Browning Posted April 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Looks like I'm buying two new injectors. Would a pressure regulator cause this or should the injectors spray evenly regardless of the pressure?? Maybe I should toss one of those on too? I gotta get this thing going soon. Driving the g/'s neon makes me feel like less of a man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 if they are dripping, its the injectors..but those are know for the spring in the reg to break. id do both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyinbrian Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 I wouldn't buy new injectors until I spent $49 on a tbi rebuild kit. The kit has the injector o-rings included which is normally what the problem is with the dripping at the injectors. Plus you get a new diaphragm for the regulator. Buying a new regulator and injectors is throwing money away IMO. Like the others said too, hook up the O2 sensor. The ECM does not use the O2 sensor in open loop. Once the truck gets up to operating temp and goes into closed loop it is looking for the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 if they are dripping, its the injectors..but those are know for the spring in the reg to break. id do bothI most likely will. Will suck if it doesn't fix it I wouldn't buy new injectors until I spent $49 on a tbi rebuild kit. The kit has the injector o-rings included which is normally what the problem is with the dripping at the injectors. Plus you get a new diaphragm for the regulator. Buying a new regulator and injectors is throwing money away IMO. Like the others said too, hook up the O2 sensor. The ECM does not use the O2 sensor in open loop. Once the truck gets up to operating temp and goes into closed loop it is looking for the sensor. the rubber o rings that sit at the bottom of the injector? How does that cause a drip? I'm not saying youre wrong, but just curious as it's not been mentioned before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyinbrian Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 No problem. The bottom o-ring keeps the fuel from pushing past the injector pod and into the intake. Look at the pic below. You can see a small hole where the injector goes...that is where the fuel enters the pod. The o-ring is the only thing keeping it from pouring into the intake. http://marine-performance-parts.com/images/products/detail/gmtbiinjectorpod.1.jpg Here is another pic. Not your system, but it gives you an idea of how it works. http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/9103/chiltonimages/9103/91035g09L.gif Here's your injector on the right. Notice the screen. That is where fuel enters. One o-ring below and one up top to seal it into the injector pod. http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/Injectors%20and%20Fuel%20Supply_files/port_tbi_inj.gif I don't know everything about these, but I have managed to get a 496 cubic inch, full roller big block to run quite well with a tbi on my own tune. Lots of reading, asking questions, trial and error. Just trying to save you from throwing money away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 these also drip from the pintel as they do wear there. and most fo the time i pull one apart to rebuild it, the damn spring is broken. that system has been around for over 20 years now. when your used to seeing them every day, there is a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I went ahead and got two new injectors tonight. Had to go to two different advance stores to get them. $150 so I'm hoping this is my problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 so I installed the new injectors and cleaned the IAC. Fired it up and it idled great. Turned the wheel to the left and it died. Repeat and it stayed running. Shut it down, fired it up and it died again when I turned the wheel. I'm really at a loss with this piece of shit. Injectors still look to have a drip(mainly the passenger side injector. Also, uploaded a video of the injectors at idle. Can't tell in person, but in the video they seem to be pulsating. You can't see this when looking at it in person. Is this normal? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_SUb0tRGDc Not sure why the sound is screwed up but when I revved it up it backfired through the exhaust a little bit. Now what should I replace? lol I'm going out now to try to get a video of how it dies now. My guess is it won't die since I want it to. edit-when it bogs down at the halfway mark I was pushing up on the egr plunger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 how do I go about hooking the volt meter up to my fuel pump to see if the volts are right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 How much fluid is in the P/S pump? Disconnect the acc belt for the pump and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 How much fluid is in the P/S pump? Disconnect the acc belt for the pump and try it. it's full. PS doesn't make noise and it turns nice and smooth. I just dropped it off with a guy that has a business out of his garage. He wants to toss an o2 sensor in it and he's going to go through all of the vacuum lines, etc and is supposed to call me later and tell me of his findings. s10 - 1 Me - 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 just got it back. The only thing he could find that needed replaced was the IAC. He had a couple laying around and threw one in. Drov it up and down the driveway and said it never stalled once after doing so. I got in it and drove it home. Seemed to be in good shape and wasn't stalling at stop signs. Backed into the driveway, turn the wheel and it died:( Still doesn't restart unless you turn the wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 I guess it's broken. J/K Try unhooking the belt from the P/S. Then start it and turn the wheel. Even though it's not making any noise I think that or the Steering box are the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 checked the codes last night for the hell of it and got the o2, egr, map sensor and tps code(first it's thrown this one). Cleared them and haven't checked yet to see if they're back or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 hasn't thrown any codes back up but it's still dying every now and then. Any last guesses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 fuel pressure... also be sure to check volume. these are known for have the correct pressure, but not enough volume and can cause this aswell.. but if the injector is still dripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 so go out and buy a fuel prssure gauge and tie it in before the TBI? It looks like it has a drip to me. did you watch the youtube video above by chance? I just think it's weird that is sometimes let me drive for quite a while and then others I can't go five foot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 is the harness across the back of the motor rubbed thru, grounding out the module? i have seen that several times on s-10's.. on the s-10, you can amp test the pump, or pull the filter, and use a gm adapter there. is it dieing with more then 1/4 tank of gas in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 also thought about trying some seafoam to see if it does anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_SUb0tRGDc humm yeah..thats not right.. the injector pattern should not change with it just idling like that... unless it just a bouncy camera man... hard to tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 is the harness across the back of the motor rubbed thru, grounding out the module? i have seen that several times on s-10's.. on the s-10, you can amp test the pump, or pull the filter, and use a gm adapter there. is it dieing with more then 1/4 tank of gas in it?haven't noticed anything wrong with the wiring. The module on the distributor? I have a few people tell me to reseat it and see if anything changes. Can I get the adapter at advance? It dies no matter how much is in the tank. At the moment it is close to full Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 humm yeah..thats not right.. the injector pattern should not change with it just idling like that... unless it just a bouncy camera man... hard to tell I really don't think the pattern is right. I'm tired of just throwing money at it though, but need it running. Sucks I can't just get something else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I really don't think the pattern is right. I'm tired of just throwing money at it though, but need it running. Sucks I can't just get something else if it really does look like that, its not right.... with steady rpm, it should stay steady itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 if it really does look like that, its not right.... with steady rpm, it should stay steady itself. Where's the best place to check the volts on the pump? Back at the pump or? What about the relay? Is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator? if the problem is before the injectors. There's not much else it can be besides the regulator, pump or bad ground, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 you dont test the voltage.. you amp test the system. theres a test connector to amp test that system. hence why there is not pressure port for a gauge. system runs 2-4 amps. these was bad about long term issue's(once the pump got hot, it would show its ass) i would take my dvom, set it to amps, stick one lead into the test connector, the other goes to battery positive. it it tested in range, leave it hooked up and hit min max on the dvom and come back in a hour. and i have all ready stated that these are bad about the regulator spring breaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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