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tightend by Vulcan himself


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Post your most frustrating fastener stories here, get it off your chest. graemlins/doh.gif

I am currently locked in a battle with what is the toughest bolt/nut I have ever encountered. Its a 24mm bastard, one of two holding the lower left control arm to a Mark 8 rear end I just bought. Using a 9000 lb forklift (had the assy shipped to work in the first place) to hold the assembly in place, and using a 48" cheater on my craftsman 12 point combination wrench, I cannot get the bitch to budge. The bolt on the other side came right out, but this one will.not.move. Regretfully, I have given up on winning this war by honnorable means, and will cut the bitch tomarrow. I remember in highschool, on a weight machine that functioned very similar to the way I was pushing on the this breaker bar, I maxed it out at 800 lbs. I am putting at least 2500 lb ft, possibly 3200+, on this steadily and its not fucking moving. graemlins/doh.gif

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There is a bolt that is horribly placed on all second gen turbo rx7's. This bolt is on the right side of the engine (if you are standing in front of the car looking at the windshield0, and it's placed under some rediculous brack and behind a bunch of solid metal vaccuum lines. Bitch took two days of lubing, swearing, yelling, cussing, and tool throwing to get out.

 

 

... For all RX7's enthusiasts who used several of those flex joints to get this out, fuck you... I did it the old fashioned way. smile.gif

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Guest FBody Addict

my worst would have to be the damn 1-1/4" nut holding the fan on the water pump of a v6 95 dodge dakota, stripped the skin off the back of my fingers from middle joint to knuckles

 

second worst - flywheel bolts

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Originally posted by Gas, Grass, or Ass:

y'all are just not using the right tools there is no such thing as hard bolt to remove if you have air tools and a smoke wrench....... smile.gif

+1 for the smoke wrench.. LOL

 

When I have one I can't get out, I call Mike... that little bastard comes over and gets it right out, no drama involved. Makes me mad as hell. :D

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Got to agree with Dave and the bluetip wrench. NOTHING to tight for that. I have had situations that I couldn't use the bluetip though. 3 inch air cutoff tool, or a rotozip with the round cutoff wheels work nicely then. And as silly as this might sound, Are you sure that it's not left handed thread, where turning it to the right loosens in instead of tightening it.

 

Also, another couple of tricks I learned over the years of not having the right tool for the job (no cutting torch) is to take a propane torch, heat it up real good with that, then blast it with WD40. Be mindfull that it CAN flash into a small fire, but it works, also, heat it and drip candle wax on it. Don't ask how it works, don't know, but i have had some luck with that too.

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Originally posted by desperado:

...Are you sure that it's not left handed thread, where turning it to the right loosens in instead of tightening it....

I looked in my manual, hoping that's what it was. It said nothing about left hand threads.

 

...heat it and drip candle wax on it. Don't ask how it works, don't know...
It's called wicking, the same thing happens to wiring on nautical wiring. The saltwater wicks up under the insulation and destroys large sections of the wiring. Thats also what happens to the battery terminals in your car. You can get candle wax out of carpet with the same trick; you need a paper bag over the spot, then run over it with an iron. The wax wicks out of the carpet and into the paper bag.
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Yeah the Acetylene torch and impact wrench makes everything easy. I just used them on a `79 Blazer to remove all the suspension stuff and it worked so easy we were done in under 2 hours. Just heat the bolts until they are glowing red/white and put the impact wrench on them.

 

Evan

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Guest Dolby109

I had a lot of trouble getting the headbolts out of my SR20DET.

They are all a 10mm allen socket, and every single 10mm allen I could find had a bottleneck in it (where it would get thinner for some reason) and so I snapped two craftsman, and one home depot (whatever that was).

 

I torqued it with a breaker bar, or an impact wrench they wouldnt budge and eventually the socket would break.

 

Finally I went to sears and got a solid 10mm allen wrench. Well obviously this wasnt long enough to torque on, so I cut a chunk out of it, stuck it down in the bolt, and stuck a 1/2" 10mm socket on top of it, and with a huge breaker bar they all finally came loose!

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Oh yeah I have one header bolt on my truck that when I went to put my engine back in I had a buddy work it that bolt while I put all the other stuff back on the engine and I finished just before he did. Total job a little less than 3 hours.

 

He's patient and stubborn:)

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Originally posted by chochmo:

if anyone is having that much trouble with a damn bolt, they are either not trying hard enough, not using the right tools, not patient enough, or not smart enough to get the job done

This, coming from some one who had some one else build his car. graemlins/jerkit.gif

A bolt is not a complex device. You put the correct size wrench on it and apply torque. When you turn as many as some of have, you become more and more familiar with the bonds that form between metal parts over time. Rust can create a stronger bond then most think.

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I had an 8 foot long steel pipe on the end my 3/4 breaker bar, trying to get the front axle nut loose on my Duster. My Dad and I were both lifting, we actually got the front end up off the jackstand on one side.

It didn't come loose until we flipped it (the pipe, not the car!) and used the backhoe attachment on the tractor to push down on the pipe.

 

My Grandpa once spent 2 hours cursing at the lugnuts on his early 60s Bonneville. Reverse threaded lugnuts....

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Guest Dolby109

Heh...I just remembered last summer I was up north trying to help my bro change his brakes.

Well sadly I didnt bring my tools with me.

So when it came time to take the lugs off we just used the wrench that came with the car. Well the person who had changed the tires or brakes last aparantly torqued the lugs on WAAAAY to tight, because we stripped the wrench trying to get a few of the nuts off.

I found my grandpas 12 sided socket that fit, but it started to round off the lugs that were stuck.

So we put the lugs back on and my bro took it to the garage, and told him some of the lugs were stuck. Exept he forgot to give them the key (one lug from each wheel was keyed, and we had no problem with those).

So they charged him all this money to get the keyed ones off, and aparantly didnt even realize we had touble with some of the others. I assume they used a good 6 sided socket and they came right off.

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On my '92 Prelude I snapped the timing belt shortly after buying the car. I bought a used head for a good price and started tearing into the car. I got the head off, replaced the head gasket and started working on getting the water pump off and trying to get a new timing belt on it. The crank pulley bolt on that car is so ridiculously tight its still on the car and the car still doesn't run. I cracked on it with a few ft of cheater pipe and ended up bending a crowbar about 90 degrees and twisting off a half inch drive extension. Then I hit the thing with a snap on air wrench at 160psi and it still wouldn't turn. I'm taking it to a garage when I get the extra cash, it'll be the first time I've let someone else work on my car.
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