Science Abuse Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 everyone has their moments, this is one of mine. I've never done this, and though I hear its simple, its an important system and I dont want to risk one of my classic and creative fuck ups. so, how do you bleed brakes? first, how do I drain the system, pulling a line aint doin it. btw, 4 wheel disks, individual valves, etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 cut them with a big knife.... or stab or swipe, you chose the motion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinman Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 First invest in a vacume pump, around $30. Then remove the master cylinder cap, top off with fluid and starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder place vac. pump hose over the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder and start pumping away. Pump untill only clean fresh fluid comes out, watch for air bubbles. Tighten screw before removing vac. pump hose. Continue around the car working your way closer to the master cylinder. Ooh, and be sure to have a little fluid in the bottom of the vac. pump canister before starting. And most importantly make sure you don't pump the master cylinder dry, top it off often. If your not willing to pop $30 for a pump your welcome to borrow mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraGlue Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 Let me know when you're doing it, and I'll give you a hand. It's a lot easier with two people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recklessOP Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 i'm having brake problems myself... since the rear brakes were completely gone, i decided to pull the fronts off and replace them as well. the front brakes should wear faster, correct? i pulled the fronts off and the pads aren't even half worn yet... went to check the rears again, and the calipers are hanging up! the pads have also glazed over from rubbing on rotors so much and they squeak whenever i don't have the brakes applied. that explains why my rear brakes only lasted 25,000 miles. back to the dealer i go... on a lighter note, it seems my front pads have held up fine with our trip to ledges. hopefully the rear brakes will follow suit when i get the calipers fixed/replaced... smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted August 16, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 Originally posted by SupraGlue: Let me know when you're doing it, and I'll give you a hand. It's a lot easier with two people. k, can ya be here 1/2 hour ago? tongue.gif its done, thanks to Lukes advice. The procedure was pretty much what I thought it would be, but I just wanted to be sure. When I get to racing the cougar, a bleed pump will deffinatly be bought, I'll be doing it after every race. Matt, my rotors and calipers are 7 and a half years old, and they've seen 3-4 times the track time that your 1 year old brakes have. And I just now needed to replace them. you yourself are your braking problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CornerCarver Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 Originally posted by Driver: k, can ya be here 1/2 hour ago? tongue.gif its done, thanks to Lukes advice. The procedure was pretty much what I thought it would be, but I just wanted to be sure. When I get to racing the cougar, a bleed pump will deffinatly be bought, I'll be doing it after every race. graemlins/thumb.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recklessOP Posted August 16, 2003 Report Share Posted August 16, 2003 Originally posted by Driver: Matt, my rotors and calipers are 7 and a half years old, and they've seen 3-4 times the track time that your 1 year old brakes have. And I just now needed to replace them. you yourself are your braking problem. did you even read my post? and you had 18 - 24 hours of track time on your brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted August 17, 2003 Report Share Posted August 17, 2003 Originally posted by Four Wheel Drift: i'm having brake problems myself... since the rear brakes were completely gone, i decided to pull the fronts off and replace them as well. the front brakes should wear faster, correct? i pulled the fronts off and the pads aren't even half worn yet... went to check the rears again, and the calipers are hanging up! the pads have also glazed over from rubbing on rotors so much and they squeak whenever i don't have the brakes applied. that explains why my rear brakes only lasted 25,000 miles. back to the dealer i go... on a lighter note, it seems my front pads have held up fine with our trip to ledges. hopefully the rear brakes will follow suit when i get the calipers fixed/replaced... smile.gif just take some sand paper and scuff up the pad then it wont be glazed, and i saw you rotors, GET NEW ONES THEY ARE FUCKED, i saw some deep grooves in the fornt, they are beyond getting turned, but if you get new rotors then you need new pads to. brakes are the olny thing i know btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recklessOP Posted August 17, 2003 Report Share Posted August 17, 2003 got the front rotors turned, and they cleaned up nicely. even after being turned, they weren't even remotely close to the wear indicators. i put fresh pads on the front as well... a good, hard stop will quiet the rear pads, but as i said before, the calipers are hanging up and the pads are rubbing constantly, so it comes right back. btw, i put new pads on the rear as well, and turned the rotors... car is still under warranty, so i'm taking it in to get the rear calipers looked at... smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted August 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2003 ned rotors warp faster. You are going to warp those rotors, soon. 18-24 hours of track time? First off, have you? garrs time dont count. Second, I've had the car over 2 years, I drive "track like" almost everywhere I go. YOU need to get your ass off the track and into the