Alex1647545498 Posted March 23, 2002 Report Share Posted March 23, 2002 I just pulled the plugs on my 1971 Corvette with a 350cu SBC. They're saturated with oil. So... Anthony thinks my valve rings are going bad. If this is the case, can anyone here do a re-ring job on my valves? And how much? I may be able to pull the heads myself, so would make a difference in price? Thanks smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamZman Posted March 23, 2002 Report Share Posted March 23, 2002 If you think it's just the upper valve seals you wouldn't need to pull the heads. You just have to be able to remove the springs/retainers and replace the upper valve seals. Just make sure you don't take off the retainers and just let the valve fall into the cylinder. You can just use a compressor and pump the cylinders full of air. Or you could do it the old fashioned way and fill each cylinder up w/ a fine rope, crank the motor by hand till the piston/rope pushes the valve up so as not to fall. You can then take off the retainers, spring and replace valve seals.. I don't know if that made sense.. Does the car puff a little smoke on startup after sitting for a while? If so, that's general valve seals.. That's only if this is your problem. If you have bad piston rings then it's time for a rebuild.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drunkendubber Posted March 23, 2002 Report Share Posted March 23, 2002 that sucks man hopefully its not your piston rings my fingers are crossed for you Kyle G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted March 23, 2002 Report Share Posted March 23, 2002 haha valve rings...the valves seals could be your problem, though it could be your pistons rings...hope for the lesser... Spring Start Tip... Disconnect your ignition and rotate the motor before start up for the fist of the year. This way you dont have harsh drag on parts that are totally dry that need to be lubricated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny Posted March 23, 2002 Report Share Posted March 23, 2002 If you pull the heads buy a real set (read: AFR). The string method is old school as hell and should work pretty well. Pulling the heads on a SBC is about the simplest thing you can do, you shouldn't have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted March 23, 2002 Report Share Posted March 23, 2002 Originally posted by hitek cougar: I just pulled the plugs on my 1971 Corvette with a 350cu SBC. They're saturated with oil. So... buy a ford and you wont have that problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lustalbert Posted March 24, 2002 Report Share Posted March 24, 2002 Originally posted by More Tools Than Columbus Racing: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by hitek cougar: I just pulled the plugs on my 1971 Corvette with a 350cu SBC. They're saturated with oil. So... buy a ford and you wont have that problem! </font>...... becaus all the other problems will keep you to busy to notice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex1647545498 Posted March 24, 2002 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2002 acually I think I know why the plugs has so much oil on them now. I think it is because I'm running on full synthetic oil instead of only part synthetic the previous owner used. Since the full synthetic is thinner that's probably why the plugs were so bad. I'm going to use part synthetic next oil change and see how that goes smile.gif thanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lustalbert Posted March 24, 2002 Report Share Posted March 24, 2002 just a thought... 20w-50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted March 24, 2002 Report Share Posted March 24, 2002 why are you running synthetic in an open engine compartment..thats a waste...but 20W50 would solve your problems I'd say... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex1647545498 Posted March 25, 2002 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2002 well I used that oil last time to see how it would go. I'll try using 20w50 next time smile.gif thanks again peeps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Derf Posted March 27, 2002 Report Share Posted March 27, 2002 Running a heavier oil may fix the problem. In regard to Synthetic, its the best thing you could be using in your motor since it tends to bond to metal parts and reduces contaminents in your oil supply. Once I have a mottor broken in about 20k-30k miles on a rebuild, I use full synthetic, However you cannot use synthetic just after a rebuild because its formulation is so slippery that the motor will never seat. How many miles are on your current powerplant, if it is a rebuild how many miles are on the rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bahnstoermer1647545488 Posted March 27, 2002 Report Share Posted March 27, 2002 Oh, that's normal if you've driven the car with the plugs in... oh wait, you have pistons... shit, I know nothing. smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted March 27, 2002 Report Share Posted March 27, 2002 If you try to fill the cylinders with compressed air to prevent the valves from falling into them, listen for whistling/hissing/bubbling or any other sound that a non-running internal combustion engine SHOULDN'T be making when it's not running smile.gif If it makes noise, it could be major blow-by from worn piston rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamZman Posted March 27, 2002 Report Share Posted March 27, 2002 Originally posted by Trigun: Once I have a mottor broken in about 20k-30k miles on a rebuild, I use full synthetic, However you cannot use synthetic just after a rebuild because its formulation is so slippery that the motor will never seat. That's not entirely true. It depends on what kind of engine you are rebuilding. Are you rebuilding your engines w/ stock type rings? My friends and I have had this discussion several times. Breaking in a car w/ roller lifters (ex:LT1) consists of breaking in the the rings. If you are running a good moly race ring you shouldn't have to worry about a break in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dual Webers Suck Posted March 28, 2002 Report Share Posted March 28, 2002 Originally posted by kenny: If you pull the heads buy a real set (read: AFR). The string method is old school as hell and should work pretty well. Pulling the heads on a SBC is about the simplest thing you can do, you shouldn't have a problem. Arao Engineering Don't know if they really work as advertised, but they sure are cool looking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex1647545498 Posted March 28, 2002 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2002 The car has 43K miles on it and it has never been rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted March 30, 2002 Report Share Posted March 30, 2002 If you are running a good moly race ring you shouldn't have to worry about a break in. Ditto You know synthetic oil was designed for cab forward vehicles.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex1647545498 Posted March 30, 2002 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2002 ok ok I just wanted to see if I can use it tongue.gif I'm gonna change it already geez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street pilot Posted April 4, 2002 Report Share Posted April 4, 2002 Originally posted by hitek cougar: acually I think I know why the plugs has so much oil on them now. I think it is because I'm running on full synthetic oil instead of only part synthetic the previous owner used. Since the full synthetic is thinner that's probably why the plugs were so bad. I'm going to use part synthetic next oil change and see how that goes smile.gif thanks everyone A compression and leakdown test could be of some help in determining the condition of your rings. But I hope it is just the oil smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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