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Pop mechanics know-it-all car quiz


Gump
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Well, you could, but I'm thinking that if you crank the engine, you could dump the clutch before letting go of the key without being really awkward about how long you're grasping the key... parked on a downhill you'd start moving before the engine was running.

im thinking the dude was exaggerating eh

 

but yes if your clutch safety sensor is inop, you just give some throttle, turn the key and off you go

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If it doesn't have a door sticker then go by whatever other method the manufacturer of the car uses to tell you. 

LMAO.. Sure.

 

*I will concede to the overwhelming amount of articles saying to use the cars suggested PSI but in non-oem situations and older cars with newer tires i'd still go with the tires max as a guide.

Edited by Gump
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im thinking the dude was exaggerating eh

but yes if your clutch safety sensor is inop, you just give some throttle, turn the key and off you go

When i drive the Dune buggy to work, and park on the hill, it's rolling before the engine starts.. Push the clutch she starts rolling forward, i can either hit the ignition and the starter button, or hit the ignition, put her in 2nd and dump the clutch...

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im thinking the dude was exaggerating eh

 

but yes if your clutch safety sensor is inop, you just give some throttle, turn the key and off you go

If im exaggerating it isnt by much. Ive never stood beside him to whatch but i would say its less than 1 second from the time the engine fires to him driving off like its the start of a drag race. Everyone gives him shit about it and his driving in general.

Edited by 20thGix
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LMAO.. Sure.

 

*I will concede to the overwhelming amount of articles saying to use the cars suggested PSI but in non-oem situations and older cars with newer tires i'd still go with the tires max as a guide.

 

Depends on what the max is.  If no recommendation exists I'd start at 32 and go up/down from there until you find the sweet spot between the heavy steering / low mpg of underinflation versus the super-light steering / low traction of overinflation.  And don't go above the tire max.

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Depends on what the max is. If no recommendation exists I'd start at 32 and go up/down from there until you find the sweet spot between the heavy steering / low mpg of underinflation versus the super-light steering / low traction of overinflation. And don't go above the tire max.

Still amazed at the overwhelming concensus to use the vehicles recommendation. Never have. Wonder what you do for trailers and lawnmowers.

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I use the door frame as a guideline and adjust up and down from there, but don't exceed the max pressure that is on the tires sidewall.

As for trailers, my trailer has a gvw of 1300lbs. Tires are load range of 1000 so the trailer fully loaded is about 75% of the tires max load. My tires have a max psi of 80 so I run them at 60psi. Less load, less air.

Can't speak for lawn mowers, don't need one.

Edited by dustinsn3485
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Bite me. Could happen. I have tires in my barn, if they fit, I'd use them. I never use the vehicles suggestion. The question is for normal people who live in a city with no resources and follow the sheep herders directions. ;)

 

 

i just can't fathom any scenario where one would think that driving on 20 year old tires is a good idea. maybe if they were somehow hermetically sealed or something... but a tire you find lying around in the barn? no way... thats just asking for a tire to come apart. gonna cost more to repair all the damage from the wreck than you save by putting some random tire on. 

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i just can't fathom any scenario where one would think that driving on 20 year old tires is a good idea. maybe if they were somehow hermetically sealed or something... but a tire you find lying around in the barn? no way... thats just asking for a tire to come apart. gonna cost more to repair all the damage from the wreck than you save by putting some random tire on. 

 

 

The 33" tires on the back of my dune buggy could very well be that old, and the low pro fronts I've had laying around for at least 10 years... And i bought them second hand.

 

I see no serious danger in driving on these tires... they hold air just fine, and they haven't given me any sign that they can't hold up to the small amount of punishment i give them...

 

Motorcycle tires? NO WAY, but on some random commuter car? Why not? Tire failure will in all likelihood just result in a flat, which my 7 yr old niece can change with a spare...

Edited by magley64
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i just can't fathom any scenario where one would think that driving on 20 year old tires is a good idea. maybe if they were somehow hermetically sealed or something... but a tire you find lying around in the barn? no way... thats just asking for a tire to come apart. gonna cost more to repair all the damage from the wreck than you save by putting some random tire on. 

I have taken tires in to have mounted and been turned down because they were too old, and they weren't 20 yrs old, more like 5 or so.  That was at Discount Tire.

