Jump to content

Car won't start


Tulo

Recommended Posts

I have the rev hard turbo kit on my 01 GSR. I installed 550cc injectors and am running -48% - -42% on my VAFC. I probably should have taken my vortech FMU and missing link off before the test run, but I didn't. It started right up and ran fine, so I went into boost in first through third a couple times, then the car just died after the last run. I have not been able to start it since. I have since taken the FMU off, but it still will not start. It had to of been running insanely rich. Also, my boost gauge used to read about -7psi when the key was in the on position before I started the engine, now it reads 0psi before I try to start it. Any ideas on what my problem could be? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, -JP.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the mad scientist and I tore it apart today. Timing is good, i'm getting air, fuel, and spark. Compression was about 100psi on each cylinder :( I don't understand how I could have fucked it up that much, that fast, running that rich. :confused: This really sucks. graemlins/thumbsdown.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you checked the fuses? doesn't say in the post anywere? Also if its like most cars I know of it won't start without the MAF sensor and who knows how many others working. the MAF will definately keep it from starting. Does it even try to start like turn over ignite some fuel, kick over and then stop or what?

 

Evan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need to check everything again if the motor turns over and you have good compression you are missing either fuel or spark. are you sure the injectors didn't somehow become unsychronized from the ignition if thats possible on a honda product. you seem to have a very simple problem your just making it more than it is. check ALL of your wiring connectoins and make sure nothing came unplugged check fuses and basic stuff also do a leak down test it makes compression , but does it hold it even a piston with a cracked ring land or a hole will make a little it just can't hold it.

 

HTH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did you do a sensor check on the afc to see if it looked normal? sounds like something electrical...if the sensor wire came loose from the afc it may not start.if that all checks out try the coil...a couple people have had problems with those recently.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Dave Sigman:

you need to check everything again if the motor turns over and you have good compression you are missing either fuel or spark.

I was under the impression that 100psi was not good compression? :confused:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's not good compression,it should still start though. are you confident in your test results?did you remove all the plugs and block the throttle plate open? seems kinda weird that you would wreck all your cylinders at the same time.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

its not the amount of compression you have but the variance between cylinders as long as all the numbers were with in 5 percent or so of each other the motor is fine.

 

I know its probably a bitch but could you unhook the turbo and set it up na stock and see if it runs then. I still think something just came unplugged or a wire broke somewhere

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Tulo.:

How can I check to make sure that my injectors are working properly?

Most haynes manuals have a procedure where you can test resisitance with an ohm meter. Take the positive and negative connectors and connect them from the meter, from what I remember, anything above 0 resistance is good.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

100 psi is way too low. and since you said that the timing is correct something inside the engine is fucked. you need to take off the head and have yourself a look see. while it's not too common for all the cylinders to get fucked up, it's not entirely unheard of either.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ast long as all the cylinders have even compression i wouldn't worry too much about it. i don't know if this is true on cylinder cars but on rotaries you get a lower compression reading when the engine is cold.

 

since u can't run ur car i'm assuming your engine is cold, so maybe thats why the compression is lower i wouldn't worry about it. try the plugs you may have fouled them running so rich.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...