Vulcan900 Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 If you had the chance what engine would you build for you car? When my current motor huffs in the camaro, I plan on either building a 383, or if I can find and cheap 400 chevy block then a 406. I doubt I will have huge compression, my plan for my car is to be a driver. So, running on 94 gas is a must. Really for power adders the only one I would consider is Nitrous. There ya go. That is the next engine I plan on building. Hopefully that wont be for a couple of years(knock on wood) I know most of you wouldnt actually build a new engine, but mod your current setup. That in itself is a whole nother thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oo0martelle0oO Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 Jet Engine for the Gti Oh hell Yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 I'd pick up a LT1 and a T56 (I know you didn't ask about transmission, but you couldn't do the LT1 swap without the T56 tongue.gif ). If you stay with the old school motors I'd either go the 383 route or build a 377. Either way you went there I'd make sure to use a set of AFR heads and a .480 or so lift cam with around 9:1 - 9.5:1 compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drunkendubber Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 a bullet proof 454 but not in the vw like an old stingray 71 ooo yeah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrousbird Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 Ahhhh....engine to build. Actually, I'll be doing that next year, and depending on how much money I have at the time will = what I will build. If on a not-tight budget, I'd probably do (and this is an off the top of my head, some parts would change for sure list): LT1 383, forged everything AFR 230 heads, heavily ported 8.5:1 compression Solid roller cam, in the .600 range Parallel twin turbo setup, with 15-20 of boos All the other stuff to go along with it (port matched LT4 intake, upgraded fuel system, etc.) Of course, that's a lot of money. Kenny: why such a small cam and such low compression?? Especially with a nitrous car, they LIKE compression. Hell, stock LT1's are running 10.4 (or is it 10.5, can't remember, today has been hard on the brain). Hell, most guys building NA/Nitrous LT1 motors for the street got at least 11.0:1....and still run pump gas. Gotta love the reverse flow cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 He said a driver. You don't need high compression and a huge cam to make power, it's all about the heads. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTM Brian Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 306 with 8.5 compression. Ported Twisted Wedge Heads from TEA Ported Holley System max. .500 inch Turbo grind cam. 50 pounds injectors. 15 psi. 700 rwhp on 94 octane. This is my next project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20G TSi Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kenny: He said it was a driver. I don't consider .600 lift a driver. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I have a 0.602" lift solid roller in my mustang. It is quite streetable, it'll sit and idle at 900rpm, pulling 15-18in/hg vacuum. Hell, the brakes even work well without a canister. But that is on a 408ci motor. A 302 or 351 wouldnt pull that kind of vacuum - that cam would suck in a small cubic inch street car. <u>Here are some specs on my 408:</u> Probe Industries forged steel crank Probe light weight forged flat-top pistons Eagle 6.250" H-Beam rods and ARP bolts Edelbrock Vic Jr. heads, NO PORTWORK!! Edelbrock Vic Jr. Intake, portmatched to heads Barry Grant 950 Race Demon carb Crower custom cam, 0.602" lift, 106degree lobe sep. Main Stud girdle and rocker arm stud girdles 1 3/4 long tube headers w/3" collectors this is a very streetable combo that makes serious HP at or below 6000 rpm and holds 500+ ft/lbs from 2400rpm - 6700rpm. Its a pleasant daily driver. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: 20G TSi ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axoid Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 350 with bullet-proof bottom end, Aluminum AFR heads w/9.5-10:1 compression, Accel Super Ram, Computer controled nitrous (200hp+), 7 grand red line, Emision Legal. Backed by Tremec TKO, Graphite driveshaft and Chevy 12 bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 Mustang: BLown, Nitroused, and Stroked 351 Windsor GTP: Totally custom 3800 Series, Nitroused, Eaton M112 blower smile.gif [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: GT-PEEing ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 20G TSi: Streetable and practical are two different things. He said he wanted a driver, so anything insane is out of the question. I was just giving him a motor that would make good power, and get some gas mileage. If you want something insane... "454+.060 = 467 -TRW # 2399 pistons with Speed Pro file fit rings -10.0 - 10.7 CR depending on deck height, final