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LOL my truck is acting up again. Got a match?


Browning

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It's been stalling when I come to lights that sit on a slight incline here in the last week. I went ahead and changed the fuel filter and tossed a coil on it yesterday since I've been meaning to do so. Ran great after. Went for a 20 mile cruise, filled the tank and headed home. When I got home and backed into the driveway it died on me. Driveway is on a small slope.

 

I did notice the injectors have a small drip to them but I'm not sure if that's what causing this or not? Today I started it, went to straighten up the wheels and it died(flat ground and sitting still) Started it again, turned the wheel from left to right and it died again. WTF?

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definitely not a nice even spray and yes it's both of them. Last time I noticed one of them looking like this I changed the fuel filter, fuel pump and soaked the injectors in cleaner over night and all was well for a few months. What is a pintle?
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definitely not a nice even spray and yes it's both of them. Last time I noticed one of them looking like this I changed the fuel filter, fuel pump and soaked the injectors in cleaner over night and all was well for a few months. What is a pintle?

 

The pintle is part of the injector that opens to let fuel shoot out of the tiny hole.

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tbi and the injectors are dripping?

 

bad pintle or fuel pressure is too high

 

or even the o-rings around the injectors are bad. but dripping while idling is bad ummm k..lol

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would it be worth going to the junkyard and buying a couple to try out? I'd hate to have to buy them new. Think advance wants like $50-70 each.

 

Would that dripping at idle cause it to do when I turn the wheel and/or come to a stop on an incline?

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for sure sounds fuel related...best bet is to test fp...since there not test port..i always amp testing them, jumping the test connector for the pump with my amp meter hooked in. 2-4 amp and your golden
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The TBI rebuild kit is cheap and easy. Has all the o-rings and gaskets, plus you get a new diaphragm for the regulator.

 

I've heard of IAC passages getting clogged and hanging an IAC up causing similar troubles. Another quick and easy one to check, clean, and reset.

 

Ignition modules have been known to drive people nuts with similar issues in the TBI'd GM vehicles like yours. There is a dielectric grease that acts as a heat sink between the module and the distributor that has been known to break down over the years and overheat the module.

 

Just some ideas.

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I don't even feel like fucking with it today. really not sure what to start checking first. Weird how it will go days without any problems then out of nowhere start fucking up and then back to running good again the net day
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Alright I just got done doing the self diagnostics test on it and pulled 3 codes: 13, 32 and 34. Searching google I found that these codes are as follows:

 

13 = Oxygen sensor open circuit. (I don't even think it has an oxygen sensor on it)

32 = EGR system failure.

34 = MAP sensor circuit signal voltage high

 

Would either of these be causing the dripping from the injector and/or the stalling at idle?

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I don't know if any of you guys read this but I am beginning to think it's about to jump time on me. Last couple days it fires up as soon as I turn the key, I mean asap. Usually takes a few seconds at least. Also, it keeps backfiring when downshifting, which is unusual. I can also hear a clank in the front of the engine. Never done it before. I just thought water pump and never paid it any mine when I first heard it a couple days ago. But after today I think it's the chain. Likely?
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91? I'd say the TB is shot. Certainly the injectors need cleaned. The dripping is bad any way you slice it. Have you put a timing light on it yet? A idle it usually when the TC is bad timing will jump all over the place. I doubt that is the problem. I'm sure it's worn, but it would have nothing to do with the Fuel Injection issue. As for the CEL codes:

 

13 = Oxygen sensor open circuit. (I don't even think it has an oxygen sensor on it)

It's got one, but it'll be a single wire. It could be worn out, or a bad wire/plug.

 

32 = EGR system failure.-- Not really sure about this one. Fuel cap on tight? That'll throw a code occasionally. Check the Charcoal canister system and all the connections to make sure they are in good shape.

 

34 = MAP sensor circuit signal voltage high.-- Vacuum leak? The truck is 20 years old, might be a good time to start replacing the vacuum lines. I'm sure there are a few that are leakish.

 

 

HTH

 

Erik

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pat...egr does not = evap..gas cap could still be at the gas station, and it will never know...its obd 1

 

dripping bad.

 

o2 codes could be cause its rich!

 

the egr valve could be stuck open causing it to run bad. the valve being stuck open will also cause the other 2 codes.

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91? I'd say the TB is shot. Certainly the injectors need cleaned. The dripping is bad any way you slice it. Have you put a timing light on it yet? A idle it usually when the TC is bad timing will jump all over the place. I doubt that is the problem. I'm sure it's worn, but it would have nothing to do with the Fuel Injection issue. As for the CEL codes:

 

13 = Oxygen sensor open circuit. (I don't even think it has an oxygen sensor on it)

It's got one, but it'll be a single wire. It could be worn out, or a bad wire/plug.

 

32 = EGR system failure.-- Not really sure about this one. Fuel cap on tight? That'll throw a code occasionally. Check the Charcoal canister system and all the connections to make sure they are in good shape.

 

34 = MAP sensor circuit signal voltage high.-- Vacuum leak? The truck is 20 years old, might be a good time to start replacing the vacuum lines. I'm sure there are a few that are leakish.

 

 

HTH

 

Erik

 

it has the wire for the o2 sensor but it's been snipped and the flange was cut off of the y-pipe before I got it. I am 100% sure it's not an o2 sensor problem since it's been okay the last couple years I've owned it.

 

Gas cap is on tight, all vacuums have checked out so far. Had one that was cracked/dry rotted but I replaced it, no change. EGR didn't have any carbon on it and when I pushed the plunger it moves freely and pushes air out of the nipple.

 

Tried a used MAP sensor from the yard and no change.

 

When I cleared the codes after taking the egr valve off and getting it back on, the codes have not returned, well, only the o2 code.

 

pat...egr does not = evap..gas cap could still be at the gas station, and it will never know...its obd 1

 

dripping bad.

 

o2 codes could be cause its rich!

 

the egr valve could be stuck open causing it to run bad. the valve being stuck open will also cause the other 2 codes.

So even though the egr is clean and the plunger moves freely it could still be bad? Took my moms b/f a ride 30 minutes ago and the fucker didn't stall once, the clank was gone and it ran great. However, when we got back idle was choppy as hell and exhaust fumes were horrid. Smelled like gas. Rich or lean?

 

Can't figure this out and it starts so fast now it's kinda scary lol

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smellingh fuel is rich...thats more then likely the leaking injector, and not having the o2 hooked up. weld a bung in it and let the ecm see the o2, so it can fuel control correctly.

 

also fix the leaky injector

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