the DJ kit. and the 150 is the smallest one available to me and it only came with two of them. 150x2, 155x2, and 158x2.

yea i've been using that guide. it's just weird because at one point throughout the whole summer it was correct and pulled hard all the way.

i've had this problem ongoing since end of last season and have tried to fix it myself but i am at a loss. its a 99 R6, stock air filter, slip on, factory pro 1.0 jet kit. 150 outers/155 inners, 2.75 turns out idle mix adjuster, 3rd clip down (middle) needle. problem: last week it would bog with a good amount of throttle input 75-100% throttle) at around 8k rpms (the known rich spot) all the way through to the redline. but this bog would go in and out, if i was at full throttle it would bog then go then bog then go, working its way through the rpms. however, i am not sure if the "go" part was my body moving forward from the change in acceleration from the bog letting off the throttle and then it reacting to the now ~75% throttle, make sense? so i dug into the carbs and found the inners and outers were flipped so i put them back the way they are supposed to be installed as well as double checked the rest of the settings and installed fresh/new spark plugs. the bike currently sits with the settings you see above. after i flipped the jets i took it out and there was a noticeable increase in the pull of the bike, so much so that i cracked the throttle and spun the back wheel (wet surface). i parked it satisfied for the night. took it out the next day when it was dry and noticed that the bog is still there, but less so and higher up the rpm's (~10-13k) and if i hold the throttle open it wont really "go" and get up to redline, only if i let off slightly will it continue to pull. so there is where i am at, hopefully someone here can help. i plan on calling factory pro tomorrow but was curious if i could get some answers/advice today while im not busy.

i was tired (last session), gave the kawi the inside line and experimenting with how early i could get on the gas with that line... good ending to the day.

extremely solid if you have a decent paint job. also, the 3M mounts that come with the package are really good as well. helmet mounts will be best with the 3M. check out my youtube videos for some ideas: http://www.youtube.com/natedogg624

the only thing 12" stacks look good on are semi's.

first the garage and then the bathroom. don't these chicks know they belong only in the kitchen unless called upon to the bedroom for recreational activities?

depending on next quarters schedule and if i can get this carb issue figured out im in.

been on for over a year and a half... it is safety wired though, maybe thats the difference.

i've used hairspray for my past three grip sets, nothing wrong with it as long as you get the extra hold stuff.

you didn't use the good hairspray did you...

thats when you pull up beside them and knock their mirrors off and ride away.

that would be tight

i think he means with the actual setup... rebound/compression clicks, preload setting sag, etc...

beautiful pre spring break tanned legs here on campus and riding.

taking the motor out isn't too bad at all steve, just a few wire clips and hoses and of course the engine mount bolts. like brian said, label everything and bag it as well as lots of pics your first time. also as far as bolts and what not i like to follow the "put it back" method after i take them out so they are waiting for me exactly where they need to be.

make your own with a dremel is what i did rather than buy a 75 dollar (for me) specific tool. edit: reading fails me. i see you said you'd rather not make it... but just saying thats still what i would do.

once a season for me.

have you compared HP to the invisible glass? i dont mean to keep name dropping, im just curious.

its what i use and its awesome.

have you tried invisible glass?

pussy.

frame sliders: pucks that are attached to the frame either directly replacing the engine mount bolts (usually need to cut the fairings -- highly recommended) or by either a re locater bracket (no need to cut the fairings -- "no cuts") strongly NOT recommended for reasons involving tweaked and snapped frames (worst case scenario, plus a good "cut" job is just as good and many people on here are experienced to help you out. usually people will get frame sliders for when the little mistakes happen such as forgetting to put down the kickstand and the bike falls over or getting knocked over on accident (or on purpose), the bike will fall on these pucks instead of the fairings of the bike and preventing scratches. also in the severe case of a crash the bike will slide on these pucks instead of your painted fairings. one tip over on either side will usually pay for itself. as to the comment a few posts above, im not sure why you wouldn't put it on a street bike. i know of reasons not to put them on track bikes, but can you please post your reasonings? im curious as to your thoughts on it.

make sure you actually get your necessary gear first before your bike. i've had a few friends who bought the bike first and in doing so didn't have have enough money left over to spend on their gear.