combustion chamber volume and head gasket used. -Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam -Fel-Pro gaskets -GM 3/8" rods with ARP bolts and GM crank(cast is fine at this level) with ARP main studs and GM windage tray -Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440 -Melling oil pump -Manley or DynaGear double roller timing chain -#215 closed chamber oval port heads '67 - '68 with 2.19 / 1.88 valves, gasket matched and bowls blended -Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold with GM lifter valley splash shield -Q-Jet carb with 75 main jet, 45B primary rod, AX secondary rods and B hanger -1/2" phenolic 4-hole spacer -GM carb heat shield -Ultradyne 288 / 296 hydraulic cam with matching springs - double w/damper. cam specs are 231I / 239E duration @ .050 with .550 / .575 lift ground on a 110LSA. Install on a 108 intake centerline -Rockers - either crane steel long slots or a roller. Isky are the best aluminum, Crower the best Stainless steel. Neither are needed at the power level. -3/8" one piece pushrods Crane or Comp -MSD ignition- 6AL box, coil and distributer(optional-allows easy curve adjustment) -Headers - 1 3/4" PRIMARY TUBE WITH 3" collectors. Remove collector(cut off) and install(weld) Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300 -3" headpipes with 3" crossover and 2 1/2" tailpipes. All bends to be mandrel. Use Flowmaster Big Block mufflers 3" in and out, offset - offset (quietest performance muffler) or DynoMax Oval RaceMagnum. -Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line. -Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube -indexed spark plugs With a turbo 400, ATI 10" converter, 3.73 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 11.60's to 11.90's depending on weather, tuning and driver. My best was 11.49 @ 115 in mine shaft air weighing 4000+ lbs. on pump gas. This combo is fully streetable and was regularly driven to the track some 140 miles away and 2+ hours(one way) on a weekly basis. It was driven anywhere, never over heated and got 12-13 MPG on the highway with a lite foot. Set the total timing to 36 degrees and shift at 5800 for best ET. For my current combo just substitute a Comp cams street roller 238I / 244E duration @ .050, Performer RPM Air-Gap(not worth any ET), Holley 950 or 1000HP, 4.10 gear, lose the tailpipes and raise the shift point 200 RPM to 6000 and you'll run high 10's. Just don't forget things like a roll bar, SFI balancer, SFI bell housing shield, non-clip axles, and a real good suspension / tire package." That should get the job done. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Quik7 Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 787b 4 rotor..... Massive port jobs Polished Lightened cryogenic frozen rotors 2mm racing seals T88 turbo@20+psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRN96WS6 Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 Definitely a 396 but I don't know what heads or cam I would use smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drunkendubber Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 (In my best slurp voice) a thimple thuper powered 1991 geo three thylinder with k&n air filter and sticker and thome 85 octane gatholine sorry i couldn't resist Kyle G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 STOCK bore. .030" overbore = jack shit Trick Flow G2 heads KB 10.5:1 pistons Engle .480/.485 270/272 hydraulic cam Summit 1.6 rockers Weiand Stealth intake long tube 1 3/4 3" collector headers Z28 PINK rods Stock Z28 crank ARP bolts Clevite 77 bearings Holley 750 carb with 75 jets all the way around balanced within 1/2 gram using TCI balancer Combo good for 410hp according to Krebb Engineering who built the 350 in my friends 79 Camaro. With a 700R4, 2800 stall locking converter, 28 inch tall tires car gets 22mpg on the highway, runs 13.73@101.5 and tops out at over 170mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kenny: 20G TSi: Streetable and practical are two different things. He said he wanted a driver, so anything insane is out of the question. I was just giving him a motor that would make good power, and get some gas mileage. If you want something insane... "454+.060 = 467 -TRW # 2399 pistons with Speed Pro file fit rings -10.0 - 10.7 CR depending on deck height, final combustion chamber volume and head gasket used. -Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam -Fel-Pro gaskets -GM 3/8" rods with ARP bolts and GM crank(cast is fine at this level) with ARP main studs and GM windage tray -Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440 -Melling oil pump -Manley or DynaGear double roller timing chain -#215 closed chamber oval port heads '67 - '68 with 2.19 / 1.88 valves, gasket matched and bowls blended -Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold with GM lifter valley splash shield -Q-Jet carb with 75 main jet, 45B primary rod, AX secondary rods and B hanger -1/2" phenolic 4-hole spacer -GM carb heat shield -Ultradyne 288 / 296 