Dave1647545494 Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 so did you spin a bearing or blow up the motor (i.e. rod through the block, hole in a piston)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linc5.0 Posted May 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 havent torn apart but pulled plugs and nothing looked out of the ordinary...sounded like something loose in motor when it happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billiumss Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 Very true, Maf's measure IAT. Yes, in a way you are correct. Indirectly that is how a MAF works, airflow over the wires/elements. Temperature affects air density. Hotter the air, less dense it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Beast Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 When you race fast cars you break expensive parts. It's as simple as that. fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 (edited) Yes, in a way you are correct. Indirectly that is how a MAF works, airflow over the wires/elements. Temperature affects air density. Hotter the air, less dense it is. i know this.. and just noticed the ninja edited post after of such. but i do know this. when you tune/dyno a car with the air filter up in the air, away from the radiator, your air temp's will be way different once you push it back down behind the radiator, and close the hood! 110 or so temps, vs 165-190* temps, will change alot in the tune.amiright? but then what the hell do i know. edit, now i have time to respond to this thread properly! now also to the above poster! i understand how a maf works, most of the newer mafs do have an iat sensor, the maf does not measure iat directly(but some have one in the air stream after the maf , and sets the mil light off, when it see's some a miss), it measures molecules of air across the heated element. basically the maf tries to maintain a constant temperature across the heated element, as air molecules brush across the element they cool it so the maf voltage raises to keep the element temp constant. the element basically cools in direct relation to the density or mass of the airflow across it. cooler air=more dense=more mass=more fuel required. hotter air=less dense=less mass=less fuel required. built in temp compensation without looking at actual temperature. the iat sensor is basically used to ramp in/out spark or fuel based on preset temp limits. another reason why i never touched the subject of removing maf's and tuning. i only see doing it when a maf is just worthless during tuning, like say marks z06! airflow would overpower it and make it useless. because this thread is about eric blowing his motor and it turned into a thread about your intake setup and him running 200 deg intake temps. i was trying to say how they are unrelated. exactly, but some people here can turn things around and reword them. hence people wanting the kitchen back! and its still a NO! No see my comment above above robs quote in this post. Wrong, you do not have to do this, it just helps in the tuning process, IE. Forced Induction kits on stock fuel rails... fuel rail pressure is raised under boost to maintain delta pressure across the injectors. but i think RL covered that, so lets say for example, you take a 5.0 mustang, engine built and the rest built to handle what im about to use as a example. taking a car, that runs 32psi at the rail, then forcing 20 lbs of boost into the intake stream, what does that give you at the injector nozzle? 12psi? how much of a pulse width would one need? ie your help with the tuning process., raise the fuel pressure. now you as you stated. some system's run 50-60 psi! hence no real need to raise FP. do to the fact once injectors get above 70psi, they become less durable, and less accurate and with today's larger injectors, there is less of a need for it. It's not a good idea to run high intake temps on any car, forced induction or NA...... agreed, but you have stated the air temps of some of the boosted cars you have tuned! the hotter the aircharge, the faster the burn rate period. this means less timing and greater potential for knock. Yeah it pretty much is..... tuning a boosted car vs na car, while the principles are the same, can be completely different. all depends on the vehicle. there also can be a big difference in what "works" vs what is the proper way to do things.but i am no tuner, and never claim to be. but i do know and under stand advanced engine drivability Been there done that.... really me too, i think i took that class before they just let anybody take it.thank you delphi..lol now,you probably already knew most of this anyway, i just didnt see any it covered in the thread. and for anyones else info if you like to read or not but there is a pretty good book by Greg Banis(sp) that covers alot of this stuff pretty in depth. now in no way am i saying this shop did this or that! i am clearly debating the knowledge that i have been taught and learned! Edited May 28, 2009 by Removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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