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What all should be included in a "rebuild"


KlubFoot

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I am going to pick up a Thunderbird 5.0L motor from my friend this weekend. As I slowly start tearing into this thing, I'd like to have a good idea of what I will be wanting to replace or freshen up. This is the first rebuild I will be doing on my own, and I want to have things planned out before I just go wasting time and money. I will also create a parts/combo list at the end of my post for critiquing. Keep in mind this is all going to be going in an 89 LX hatch 4 cyl car (the one that floated around on here and noone ever gave a chance).

 

My goal for the car is simple. I want to hit 12's using as many stock parts as I can and I want to be able to drive the car daily without problems. I don't plan on ever running boost and I don't plan on running anything lower then 12's (I've got the 93 GT for all that.) Overall, the main intent is to get my hands dirty and create a learning experience that will pay off in the end. I am also trying to do this as cheap as possible.

 

As far as the block goes, what all should I be looking for as far as structural integrity? I plan on having it cleaned up and machined to .030" over. I know I will need larger pistons and rings after the machine work. Stock rods will be used with the larger pistons. I will also be replacing the freeze plugs. What can I do to clean up the stock crank? Cam, Rod and Main bearings will all be replaced with stock specification units. Also, I will be replacing the oil pump with a stock volume stock pressure unit. A complete gasket set will be used as well. A new timing chain and gears and a cleaned up stock HO cam will also be used. Am I forgetting anything important?

 

I'm going to be using a set of ported E7TE heads with new springs, retainers, rockers, pushrods and possibly larger valves (1.90/1.60). Ported stock lower and stock upper intake. 65mm TB. Completely stock fuel system as of now (unless anyone has any suggestions).

 

The List

 

Freshened up block (0.030" over)

0.030" over hypereutectic pistons and rings

Stock stroke

New freeze plugs

New cam, rod and main bearings

New stock volume and pressure oil pump

Complete gasket Kit

Stock 302 HO cam

New timing chain and gears (if needed)

Ported E7TE heads w/ springs, retainers, rockers, pushrods and possibly larger valves (1.90/1.60)

Ported stock lower

Stock upper

65mm TB

19# injectors

Stock fuel pump.

Stock MAS

K&N cone filter

For now, stock headers, hpipe (with gutted cats) and flowmaster catbacks.

 

Car will also have sn95 5 lug swap and an 8.8" rear with 3.73 gear and 5 lug ranger axles and rebuilt traction loc. Stock GT upper and lowers.

 

Let me know what you guys think!

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I would at least get the crank and rods checked by a machine shop before you buy the bearings just in case you have to go .010", at least they will check it and polish it and champfer (sp?) the holes, also if you want a little stroke i have a already polished and champfers crank out of my 351 im trying to get rid of 50 bucks the machine bill alone was 70. Other than having everything checked you have a pretty complete list
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You could also buy firged pistons for not much more that hyperutectic but you can run a much tighter bore with the Hyper pistons.

 

IPS could get you a set of Ross pistons for about what you will be paying for hypers.

 

And I would bump the compression for sure like fowler said 10-11 and still run pump.

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does anyone know what the stroke would be increased to if a crank out of a 351 was used in a 302? Also, would it bolt right in, would the bearings from a 302 crank work and will the stock 302 rods bolt up to the crank without problems?
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does anyone know what the stroke would be increased to if a crank out of a 351 was used in a 302? Also, would it bolt right in, would the bearings from a 302 crank work and will the stock 302 rods bolt up to the crank without problems?

 

You can't use a 351 crank in a 302 block. The deck is taller. Besides, even if you could, you would still only have 351ci (same bore size).

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Guest Spoiler71

The Windsor crank would need allot of machining to fit the smaller mains in the 302. And true you would still und up with a 351.

Your plans sounds pretty good but I would defiantly replace the timing chain and gears.

I agree with using forged pistons. The speed-pro L2482F30 will give you a 9.4 to 1 and plenty of valve clearance for the larger valves. The L2488F30 is a replacement for the 82-85 H.O. so it was designed for a larger chamber it should make around 9.6 but it uses a metric ring. You should be able to score a L2482 for a round $32 per slug.

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