hydraulic cam with matching springs - double w/damper. cam specs are 231I / 239E duration @ .050 with .550 / .575 lift ground on a 110LSA. Install on a 108 intake centerline -Rockers - either crane steel long slots or a roller. Isky are the best aluminum, Crower the best Stainless steel. Neither are needed at the power level. -3/8" one piece pushrods Crane or Comp -MSD ignition- 6AL box, coil and distributer(optional-allows easy curve adjustment) -Headers - 1 3/4" PRIMARY TUBE WITH 3" collectors. Remove collector(cut off) and install(weld) Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300 -3" headpipes with 3" crossover and 2 1/2" tailpipes. All bends to be mandrel. Use Flowmaster Big Block mufflers 3" in and out, offset - offset (quietest performance muffler) or DynoMax Oval RaceMagnum. -Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line. -Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube -indexed spark plugs With a turbo 400, ATI 10" converter, 3.73 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 11.60's to 11.90's depending on weather, tuning and driver. My best was 11.49 @ 115 in mine shaft air weighing 4000+ lbs. on pump gas. This combo is fully streetable and was regularly driven to the track some 140 miles away and 2+ hours(one way) on a weekly basis. It was driven anywhere, never over heated and got 12-13 MPG on the highway with a lite foot. Set the total timing to 36 degrees and shift at 5800 for best ET. For my current combo just substitute a Comp cams street roller 238I / 244E duration @ .050, Performer RPM Air-Gap(not worth any ET), Holley 950 or 1000HP, 4.10 gear, lose the tailpipes and raise the shift point 200 RPM to 6000 and you'll run high 10's. Just don't forget things like a roll bar, SFI balancer, SFI bell housing shield, non-clip axles, and a real good suspension / tire package." That should get the job done. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> yea, that will work too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMeanGreen Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 327 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20G TSi Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 your ideal of practical and mine are obviously two different things [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: 20G TSi ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 20G TSi: your ideal of practical and mine are obviously two different things [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: 20G TSi ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> From kenny: Sounds like. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: More Tools Than Columbus Racing ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS69 Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 I had built a 350 Olds(for the 79 Cutlass), a 427 Chevy BB(for the 69 Chevelle) and next is a 383 small block for my 78 Z-28... A friend and I built a 406 Chevy and I would never do that again. The small block 400 has heating problems. If money was no object, I would buy a 502/502 crate engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Posted February 11, 2002 Report Share Posted February 11, 2002 Mine would be the 350 TPI TT engine that I plan on building for my next IROC when I get it. I have the 350 block in my garage, and once I get some cash flow I am going to start on it. I really dont want to post the stuff I plan on using because it would take the entire night but I will try to see what I can do: 350 L98 block Ross 8.0:1 Custom Pistons Forged Rods (brand TBD) Steel Crank (brand TBD) TPIS Big Mouth TPI intake mani. ported SLP runners ported Stock Plenum Ported (may go with "Pizza box") TPIS 58mm Throttle Body ZZ-9 Camshaft Custom ground by TPIS for Twin Turbo setup Gale Banks Turbo Headers 2 Turbos TBD high volume oil pump 255lb/hr in tank fuel pump 1-2 in line fuel pumps activated by window switch Custom true Dual Exhuast Accel DFI with calmap software Thats basically what I am planning as you can see I have alot more figuring to do and some more though put into is, if anyone wants to offer suggestions and the like I will be appreciative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lustalbert Posted February 12, 2002 Report Share Posted February 12, 2002 Hell, if were gona go for broke, no cash flow problems, no problems finding parts, ect... 528 ci chrysler hemi (bored and stroked, $15k from chysler performance products) 2.25 intake, 1.94 exhaust 8-71 blower @ 10 lbs limit 292 adv duration cam, .530 lift 8.0:1 comp forged everything 2lbs/min nitrous(intercooler in a bottle) 1139 hp @ 6500 991 ft lbs @ 5400 (computer simulated dyno) ah, if only i was in a dream world and won the lottery......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bahnstoermer1647545488 Posted February 12, 2002 Report Share Posted February 12, 2002 I'd just like an Apexi RX6 on my wee little 1.3L smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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