TimTheAzn Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 I also had melted connectors and leads. I ended up cutting them and soldering them together, which ended up costing me more money when I took it in for the recall, because I had to pay for a new harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Batteries: It's worthwhile to get a "good" battery. The junk they sell at Wallmart, etc. is very sensitive to vibration and impacts. Harris sells good stuff if you have an outlet around. R/R's: They do get hot, and that's normal. Its actually better to have a substantial load on your system to take some of the load off your R/R. So if you've done something to lighten the load, like exchange regular headlights with LEDs, then that can cause overheating. Updating to a better type R/R is worthwhile, but leave that install to someone with experience. Connectors: Disconnect them, inspect for burn marks/overheating, clean them with a contact cleaner, then coat them with Dielectric Grease before reassembly. Volt/Ohm/Amp meters: Careful! When set to Ohms, there is a direct short from red to black, so to clarify, do not check "VOM continuity across the battery leads..." in the "OHM" setting....use DC VOLTS setting. When checking the phases on your stator the "Should be less than 1.0 ohms" can be influenced by your meter and the meter test leads. So, it may show a little more than 1.0 ohms. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 And don't use a shitty AutoZone meter you bought in the bargain bin for $10. Have some pride. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacobhawkins Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 1 hour ago, Pauly said: And don't use a shitty AutoZone meter you bought in the bargain bin for $10. Have some pride. Something about quality and only crying once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 3 hours ago, Pauly said: And don't use a shitty AutoZone meter you bought in the bargain bin for $10. Have some pride. Yea what he said, why pay for a shitty one? 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 You all deserve to be stranded and left for dead in the mountains. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 22 hours ago, motocat12 said: https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Thermal-Camera/FLIR-i7/ That's a good idea. Should work reasonably well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Edited previous post to say VOM check for ohms continuity across disconnected battery leads. Obvious to me, but needs to be said out loud. Sometimes a vehicle circuit will have something that puts a constant drain on the battery. Like the clock in the dash. Pull fuses one at a time to see where something leaks to ground. (Or pull all and try one at a time.) I once found my "leak" was one of the three diodes in the alternator had gone bad and shorted to ground. Bought diode trio and rebuilt the alternator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 11 hours ago, Pauly said: And don't use a shitty AutoZone meter you bought in the bargain bin for $10. Have some pride. Even quality rulers can be sabotaged by user error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 1 hour ago, motocat12 said: Even quality rulers can be sabotaged by user error Eat. A. Penis. I was not sober. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) So anyway, logic says check what your batteries are being given first. Check and verify the stator, rectifier and wiring on up to the battery. All that's in the charging circuit. (Check and clean the battery connection to frame ground, both ends.) I wish I could say it's easy to check ampere output of a stator, but it isn't. I usually settle for checking the stator coils for shorts and opens. Might also be hard to check a rectifier, but I have seen specs and methods to do so. Although I often simply bought a new one to try. And check the main fuse (and all connections there), since it's usually between the stator and the battery. Make sure it's not getting hot and using up amps. Fuses shouldn't get hot. edit: Found a basic diagnostic method: http://motorcyclemd.com/how-to-fully-troubleshoot-your-motorcycles-charging-system/ Edited January 4, 2018 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marlboro man Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Don’t live in the fuking desert your shit don’t get overheated 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 I just ordered a lot of 8ga maxi fuse holders to upgrade my main fuse holder like I've seen VFR fixer's do. I plan to make and adapter to use std fuse spares for on the road emergency backup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Sadly, I've been too involved with work and school lately to put any time or effort into the bike... It's just been sitting... I bought shit for an oil change and plan to clean it up and get it back on the road in the next couple weeks... I'm still planning on following the tests here and will post results whenever I get around to it lol... I really just want to sell the damn thing, but I'm too attached to it so it's probably not going anywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 On 1/6/2018 at 7:05 PM, marlboro man said: Don’t live in the fuking desert your shit don’t get overheated This bubby makes an interesting point.... Do yall think the batteries could just be burning out early due to the heat out here? I've never owned another bike here to compare. I do most of my riding in triple digit temps, days where it's cooler are usually a little chilly in the morning when im leaving the house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 59 minutes ago, Steve Butters said: This bubby makes an interesting point.... Do yall think the batteries could just be burning out early due to the heat out here? I've never owned another bike here to compare. I do most of my riding in triple digit temps, days where it's cooler are usually a little chilly in the morning when im leaving the house Ok, I have to ask, what do you consider chilly now? Because I rode in high 30's low 40s on the way to work today..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 16 minutes ago, TimTheAzn said: Ok, I have to ask, what do you consider chilly now? Because I rode in high 30's low 40s on the way to work today..... I used to ride in the snow in Ohio lol... Some mornings so cold the vfr temp gauge wouldn't even register... I understand the diff between chilly and cold... But my bike has no storage and temp between morning and night varies 30-40 degrees... If I leave for work at 5am and it's 60 degrees out then it's in the 90s coming home... I can dress for the ride but not for both... Either hot or cold one way... In the summer it's like 80 in the morn and perfect to ride... I'll sweat in the afternoon but I'm heading home then so idc ...but leaving my house at 5am bundled up and then riding home bundled up in 90 degrees is no fun, my car works just fine for commuting in all temps lol.... Anything less than 70 is chilly out here... Yall laugh when I say it, but it's a lot diff environment... The temp number isnt everything... 80-90 is perfect windows down and riding temp here, but in Ohio it's hot af at 90...same goes for the cold... 70 here is a lot cooler than 70 in Ohio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Steve Butters said: I used to ride in the snow in Ohio lol... Some mornings so cold the vfr temp gauge wouldn't even register... I understand the diff between chilly and cold... But my bike has no storage and temp between morning and night varies 30-40 degrees... If I leave for work at 5am and it's 60 degrees out then it's in the 90s coming home... I can dress for the ride but not for both... Either hot or cold one way... In the summer it's like 80 in the morn and perfect to ride... I'll sweat in the afternoon but I'm heading home then so idc ...but leaving my house at 5am bundled up and then riding home bundled up in 90 degrees is no fun, my car works just fine for commuting in all temps lol.... Anything less than 70 is chilly out here... Yall laugh when I say it, but it's a lot diff environment... The temp number isnt everything... 80-90 is perfect windows down and riding temp here, but in Ohio it's hot af at 90...same goes for the cold... 70 here is a lot cooler than 70 in Ohio Less humidity. I understand that from living in Houston LOL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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