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Zero Turn vs. Tractor


Cdubyah

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Need thoughts from the collective brain trust.

The wife and I are purchasing a larger piece of property with 2.2 acres to mow.

The current owner has a Bush Hog zero turn mower that he is willing to sell. Although I'm not sure if I need that high end of a mower to do the job. It was purchased in 2014 for $7800. I was thinking about offering $5k for it. The other option would be to buy a different zero turn brand new for less.

OR buy a tractor syle utikity mower that I can also use to plow snow in the winter.

I like the speed of the zero turn, but I like the utility of a tractor.

Thoughts?

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I had to remind myself that you're in columbus, so the plowing load is a lot different than in NEO, but I have never known anyone locally who is happy with the job their lawn tractor does plowing snow.  

 

The lone exception is a friend of mine whose father bought a really high-end AWD lawn tractor with a hinged chassis.  It wasn't quite a zero-turn, but it was pretty badass.  The AWD and the fact that it was probably a Husqvarna engine made it decent in the snow.

 

If you're serious about spending $5k on a mower,  I would try to find a 4x4 quad with a plow, and then purchase something like this: FC1966BS_12572_600.jpg

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I think this is all overkill for 2 acres and Columbus snow.

I got a used 25 horse 50" mower for a few hundred and it knocks out my 3+1/2 acres in about an hour.

I bought a little 5 horse craftsman snow blower with tank tracks for less than 100,

It knocks out my horse shoe driveway in 45 mins with a foot or so of accumulation.

Edited by magley64
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Between myself and my old man we mow about 3.5a. Maybe 2.5 by the time you figure in all buildings and driveways. I have my yard turd tractor with a 46" deck on it and can mowit all I'm about 2 hours strait. My dad has a 60" Cub and take it about hour and 20 min. Just to give you some compare times.

Edited by 2talltim
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If you want a no fuss, efficient way to mow the lawn, get the zero turn. Pull behinds, side discharge, are nice for wide open spaces with no trees. A pull behind used alone would be a serious pain in the ass with trees. I use a zero turn, pulling a tow behind with rear discharge simply to chop up what the zero turn left behind so I don't need to go back over it, but I disconnect the pull behind once the large no tree areas are done. It's over kill but comes in handy when you miss a week or two and the grass is high.

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I say

 

If you plan on doing a lot of yard manipulation (want to move dirt, haul, push snow, etc.) get a tractor with hydraulics and easy changing attachments.

If you plan on just mowing grass get something fast and big, like a zero turn.

 

If you plan to just mow the lawn and want some exercise, get a walk behind zero turn.

 

I have almost a quarter acre lot and I have a tractor, but I got it for free. I'd probably push mow or get a zero turn if I didn't have the tractor. I do plow my driveway with my tractor, but it doesn't have hydraulics (pain to get the plow on and off every year). There is a lot involved with plowing on a tractor that you likely wouldn't normally think about if you've never plowed before. There are some significant limitations like speed, weight, grip, etc. I can move a lot of snow with mine, but if I don't have enough weight and speed on my tractor to push it up the hill on my driveway, it turns into a project.

 

Based on what you are providing, I say walk behind mower (zero turn)

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Alot of trees. Some are large, some are small.

I guess I should have clarified the snow comment...anything to get snow out of 200 ft of driveway.

Might see if the old man is willing to part with his old snow blower. He just picked up a nice tractor this year and was planning to buy a blower attachment for it.

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Alot of trees. Some are large, some are small.

I guess I should have clarified the snow comment...anything to get snow out of 200 ft of driveway.

Might see if the old man is willing to part with his old snow blower. He just picked up a nice tractor this year and was planning to buy a blower attachment for it.

 

Lots of trees and trimming says ZTR over tractor, hands down!!!  Whether you buy the owner's or find one on CL/Ebay is a wash.  Big depreciation on lawn equipment, so if his unit is in decent shape, I'd start maybe 50% of retail...my top offer would be $4000ish.  If he's selling to buy another property, he can take it with him; if he's buying a condo and getting out of the grass cutting mode, he'd be better off selling it to you.  He won't be too likely to get more for a 2 yo mower selling it on the open market, and you've got nothing to lose if he says "No!"  The walk-behind blower is a cheap and easy way to get rid of snow without having to store large seasonal yard items.  Definitely my vote!!!

 

That being said, if you plan on needing more heavy duty yard tools like a front loader, tiller, etc, then a tractor becomes a more viable option.

Edited by Bubba
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I have had a Cub Cadet with both a plow and a blower. Bought the blower because with the plow It was a PITA to clean out the end of the drive after the state plowed it shut(2 lanes of a 4 lane). Plus I would run out of room to put the snow. With a blower you have no piles and never run out of a place to put the snow. One drawback is that if you have a concrete drive the chains will bark it up a bit. Had that setup from 1975 to 2003. It was a 1968 tractor that I bought for 300 bucks.Bought a zero turn when I moved and a stand alone snowblower. That gets my vote. faster cut,better cut and it makes my leaves disappear in the fall.I like the walk behind blower for the exercise. Trees or not a zero turn is faster.

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I have had a Cub Cadet with both a plow and a blower. Bought the blower because with the plow It was a PITA to clean out the end of the drive after the state plowed it shut(2 lanes of a 4 lane). Plus I would run out of room to put the snow. With a blower you have no piles and never run out of a place to put the snow. One drawback is that if you have a concrete drive the chains will bark it up a bit. Had that setup from 1975 to 2003. It was a 1968 tractor that I bought for 300 bucks.Bought a zero turn when I moved and a stand alone snowblower. That gets my vote. faster cut,better cut and it makes my leaves disappear in the fall.I like the walk behind blower for the exercise. Trees or not a zero turn is faster.

