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The Juicy wants to go faster in his C5Z thread...


JuicedH22

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So, I decided to do a cam swap, then it grew a tad, just thought I would share here...

 

I wanted to go wait, save and go bigger cubes, but with a kid on the way, that is just not going to happen. So, instead just went with a cam and supporting mods...

 

Adding:

-Vengeance Racing VRX5 cam (236/238 .601/.605 113 LSA)

-PRC 675 spring kit (good for .675 lift (obviously))

-comp push rods

-deka 60lb injectors

-LS2 timing chain

-Melling HV oil pump

-LS3 throttle body

-FAST 102mm intake.

ti muffler bypass mod (not good for any HP, just a little louder)

 

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/DSCF0162.jpg

 

Hoping to get +440whp.... and be able to run high 12s :rofl:

 

 

 

I have been dynoing the car after tuning, between each major bolt-on change.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/Dave_Dyno_Pulls_2.jpg

 

-The GREEN is the completely stock, untouched, dyno pull.

-The RED is after the vararam intake and street tuning. (sorry, we didnt have the A/F tailpipe sniffer in)

-The BLUE adds on the headers (LG PROs), non-catted xpipe, and retuned (street)

 

Take note of the big pickup of 18ft*lbs of torque at 3k rpm thanks to the long tube headers.

 

All numbers are SAE corrected, with a smoothing of 5

 

 

Oh, and for those wondering about why in the world I went w/ 60 lb injectors...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/DSCF0166.jpg

 

I went ahead and purchased a dry kit (Harris Speedworks Sudden Impact dry kit). But I will not be installing till I do a clutch upgrade (maybe later this summer, if I am not overwhelmed with taking care of Juicy Jr.). My research on CF/tech, and talking to Danny Popp (friend and local vette guru), the zo6 clutch should be able to handle the cam, but no way it will take the n2o.

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I assembled the intake manifold, but have decided the "Professional Products" complete fuel rail kit, is a complete piece of shit (once again proving you get what you pay for). I do not want my car to burn to the ground like another another poor c5z due to fuel spraying on hot headers,

 

soooo I contacted IPS motorsports in CBus, and they just so happened to have an ls3 rail off a customers car who wanted to sell it.

 

Here is what the fuel rails look like currently, but like I said, the cheap billet rails are coming off. (what makes them so bad for one, is instead of using the quality oring seal fittings like most companies, they use just pipe thread fittings, and al. pipe threads tend to gaul, which one of mine did) Also notice how stupid long the crossover hose is that they supplied...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/0422101840-00.jpg

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/0422101841-00.jpg

 

Turns out "professional products" is made in china (honestly) :rolleyes:

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one funny picture i took:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/0501101151-00.jpg

16 magnet wands from Sears: $22 bucks

Extra insurance to not drop a lifter: Priceless

 

 

And how it sits right now:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/0502102055-00.jpg

 

Just need to get the ls3 fuel rail and figure out what to do w/ the Vent tube coming off the valve cover (no connection on an ls3 TB). Might just cap it with a breather filter till I figure out a more permanent solution.

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do a catch can setup off that valve cover... one hose from the valve cover to the catch can, then the other hose you can plumb before the tb to draw away out of the can.(plus it will catch all the oil that does come from there.(cheap black $20 ebay catch will do the job, but there are nice pretty $$$$ ones out there... biggest seller i have at the moment is the upr ones.. all the stang guys love them for looks and easy of use and install, but i have been using them in alot of none ford stuff too.) hope this helps.;)
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Yea, that is what I was thinking of doing. I just dont have a good spot to plumb back in before the TB thanks to the vararam powerduct/intake setup. I dont really want to cut into the duct, but may have to.
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I thought "faster" from you was going to consist of Penske's, T1 bars, slicks, etc.

 

yea, my road racing is on a hiatus for some time... baby means no free weekends alone. I will be relegated to autoxing this summer....

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Yea, that is what I was thinking of doing. I just dont have a good spot to plumb back in before the TB thanks to the vararam powerduct/intake setup. I dont really want to cut into the duct, but may have to.

all you have to to is a drill a hole in the plastic and tap a hose fitting into it... bang suction ;)

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Nice cam selection. When are you doing heads? Did you port the intakemanifold.

Just the 243s for now. I was budget limited, but in the fall/next winter may get a 2.5 ported set, or go another direction. Intake manifold is not ported, and I am not even using the 102 really, as I still have a 90mm TB. Should be good for now, unless i do eventually go bigger cubes where i might get more gains from it.

 

i might have the red tube with one already in it. I also have the wet plate kit to work with your set up. Ill look for the tube if i can find it you can have it.

 

If you have it, and can find it, that would be awesome. Let me know :)

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Oh, in other news, got the rails, and finished filling fluids.

 

Put on a guessed base tune from a buddy's MS4 cammed ls1 (modified a little). BUT, no dice, cant get the car to hold idle. Something with the ETC I suspect, but have to figure out what is going on. It just dies unless i give it a hair bit of gas to get it to hold 'idle'. It will rev up fine too, but just dies if I let off the gas pedal completely.

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Oh, in other news, got the rails, and finished filling fluids.

 

Put on a guessed base tune from a buddy's MS4 cammed ls1 (modified a little). BUT, no dice, cant get the car to hold idle. Something with the ETC I suspect, but have to figure out what is going on. It just dies unless i give it a hair bit of gas to get it to hold 'idle'. It will rev up fine too, but just dies if I let off the gas pedal completely.

 

 

You need to drill the hole in the TB blade bigger.

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The drilling a hole thing is a trick for cable throttled cars. I have an ETC. The ecm automatically adjusts the throttle blade for idle conditions, it has a parameter for effective area specifically for when the TB size is different, along with several other idle parameters... I just have to figure out WTF is going on.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Its Alive!!!!! Took awhile longer, thanks to having an incompatible throttlebody (09-10 LS3 TB is not compatible w/ my PCM/TAC (car is drive by wire)). So I had to buy an 05-08 LS2 TB.

 

Yes, this video quality from my cell phone is horrible, just just thought I would "try" to show a sound/vid clip of the car starting up and idling.

 

 

 

Now it just needs a serious tune, and I will be back on the road!

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  • 1 month later...

Well, tuning is completed... I wont lie, I am disappointed with the numbers. Yes, numbers are just numbers, but I tend to believe them, based on my performance against a stock ls3 vette (side by side throughout).

 

The good news is for tuning efforts... the street tuning was pretty damn dead nuts to dyno tuning, and the dyno tuning even had input/assistance from Tracy Scott (some of you lsx guys might know him), so it seems more legit.

 

Green - Last pull prior to installing the cam

Blue - First pull on the dyno today, with no changes (street tune)

Red - Final dyno tune pull. The large bump came primarily from increasing timing (about 3 degrees more). Tried moving the commanded AFR around quite a bit, and it really made no difference between 12.5 and 12.8 commanded at the upper end.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/zo6ftw/Dave_Dyno_Pulls_3.jpg

 

 

415whp 377tq

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