Let's discuss pole barns!

[cmh_sprint]

You may have to be CAUV. which means you grow or raise and sell something and I thought that had to be 10 continuous acres. Hence, why cows are a good ideas for me.

 Correct. For 10 acres or less you have to prove you made $2000 off the crop or land usage. More than 10 and you just fill out a paper with what you are using the land for and how many acres are being used. The local county may or may not inspect the land at any given point to ensure your CAUV is valid. Once you get CAUV never get rid of it or you pay 3 years in back taxes.

[madcat6183]

Guy who was at the races this weekend with us said he just built his 2nd and did a 40x60 16 high ceilings and has a 2nd floor he uses.  Full concrete floor with heated floors, said it's the only way to go.  Never thought about that before, but he has several classic muscle cars and lifts and said after working all day at the air base the last thing he wants to stand on is cold concrete.

 

Said he did it himself and was actually pretty cheap. 

[max power]

So what is pretty cheap?

[madcat6183]

The materials to heat the floors, sorry I think I am still drunk from the weekend and just babbling about random stuff that I remember him telling me.

[Tpoppa]

The materials to heat the floors, sorry I think I am still drunk from the weekend and just babbling about random stuff that I remember him telling me.

 

Tubing (installed when the concrete is poured), a circulating pump (Bell & Gosset), and a boiler is really the whole system.

 

Or you can do the old farmer trick and instead of a boiler route the tubing through a giant pile of manure.   Really.

[max power]

What kind of boiler is needed for this? Also, does it actually heat his barn, or just make the floor warm?

[Tpoppa]

If it were me heating a floor, I'd save on the headaches and maintenance and go electric with something like this

http://www.thermosoft.com/radiant-floor-heating/TT30-240?gclid=CIe655OL0sACFYZaMgodhDUAJA

[max power]

Wasn't planning to tile the shop floor though.

$360 for 45 ft.² seems pretty high, but again, I don't know what the materials to do the concrete liquid heat are either.

[cmh_sprint]

Another option is to head your barn as you plan and hand IR heaters in the areas where you will spend most of your time in the winter months. IR will heat the pad and reflect heat back up. Options to use either propane or electric as the heat source.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200455657_200455657

 

as an example

[madcat6183]

Our race shop uses gas infared heat ; http://www.grainger.com/product/7DC29?cm_mmc%3Dppc%3Agoogleplac-_-HVAC%20and%20Refrigeration-_-Gas%20Heaters%20and%20Accessories-_-7DC29%26ci_src%3D14110944%26ci_sku%3D7DC29

They park 3 cars in there at a time, plus 1-2 plow trucks depending, I would guess his to be about 20 feet long, and it's like an oven in there. No idea what he pays for gas but his house is a smaller ranch gas heat as well.

I think the guy who put it in his floor was more for heating the concrete slightly, then he said most likely will be using a pellet stove inside for the rest. He commented that the wood outside stoves eat wood, but he didn't care cuz his neighbor owns the biggest tree company in Richland county so free wood year round.

In the end, honestly, I only know that Chumleys electric heater in his 20x40 bay is about the worst idea ever. He has bills of over 700 a month during last winter, that I know for a 100% fact. That's a super basic setup, but he also keeps it warm in there, like 75, and runs a space heater on himself too. I do know it's like a normal house electric unit, not like a true garage/shop heater. He has ductwork, like those round tubes that downsize every 5 feet to a smaller diameter.

That's the 1 thing I 100% wouldn't do for something like that.

My dad runs something like this in his 6 car attached garage and keeps it about 65 in the winter and works fine but said he would go to infared NG next time they build. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_595_595?utm_source=Natural&utm_medium=Covario&utm_campaign=

His is way bigger than that unit though.

Edited September 8, 2014 by madcat6183

[redkow97]

The materials to heat the floors, sorry I think I am still drunk from the weekend and just babbling about random stuff that I remember him telling me.

 

when he said "so what is pretty cheap?" I think he meant how much money do you consider "pretty cheap" in this scenario.  I'm not in the know on pole-barns.  My idea of cheap may be wildly different than someone who knows what a pro would charge.

[madcat6183]

Oh no idea, I don't know the guy well enough to dip into $ talk.  I know he has a good amount but he also lives in Mansfield, so he doesn't have that much lol.

 

Im guessing he spent some good coin on it, but sounds worth it to him, maybe not all, but I know he's out there from the minute hes off work until he goes to bed.  If I was going to do that, I'd make the place the ritz carlton. 

[max power]

So does anybody have the floor heating system in their pole barn? I'm curious if it actually keeps the barn warm or just warms the floor. I keep getting different answers to this question from different people, but none of them actually have this system in their barn.

[MidgetTodd]

It is not going to keep the barn warm

[Helmutt]

It is not going to keep the barn warm

This ^^^ Even with a fully insulated interior, it wouldn't be enough to heat the building. Dealership I work for has liquid floor heat in the shop's dyno room and wash bay since they aren't heated, and it does nothing to regulate room temps. And these are well insulated bays, too. The rest of the shop has NG radiant and it works great. Even with bay doors going up and down all day through the winter, it keeps the shop about 65 degrees on average. No idea what company installed the systems, but it's industrial sized equip since our building has 30 ft ceilings and 26 bays, so it was definitely expensive.

[max power]

Ok. Pointless to spend cash on then. Still looking at heating and cooling options.

[Gump]

You should tap a line into your septic tank from the pole barn. I assume you'll have water in it. Nothing worse than an unexpected turtle head.

[max power]

My poops are very well planned. Was planning to run water out there, but not septic.

Would like to find a waterless urinal to hang on the wall and run a pipe outside.

Edited September 24, 2014 by max power

[Gump]

My poops are very well planned. Was planning to run water out there, but not septic.

Would like to find a waterless urinal to hang on the wall and run a pipe outside.

You're getting older. If your tanks are down from the pole barn it's to inexpensive not to do it.

Not a fan of waterless urinals. I can get you the thing you put in a urinal to make it supposedly waterless.

Edited September 24, 2014 by Gump

[madcat6183]

You're getting older. If your tanks are down from the pole barn it's to inexpensive not to do it.

Not a fan of waterless urinals. I can get you the thing you put in a urinal to make it supposedly waterless.

Agreed 100%, do it now vs later, this is Jim's biggest complaint with his pole barn and his septic is in fact below the barn floor, would flow straight in with no issues, but the builder didn't do water or septic.  No way I would ever build one without a crapper in it, especially if running water anyways.

[Gump]

I was quoted around $2500 for a tank and pump to pump the waste to my septic tank which us uphill. Pump, not a grinder. Lot less if you do it yourself I imagine. I think the expense vs. Increase in resale value is a no brainer.

[max power]

The septic system is at least 200' away.

[Gump]

2" pipe

[max power]

Gonna screw a funnel to the wall and run a hose outside.

[max power]

So anyone want to post up some sizes and prices that they paid to build?

Prices seem to be all over the place.