Not to derail the thread but I've always wondered how you snow blow a gravel driveway? Control the height? Last thing I want is rocks thrown in my yard" I keep the height up on the plow.

Edited by Gump
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Not to derail the thread but I've always wondered how you snow blow a gravel driveway? Control the height? Last thing I want is rocks thrown in my yard" I keep the height up on the plow.

My tracks adjust, allows me to adjust height by angle.

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Just went through this in the spring. First question is, do you have any steep hills to mow. Zero turn sucks on hills. But since you have trees, I would definitely get a zero turn over a tractor.

Two lies I've seen so far and I hope I don't create any butt hurt. Zero turns hold their value like Harleys. Buying a used one that is in decent shape is almost not worth it. Especially with 0% interest which is why I bought a new one. The other thing, there is no Fucking Way Magley is mowing 3 1/2 acres in an hour on a rider. That's either a lie or he has a turbocharged jet powered lawnmower on flat ground with no trees.

Don't waste your money on some piece of shit box store zero turn. If you're going to be there for a long time, spend the cash now and buy a commercial quality Mauer. Stick with the big name brands like hustler, X Mark, Ferris, John Deere, etc.

You want a Kawasaki or Briggs vanguard engine and the highest cc wheel motors you can get. I prefer separate hydraulic reservoir's and separate pumps and we wheel motors over the combined units. Easier to service and replace down the road.

Lastly, if you are looking at new units, ask the dealer to bring them out and test them on your property. Everyone of them is different and you want to find one that you are comfortable with before pulling the trigger.

If you are looking at used units, test drive them also and get underneath them and look for anything leaking. You do not want any mower that is leaking oil or hydraulic fluid. Bonus points if they have maintenance records.

1000 hours is equivalent to 100,000 miles. And attention two hours. Don't buy any unit that was owned by a lawn care company. They won't brag that they have been well-maintained but they've also been beaten to death by Mexicans.

There is lots to learn so do your homework and buy quality. There's a lot of junk zero turns out there.

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Just went through this in the spring. First question is, do you have any steep hills to mow. Zero turn sucks on hills. But since you have trees, I would definitely get a zero turn over a tractor.

Two lies I've seen so far and I hope I don't create any butt hurt. Zero turns hold their value like Harleys. Buying a used one that is in decent shape is almost not worth it. Especially with 0% interest which is why I bought a new one. The other thing, there is no Fucking Way Magley is mowing 3 1/2 acres in an hour on a rider. That's either a lie or he has a turbocharged jet powered lawnmower on flat ground with no trees.

Don't waste your money on some piece of shit box store zero turn. If you're going to be there for a long time, spend the cash now and buy a commercial quality Mauer. Stick with the big name brands like hustler, X Mark, Ferris, John Deere, etc.

You want a Kawasaki or Briggs vanguard engine and the highest cc wheel motors you can get. I prefer separate hydraulic reservoir's and separate pumps and we wheel motors over the combined units. Easier to service and replace down the road.

Lastly, if you are looking at new units, ask the dealer to bring them out and test them on your property. Everyone of them is different and you want to find one that you are comfortable with before pulling the trigger.

If you are looking at used units, test drive them also and get underneath them and look for anything leaking. You do not want any mower that is leaking oil or hydraulic fluid. Bonus points if they have maintenance records.

1000 hours is equivalent to 100,000 miles. And attention two hours. Don't buy any unit that was owned by a lawn care company. They won't brag that they have been well-maintained but they've also been beaten to death by Mexicans.

There is lots to learn so do your homework and buy quality. There's a lot of junk zero turns out there.

This.  But I will say he is mowing a lot less than you MP so may not need a 720000 inch deck ;)   But yea MP just went through all of this but I believe mows a ton more than you are looking at.

 

FWIW  when I had my Gravely it was a 34in and was "suitable" for up to 1.5 acres, and I imagine that would be about 90 minutes with that small of deck at a good pace.

 

Definitely get new with 0% like MP said too over buying some POS off Craigs that's been beat to holy fuck by some yard crew or johnny badass who mows over every log he can and never slows down.

 

MP update on Chumley, health is looking much better.  Dumping close to 10K into this sick fucking golfcart that will have a 750cc motor in it by end of winter.  Not making this up.  I have pics......  But in the end health looks better, thing he's staying at the Ponderosa for a while longer.  

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You guys like mowing your yard, or look at it like a chore?

I love mowing mine. Don't know why, one of the capillaries in my brain must be fucked up.

Riding the bike, mowing the grass, having a few beers by the grill, that's part of a great summer right there.

Anyway, I have a 10 year old Husqvarna rider from Lowes, 46" deck, do my 150 foot driveway with a 26" snowblower. 4 passes, done.

Neighbor has a ZTN, no cup holder.

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Chore if I have better things to do and the ztn has a cup holder. I've mounted tension adjustable bicycle pedals on it to exercise while mowing and am patenting the idea.

:lol: you're either a genius or retarded.

I only have a 52" deck. That's another consideration. I have some steep hills and rolling landscape. If your property is perfectly flat, get as big a deck as you can. If you have hills or rolling landscape, consider a smaller deck as the bigger it is, the more scalping you will get.

Awesome to hear that chumley is doing better.

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