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Switching from regular oil to synthetic?


DSM1290
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They are all good oils but how come RP and redline did not perform as well as they are made out to be. The independent testing they did this year RP and redline still have lots of carbon burn off for a true synthetic, almost as much as cheaper oils.

 

Im not trying to defend the oils im just saying there good. If they have less carbon burn off and provide better wear protection and lubrication than conventional oils then there doing there job.

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Im not trying to defend the oils im just saying there good. If they have less carbon burn off and provide better wear protection and lubrication than conventional oils then there doing there job.

 

Thats true but the market is so close with quality of oils, its really in what name you want to buy. I have alot of money in my engine, I just am picky on oils for some reason.

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Thats true but the market is so close with quality of oils, its really in what name you want to buy. I have alot of money in my engine, I just am picky on oils for some reason.

 

Trust me, we all have monies in our engines and we all our very picky. Well, at least i am.

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Seafoam works well if used correctly.

Amsoil European 5W-40 and Castrol European GC is what I use. As long as your car does not have any bad leaks your good to go on the synthetic. You can mix and match whatever you like. Lots of guys make their own cocktail mix.

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Nothing wrong with any of the oils mentioned, and IMHO you guys are spliting hairs. Personally I'd use Amsoil in my daily and Royal Purple in my race car, but my daily is a POS and doesn't need the extra expense. When I pulled my blown up motor apart the inside looked really good, enough for me.
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I have switched oils each way. Nothing ever happened. No leaking oil, no burning fluid. I just changed the oil on one of my cars ( Volvo 850 ) It has 100k miles always ran synthetic and I put dino oil in it. No issues. Runs the same.
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I mean no offense Bill, but both of those engines suck, bad. They are two of GM's poorest designs and are very prone to leaking oil and coolant regardless of what you do to them. My parents had a 3.1 that had to be repaired under warranty for leaking (25k). Unfornuatly you just didn't have great cars to try this on, do you really put conventional oil in your Camaro?

 

 

Those motor weren't that bad.

 

I'm not the only one that this has happen to. I had a friend switch in a dodge car and did the same thing. It just seems the synthetic cleans up the engine a bit.

 

I bought my Camaro brand new with 15 miles on it. Drove it for 500 miles or so then switched to Mobil 1 and never had issues.

 

My 2006 Silverado 6.0L was bought new with 5 miles on it and after 1,000 miles on it I switched to Mobil 1. I have almost 28k on it now and no leaks.

 

Bottom line, if you have a 60K+ mile car don't switch, stay with dino oil.

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if you have a LSx engine you should search corvette forum about the different brands of oils. after mobil 1 was reformulated race engines started to blow up. they have also been having problems with RP doing the same things. i run amsoil in my vette and mobil 1 in the TBSS and CTS-V.

 

street = it doesn't really matter what you run.

high performance = amsoil

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I run Valvoline VR1 in our race motor, becuase it has a VERY high level of zinc. I don't have to worry about extended high oil temps like the RR guys do. If we were, I'd run the Amsoil 20w-50 and add zinc. The only problem I see with the "synthetic" race oils is the additive packages. In a pushrod motor like mine, low zinc is what kills the valvetrain. Some of the oil "treaments" are just a blend of zinc and other moly products.

 

Just my 2 cents....

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