classroom and learn how to drive before you go back to ledges. Being fast is alot more then just finding a line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraGlue Posted August 17, 2003 Report Share Posted August 17, 2003 Originally posted by Driver: ned rotors warp faster. You are going to warp those rotors, soon. 18-24 hours of track time? First off, have you? garrs time dont count. Second, I've had the car over 2 years, I drive "track like" almost everywhere I go. YOU need to get your ass off the track and into the classroom and learn how to drive before you go back to ledges. Being fast is alot more then just finding a line. Please slow down and try to translate your ravings into English. tongue.gif Responses in tech need to be informative and understandable. smile.gif Thank you. -The Management Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recklessOP Posted August 17, 2003 Report Share Posted August 17, 2003 you are missing the point. i am having problems with the braking system that are accelerating the wear on my pads. the same thing would have happened regardless of me open tracking the car. comparing brake wear between our cars is pretty pointless too. our cars have different weights, calipers, pad materials, rotor sizes, brake biases, etc. if i drove an identical (or even similar) car to yours and i wasn't having problems with the system, it might be worthwhile to compare... lastly, thin rotors warp, not turned rotors. i had a minimal ammount of material removed to clean up the face of the rotor in preparation for fresh pads. i still have a large marjority of the rotor thickness left (i'll measure it if you'd like). somehow i don't think throwing away 1/4 worn rotors is a smart idea... and for clarrification, i asked if you had 18 to 24 hours of track use on your brakes because you said you had 3 to 4 times the track time as me on your car. i had 6 good hours of track use on my brakes... lighten up. you'd criticize my driving technique if i couldn't steer a car with broken tie rods... tongue.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted August 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2003 Originally posted by Driver: ned rotors warp faster. You are going to warp those rotors, soon. 18-24 hours of track time? First off, have you? garrs time dont count. Second, I've had the car over 2 years, I drive "track like" almost everywhere I go. YOU need to get your ass off the track and into the classroom and learn how to drive before you go back to ledges. Being fast is alot more then just finding a line. that shit came out of my keyboard? I need more sleep. tongue.gif Turned rotors warp fasrer...because they are thinner. Our cars do have different weights, calipers, pad materials, rotor sizes, brake biases, etc. YOur mustang is lighter, and has a more sport minded braking system as mine. i.e. your car should fare better under such circumstances then mine. Glad you see that what I'm trying to say is critisism and not insult. Just tryin you help ya out man. smile.gif To be blunt, you dont drive good. Neither did I, until I learned otherwise. NASA is your freind man, Goto beaverun, run group 1, great place to learn. www.racenasa.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recklessOP Posted August 18, 2003 Report Share Posted August 18, 2003 Originally posted by Driver: To be blunt, you dont drive good. i'm curious, what exactly are you basing that evaluation on..? honestly, my brakes should probably hold up better, but until i get them working properly, it's a futile comparison... from what i can tell, both rear calipers are sticking. the driver's side caliper is especially bad. every time i get the car back something else breaks... come to ledges so i can lap you... tongue.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted August 18, 2003 Report Share Posted August 18, 2003 just a helpfull hint for anyone disc or drum rear brakes. always set your parking brake when the car is stopped. doesn't matter if its stick shift or auto. this keeps the rear brakes adjusted and stops things like caliper lock up and broken brake drum springs. just make it a habit everytime you park set the brake. I get most of my rear brake jobs on disc cars cause the calipers lock up, burn the pads off, and warp the rotors. thats an expensive brake job even if you do it yourself. just an FYI HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nevarmore Posted August 18, 2003 Report Share Posted August 18, 2003 Originally posted by Sigman Auto Service: just a helpfull hint for anyone disc or drum rear brakes. always set your parking brake when the car is stopped. doesn't matter if its stick shift or auto. this keeps the rear brakes adjusted and stops things like caliper lock up and broken brake drum springs. just make it a habit everytime you park set the brake. I get most of my rear brake jobs on disc cars cause the calipers lock up, burn the pads off, and warp the rotors. thats an expensive brake job even if you do it yourself. just an FYI HTH Unless you've been running hard and have really heated the brakes. Setting the parking brake can cause uneven cooling and warp the rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nevarmore Posted August 18, 2003 Report Share Posted August 18, 2003 Originally posted by Sigman Auto Service: just a helpfull hint for anyone disc or drum rear brakes. always set your parking brake when the car is stopped. doesn't matter if its stick shift or auto. this keeps the rear brakes adjusted and stops things like caliper lock up and broken brake drum springs. just make it a habit everytime you park set the brake. I get most of my rear brake jobs on disc cars cause the calipers lock up, burn the pads off, and warp the rotors. thats an expensive brake job even if you do it yourself. just an FYI HTH Unless you've been running hard and have really heated the brakes. Setting the parking brake can cause uneven cooling and warp the rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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