Gump Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Gonna screw a funnel to the wall and run a hose outside.Where do u put the T.P.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Where do u put the T.P.?TP? You got to wipe your pussy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 TP? You got to wipe your pussy?Nice switch, Capone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiomike Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 If I were doing it again, I would install in floor heating, probably water heat, in combo with a forced air furnace using whateever fuel source is easiest and cheapest to get there. The each system should help keep the other system from having to be used too much resulting in an overall savings. I would add a few ceiling fans to help push air and run power out there by means of a sub panel if possible. Not sure what all you plan on doing, but I would think 150 amp's is sufficient. Bring power <in pipe> in underground if you can along with water and a couple of spare empty pipes <1" would work> for future needs. If the building is not visible from the road I would not bother with a permit. Thing is, I wouldn't be surprised to find out the jurisdiction you are in might now find out when you insure the additional building or for some other reason. In this day of electronic bs seems all these places are linked. If you choose to get a permit, build the basic structure <no floor, no electric, no amenities>, get the permit ok'd, the have at her. Tell them its just for storage. I've done this before and it works, but that was 20 yrs ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Nice switch, Capone.I'll put in a poopin chair and trash bags just for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 If I were doing it again, I would install in floor heating, probably water heat, in combo with a forced air furnace using whateever fuel source is easiest and cheapest to get there. The each system should help keep the other system from having to be used too much resulting in an overall savings. I would add a few ceiling fans to help push air and run power out there by means of a sub panel if possible. Not sure what all you plan on doing, but I would think 150 amp's is sufficient. Bring power <in pipe> in underground if you can along with water and a couple of spare empty pipes <1" would work> for future needs. If the building is not visible from the road I would not bother with a permit. Thing is, I wouldn't be surprised to find out the jurisdiction you are in might now find out when you insure the additional building or for some other reason. In this day of electronic bs seems all these places are linked. If you choose to get a permit, build the basic structure <no floor, no electric, no amenities>, get the permit ok'd, the have at her. Tell them its just for storage.I've done this before and it works, but that was 20 yrs ago.Thanks Mike. I'm still thinking about using the fuel oil boiler from the house to heat the floor, but the piping is pretty expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiomike Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Don't they now use PEX tubing? Seems its pretty reasonable and can be picked up locally at Menards and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Don't know, just going off what I've been told. If friend of mine has a 32 x 64 barn and he tubed it all and said it was $1500 just for the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiomike Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 I've never done a quote for it, but I ran across this... http://www.houseneeds.com/learning-center/pex-tubing-radiant-floor-heating/pex-radiant-floor-heat-new- Not sure it applies to your needs, I was just digging around and found it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carwhore Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 graber builders http://graber4polebarns.com/our-products/pole-building-packages/ these guys going are going to do my building. I haven't checked with 64, but im sure they are cheaper. plus their amish so they know how to build a barn! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackFlash Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 (edited) I used to own a car wash that had floor heat. You need a boiler/heater and a circulating pump. They usually use glycol instead of water. Aspecial kind of tubing needs to be installedinside the concrete as it's being poured. Itworks well, but not a very efficient heat source. A concrete floor needs insulation from theearth below. "Heat loss from the edge and underside of a heated slab on grade can be substantial, especially in areas with high water tables or where the slab rests on bedrock. Edge and underslab insulation are essential in reducing these losses. They are a necessary part of any quality floor heating system. Not taking steps to mitigate such heat loss is like leaving the windows open throughout the winter." http://www.radiantheatproducts.com/Slab_on_Grade_Heat.php Like how much it costs at the moment andhow much area does a square yard actuallyfill at 4" or 6"? One Cubic Yard of Concrete … 4-inches thick - covers 81 square feet.5-inches thick - covers 65 square feet.6-inches thick - covers 54 square feet. http://www.schlosserconcrete.com/Concrete-Calculator.html $75 per cubic yard *National Average in 2008. http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-prices.html To determine the amount of materials you need in cubic yards, you must first convert all three dimensions to the same unit of measurement. There are:27 cubic feet in one cubic yard (3’ x 3’ x 3’)46,656 cubic inches in one cubic yard (36” x 36” x 36”)For example, to find the amount of concrete needed for a slab 6” thick by 12’ long by 12’ wide:Convert the dimension in inches to feet (6” ÷ 12” = 0.5’) Multiply the three dimensions together to find the number of cubic feet (0.5’ x 12’ x 12 = 72 cubic feet) Divide the cubic feet by the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard (27) to find the number of cubic yards (72 ÷ 27 = 2.67 cu. yd.).You can find the same result by converting all three dimensions to yards by:Convert the dimension in inches to yards (6” ÷ 36” = 0.167 yards) Convert the dimensions in feet to yards (12’ ÷ 3 = 4 yards) Multiply the three dimensions together to find the number of cubic yards (0.167 x 4 x 4 = 2.67 cu. yd.)http://www.todayshomeowner.com/cubic-yard-calculator/ . Edited October 6, 2014 by JackFlash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiomike Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 We always put a base of sand and gravel under pourings. I had a pad poured down here and they just poured it right on the clay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Chumley has some 5 gal bucket that came with a mounted toilet seat, and comes with bags that are custom fit. Not kidding. Just in case its an emergency. Not sure he's used it, but not going to lift the lid to check. I know what my kids diaper pail smells like, not chancing it with my FIL . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Max,Your priorities have run amuck. No flushing pooper but heated flooring.....at the least you could flush mount the pooping funnel on the warm concrete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackFlash Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting_toilet I would also consider some solar applicationsfor heating and cooling. . Edited October 7, 2014 by JackFlash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Local too; http://columbus.craigslist.org/for/4680068166.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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