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I have taken tires in to have mounted and been turned down because they were too old, and they weren't 20 yrs old, more like 5 or so.  That was at Discount Tire.

 

Why wouldn't you just mount them yourself?

 

It's not like it's difficult... even if you just use a couple old tire irons to do it...(not that spoons are expensive)

Edited by magley64
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I take both the door jam and the max tire pressure into account I also pull a heavy trailer so I normally run very close to max pressure on the tire. The wheel will handle it, the tire is made to the specs On the tire. Especially when I could be putting c,d,e load tires on. Way different max pressures. Also different ply tires require different pressures. I'd say that if you always ran the same tire as what comes on a car stick the door jam would be very close. But who does that stock tires are junk compared to what you can put on there next. IMHO

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The 33" tires on the back of my dune buggy could very well be that old, and the low pro fronts I've had laying around for at least 10 years... And i bought them second hand.

 

I see no serious danger in driving on these tires... they hold air just fine, and they haven't given me any sign that they can't hold up to the small amount of punishment i give them...

 

Motorcycle tires? NO WAY, but on some random commuter car? Why not? Tire failure will in all likelihood just result in a flat, which my 7 yr old niece can change with a spare...

 

rubber deteriorates and it may LOOK fine, but could still blow out or go flat. there is no way to determine this by looking at it. do you feel lucky? sure it could just go flat... or it could blow out too.  would it matter if your tire blew and ripped off your fender or sent you into oncoming traffic?

 

personally, id rather be safe than sorry.  and its not just about MY feelings either.  there are other people on the road too... i can not rationalize knowingly operating an unsafe vehicle in order to save a few bones. 

Edited by John
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 i can not rationalize knowingly operating an unsafe vehicle in order to save a few bones. 

 

LOL well in that case... the tires are by far the LEAST unsafe part of that vehicle.. twitchy steering, super short wheel base, fiberglass body, lap belt seatbelts, no roof, thin drum brakes all around... I could go on and on... the car is a screaming metal death trap, and it is so much fun.

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i had some michelins on my last car, leaked air out the sidewalls which were all cracked up.  I added some of that tire sealant that comes in a can and put several thousand more miles on before selling the car, and I drove it like it was my last day, also had two plugs in it.

 

good quality tires can take a beating-  but firestones...?

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i had some michelins on my last car, leaked air out the sidewalls which were all cracked up.  I added some of that tire sealant that comes in a can and put several thousand more miles on before selling the car, and I drove it like it was my last day, also had two plugs in it.

 

good quality tires can take a beating-  but firestones...?

I use to run with plugs in big truck tires/car tires all the time. No one ever told me they were supposed to be temporary and I never had any problems.

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I run max tire inflation, whatever is on the tire sidewall. I don't have problems with traction or uneven wear. I want the least rolling resistance= +mpg. In my Silverado the tires were rated to 80psi and that's what I put in them even though the sticker said 50. My Tundra, current vehicle the tires are rated for 35psi and that's what's in them, maybe closer to 38. I think it calls for 32psi.

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I run max tire inflation, whatever is on the tire sidewall. I don't have problems with traction or uneven wear. I want the least rolling resistance= +mpg. In my Silverado the tires were rated to 80psi and that's what I put in them even though the sticker said 50. My Tundra, current vehicle the tires are rated for 35psi and that's what's in them, maybe closer to 38. I think it calls for 32psi.

 

You don't count in this discussion.  With all due respect...  :lol:

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I usually check my tire pressure in the summer.  I never set it at the max, usually  a few pounds under, but never more than 5.  Since pressure increases about a pound for every ten degrees of outside temp increase, when things warms up I check them again and readjust.  I also check pressure if I am going to haul anything really heavy and do so based on current temps.  Since I always buy tires sized properly for the car or pickup, I do not worry about what the door panel recommends for tire pressures.  I have always felt the tire manufacturer knows better what is best for their tire.  So far so good....

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That's my method... I usually put them 4psi below max for car tires... Truck tires I usually don't inflate that much unless I'm hauling... My truck max was 62psi and I ran them around 50-52 unless hauling something heavy I'd bump up to 60... I never go by the sticker (doesn't make it the correct way though still lol)

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