D42 Track Day Pics

[MrMeanGreen]

Lol. Hey JJ, ya want this piece of your car in the backseat before your pass?

[Guest 614Streets]

Here is a video that Brady@ppc shot for me!

 

Watch when I start my burnout the chunk of rubber that hits the wall. It popped the D/S marker light out and cracked it, popped the bumper off and cracked the piece of plastic that the bumper snaps to. At the finish line you could hear a burp of the throttle, I was running out of fuel. lol This is the same day that I ran 11.03@129.52mph with at 1.60 60'

 

Not sure what I ran on this pass, but it wasn't good. I spun off the line and was running out of fuel at the finish line. The digital read out said "16 miles until emty" I forgot that I didn't have a fuel cell with a sponge in it to keep the fuel from sloshing around. I was sucking air in the fuel lines.

 

As you can tell my car doesn't squat in the rear. I need to change to a differant spring in the rear. I currently have a QA1 14" 250lb spring in there (to stiff) my shocks are 1 click from fully soft (12 clicks total)

 

This is the same pass that anthony ran up and unplugged the marker light and threw it in the back seat (video edited out)

 

Thx Brady for shooting this for me! Sorry guys it wasn't my best pass of the day.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaF8H39ojkM

 

JJ you might not be headed in the right direction going for squat. Most solid rear cars when drag racing shoot better 60 foots with anti squat. What is happening is by going for more squat you rear end is actaully trying to twist upwards to the car and actually moving the tire weight off of the pavement. The car dips down because it looks like the body weight is compressing the springs but its not.

 

The reason why you shocks do better now on a light setting is because they are single adjustable and only fight to hold the axle from pulling away from the car underbody. In a sense on your lightest setting helping the spring work.

 

 

 

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/suspension-control-arms-lower-control-arms-che-engineering-c-5231_5400_5402_5411_5420/che-2010-mustang-gt-anti-squat-brackets-p-25642?zenid=3784d8eafc9e0f17ef6ae0ca9dd96b14

 

 

Heres a 2010 mustang with the rear end raising when the car is launched. At 2:28 notice his rear end staying still and raising a bit the rear and then look at the front. You need your front end to travel better.

 

Same thing here on this 9 secong gt 500 at :38 watch the rear end body rise and seperate from the tires , but watch the front end lift!

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDn13O4qX6w&feature=related

 

 

Just my opinion and something I read about in a book from the 80's called turbo 350.

The theroy of anti squat works on my car also and I set it up it up according to that.

1:11

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBzVLhGJsps&feature=player_embedded

[CRAWDAD]

JJ you might not be headed in the right direction going for squat. Most solid rear cars when drag racing shoot better 60 foots with anti squat. What is happening is by going for more squat you rear end is actaully trying to twist upwards to the car and actually moving the tire weight off of the pavement. The car dips down because it looks like the body weight is compressing the springs but its not.

 

The reason why you shocks do better now on a light setting is because they are single adjustable and only fight to hold the axle from pulling away from the car underbody. In a sense on your lightest setting helping the spring work.

 

 

 

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/suspension-control-arms-lower-control-arms-che-engineering-c-5231_5400_5402_5411_5420/che-2010-mustang-gt-anti-squat-brackets-p-25642?zenid=3784d8eafc9e0f17ef6ae0ca9dd96b14

 

 

 

 

I do have the LCA relocation brackets welded to the 9" housing (or anti squat brackets) They change the instant center. I also have an anti-roll bar that is welded in too.

 

I loosend up the front shocks on this pass.

 

It looks like the front comes up a little and then when it falls back on its face you can hear the rear tires start spinning. What do you think?

[Guest 614Streets]

What shocks are you running up front? Have you set them all the way loose?

Are your front springs adjustable? Do you keep the sway bar on the car at the track?

 

I think most of your tuning first starts with better and faster travel up front. Also is this a stick shift car?

 

 

I would get more free violent front travel and then tighten up the rear shocks after that.

[CRAWDAD]

What shocks are you running up front? Have you set them all the way loose?

Are your front springs adjustable? Do you keep the sway bar on the car at the track?

 

I think most of your tuning first starts with better and faster travel up front. Also is this a stick shift car?

 

QA1 Coil overs up front with 12" 150lb springs. 14 total turns in the shock. I set them at fully stiff and then backed them down 9 turns. I can use a spaner wrench to tighen the springs up.

 

NO front sway bar, not on the street either. No rear sway bar-it was replaced with the anti-roll bar.

 

Yes this is a manual trans mission? (6spd t-6060)

 

Dumping the clutch, nets a John Force burnout. sliping the clutch higher than 3500 gets the same results.

 

I probably need to tighten the springs up on the front with the spanner wrench and then loosen the front shocks all the way. leave the rears alone. What are you thinking?

[Guest 614Streets]

QA1 Coil overs up front with 12" 150lb springs. 14 total turns in the shock. I set them at fully stiff and then backed them down 9 turns. I can use a spaner wrench to tighen the springs up.

 

NO front sway bar, not on the street either. No rear sway bar-it was replaced with the anti-roll bar.

 

Yes this is a manual trans mission? (6spd t-6060)

 

Dumping the clutch, nets a John Force burnout. sliping the clutch higher than 3500 gets the same results.

 

I probably need to tighten the springs up on the front with the spanner wrench and then loosen the front shocks all the way. leave the rears alone. What are you thinking?

 

Most definately , set the springs at as high pressure as they go and loosen the front shocks all the way. Then try two passes one with rear shocks as they are and second with them fully tight.

 

What tire pressure do you run in the et radials?

[Guest 614Streets]

Also one last thing have you put a mark with soft chaulk on your tire and adjacent wheel lip to make sure the tire isnt spining at times on the rim? Its probably not likely to look to much into that now but as you go , if it does then you can run beadlocks , forgive me if you already do.

[CRAWDAD]

usually set them at 15psi I have had them any where from 14-17psi

 

No Bead locks, Not screwed either.

 

I have made a dot on each tire with "dial-in" where the valve stim is to make sure the rim wasn't spinning in the tire

[Richard Cranium]

Damn, looks like fun was had by all. Wish I had made it. I had the trip of shame back to Columbus with my car on a trailer. Didn't even make it to the track and broke it.

[CRAWDAD]

That's sucks