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Get rid of the blower?


MrMeanGreen

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After thinking some, here's what I'm debating. Right now, the majority of the supercharger system is apart due to my blower belt mysteriously walking off at Jegs the other night. I have a few other items I'm attending to since things are apart.

 

Now, if I were to hypothetically sell my entire ATI setup with everything invested including the fuel system, gauges, extras, etc., I'm looking at about $5k or a little more cutting someone a deal.

 

With this money I could score an iron LQ9 6.0L block and a forged 406 rotating assembly for about $2k (unassembled), get a 12 bolt for about $1500 used, and run a badass direct port nitrous kit upwards of a 300 shot, which is cake to this engine. If I play finances enough, I could probably score a built TH-400 in the process with a little more investment on my part. However, this brings a few things to mind.

 

1) I'd have to go with the TH-400 since the 4L60E would shatter the first time I hit it, built or not. Plus, running a transbrake kicks ass :D

2) The car would be down for probably the rest of the year while I ironed shit out and built the engine (yes, I can build SBC engines and do other things along those lines).

3) The car would lose major drivability both due to the new configuration and because I'll be driving a 3 speed now.

4) Nitrous is good sometimes, but it's in limited supply. Boost is always there and after the initial investment, doesn't keep getting more expensive to keep going.

 

There's some more minor things, but that's a start. The 406 itself is a 500rwhp engine, and then there's the spray. Most similar setups with a 4500+ stall are running low 9s and trapping in the 150 range.

 

Again, I'd like to keep the car as streetable as possible. This means the AC, seats, stereo, etc all stay. Right now the car weighs in at 3340 without me in it, and will probably hit 3500 with the addition of the beefier tranny (the block is 80lbs over stock, but will be displacing my 90lb supercharger setup).

 

Opinions and recommendations? Keep this somewhat on track, and fair warning, I will delete all BS posts that are flame bait or just plain out bullshit.

 

Thanks smile.gif

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Hmmm goin to spray when I am goin to go to boost. I love the spray but cant wait till LPE takes my car for 650 TT upgrade...Damn 4 month waiting period. I thought about goin this route but after seeing other TT ls1's I cant pass it up. I really think if you went this route tthe driveability would be alot less then you think. But then again when was the last time you took a trip in the car for a long amount of time. It all depends if you wanna keep this a track car or a street car. Me I love the ability to get in the car and cruise to a different state with the A/C blowing cold without any worries at all. Isay build up with what you got now and run more boost...
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1) Go heads/cam, similar to Daron's car.

2) Rear end to handle the power.

3) Torque Converter.

4) Hello 10's NA and no fucking around with any kind of FI.

 

My $0.02... graemlins/thumb.gif

 

P.S. That is with me driving it. Who knows what you would run... ;)

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A 406 w/ your stock LS1 heads and an LS6 cam != 500RWHP, or anywhere near it. Big, fat torque curve for sure, but not hitting the 500RWHP mark. That's all in the heads/cam.

 

I think you are also underestimating some other items. That 300HP direct port kit is gonna rack you at least 2 grand (you'll either need to have a great fuel system or a stand alone for the nitrous side).

 

That tranny + everything to convert it isn't going to be cheap. Ask Jason Fetter, it's not a budget as you might think, since you don't want to just toss a stock TH400 in there and hope for the best.

 

You are severly over-simplfying things.....if low 9's @ 150 were that simple, every Tom, Dick, and Henry would have a 9 second LS1.

 

IMO, work with what you have, and grow from there. Why not build a bottom end and run more boost?? I'm personally not a big fan of the iron block conversion (IMO it's a step backwards), but is more budget oriented...though you could just run a stroker crank on your aluminum block and not re-sleeve; you just don't have to go insane w/ the cubes).

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If streetability is a concern you'd be taking a huge step backwards. To get 500 RWHP NA you're going to need a heads/cam combo that will give up plenty of streetability over your stock heads/LS6 cam. Cubes are great but the heads/cam selection makes the power, how much are ported LS1/6 castings or the new AFR's going for? You won't get anywhere near 500 RWHP without damn good heads. You'd have more than $5k in that build without even getting into the nitrous kit or any of the little stuff that all costs money. Built TH400's that can take that kind of power aren't cheap either. Like Joe said, if it was that easy everybody would have low 9 second street driven LS1's.

 

If it were mine I'd keep the blower. You could throw the 406 in there, or better yet get a forged 346 rotating assembly with your aluminum block. Seems like a PITA to completely change directions when you've already got a strong FI setup.

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Originally posted by Mensan:

I don't understand what's wrong with what you have now. Why not just add a 150 shot to your current setup? That would fatten up your bottom end.

The 150 shot would probably be too big to shoot through the blower safely. Maybe a 100 shot.
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I'm of the 'keep your FI' camp. You've put a lot of work into your car and it's coming more into it's own with every little detail. If it's more power you're wanting, you have many other options that don't undo all the work you've already put forth.

 

You've already lightly mentioned driveablity which is something to think about... If you ever wanted to enjoy your car on a more 'extensive' outting you're going to have a lot more fun and comfort with the road manners of your FI over a massive change of the nature you've proposed. If you are truly wanting it to just be a light street/track/show beast then you might as well gut out the other conveniences as well.

 

Bottom-line, you've done a great job with your car as it's a work of art in itself, but that configuration is no where near completely tapped out on power. Keep the F/I and build it up to the specs you want with what groundwork you've already begun laying...

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I would keep your current setup.. I agree with Joe, you aren't taking into account certian things. Just getting the bottom end, not boring/stroking it and having stock heads and a small cam won't give you as much power as you think. (that small of heads and cam won't shove enough air into the combustion chamber to give you that type of power) I'm also a little concerned about a 300 shot in a stock bottom end... regardless if it has a forged rotating assemby or not. (a good rotating assembly will cost you over 2k by itelf) You'll need your fuel system in order to handle that type of engine setup... maybe even a bigger fuel pump than you currently have... Trust me, completely changing things around all the time without ever getting to enjoy what you have is no fun... plus finding yourself running into other things breaking once you upgrade something really sux!

 

ok, let's price things out...

 

you're saying sell your ATI setup for 5k with your fuel system and all...

 

+5000

 

6.0l Block 600 dollars (that should be about typical for one that has no rotating assembly and doesn't have any crack etc...)

 

-600

 

decent Fordged Rotating Assembly 2500

 

-2500

 

N20 Kit 2000

 

-2000

 

Fuel System including Big daddy fuel pump and Injectors 1000 (est)

 

-1000

 

used Moser 9 Inch rear (allot stronger than a 12 bolt and if you're looking for sub 9's...you'll need it. approx 2000 (maybe a little less)

 

-2000

 

Built Tranny 2500 (a stock tranny isn't gonna take you into the 9's... even at that, I paid 2600 for my tranny that is in my car now)

 

-2500

 

Tuning 100

 

-100

 

total parts and I'm sure I'm missing Stuff:

$10,700

 

I didn't put in the price of a valve train upgrade also... I seriously doubt those Valve Springs, lifters, etc.. will handle that kind of power.

 

I also didn't add to the price the cost of slicks, tubbing the rear in order to hold the big daddy slicks, N2O fills, CAM2 Gas, etc... that you'd need for that type of times etc....

 

I'm all for you doing what you want with your car, but I honestly thing that you are under estimating what it will cost in order to do this project.... Remember, if you buy cheap parts now, you'll be replace them later...

 

with that being said... I have a brand new Moser that's for sale :D

 

[ 10. August 2004, 10:26 AM: Message edited by: V6 Power ]

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Guest Elinar Longsight
Not that my opinion matters, but I like the car with the setup it has. Save time and money, and build up the bottom end so you can go with more boost. graemlins/thumb.gif
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Keep the blower. graemlins/thumb.gif

 

What...you WANT to have your car down for an unnecessarily long amount of time while you replace the powertrain??? Oops! Don't forget about all of the little gremlins that will plague this project to the point of you posting this coming Decemeber telling us all how you wished we didn't talk you into the swap!

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keep the blower or even change blowers try the YSi trim or mondo race blowers with vortech I think they are doing a lot better job than our prochargers are HP wise. but some say thats a matter of opinion. N/A cars and Blower cars seem to grab more attention than N20 cars I think.. but thats just my 2 cents.
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