Diamonds Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 So, our front door spills into our family room and the carpet is getting dirty. We want to take that rectangular space and lay some tile. The space is about 5 feet by 8 feet max. 1. whats the average cost for someone to lay tile? 2. what should i look for when buying tile? 3. does anybody here lay tile on the side? cant wait for the "laying ppe" jokes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 Do it yourself. I have a tile saw in gahanna you can borrow. Cut back the area you want tiled with a carpet blade leave 1/2" material extra on the carpet , Kilz the bare subfloor underneath let it dry 24 hours. Get a 5 gallon bucket and thinset for floor tile , notched trowel, mix it up let it slake, toss it on , lay the tile with spacers , cut the ones for the edges, wait 48 hours, grout,wipe, trim it off with stained ripped oak or mahogany predrilled with small square drive screws , have sex on it to christen it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillJoy Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 Watch DIY Network. Do project yourself. ??? Profit :thumbup: KillJoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 If you wait until the casts come off, I will come help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bruh Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 If you wait until the casts come off, I will come help you. when does your cast come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 when does your cast come off? Suppose to be end of feb, but then theres rehab to learn to use it. I figure by spring at the latest I am good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGH STEELERS Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I could help you. For now just go to Home Depot and price out some tile that will cover the area. It's hard to tell someone which tile is better since it's coming from Home Depot, if you need help let me know some night after work I can meet you some place (Home Depot) and we can look at what you want to purchase. Once that is decided, then lay the tile over the area you want to cover and this should give you a perspective of the area you want to cut out. Just let me know, if you want 'pm' me and let me know. I have all the tools to do the work. I would say if you are going to look for someone else to do the work, look at around $5.00 a sq. ft. If you can learn from what I can show you, it won't cost you much at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 i can probably help you as well, and im not working now so i can come over whenever. you'll just need to rent a tile cutter as i dont have one. its not hard, and if you're doing a section that size, its about the size of my lower bath i did. tiling is one day, and grout is after the mortar/thinset...are you doing this on a concrete floor or wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 . you'll just need to rent a tile cutter as i dont have one. Borrow mine I redid my mothers master and 1/2 bath and bought one years ago. Its in gahanna and its an excuse to stop by and see her pm me for number and your more than welcome to borrow it , I'll even drop it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 That sounds good...i can stop by to get it too if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam1647545489 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Jake has my wet tile saw if you need one. Its very easy to do. Just do it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRed05 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I've spilled on the front door carpet too after laying some pipe on the side. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:Pvci4MJnHbPCwM:http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt91/BHughes4/open/csi_yeah_skyline.jpg&t=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamonds Posted December 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 ^^^^ hahaha, wow guys thansk for the support. i'd love to have a couple people over on a saturday and knock it out with a borrowed saw!!! The floor underneath is wood. What weekend day would work for everyone? I'll buy the beer and pizzas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianZ06 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I just did the same thing at my front door. I'm no expert but mine turned out ok. Mine is 4' x 5'. It's also nice to have a helper if it's your first time. I used larger tiles at front door 12x12's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckin Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I can help ya out, with info or if you need it installed. It's very very important to put a good subfloor under the tile! Use Durarock or a sheetrock for tile floors. Prep and clean wood floor, Sand any high joints if need be. Set the underlayment in motor ( using a notched trowel), Secure underlayment to floor using recommended screws or spiral nails ( don't use roofing nails or any other non specific nails or screws....they can bleed and rust through the motor). Screw down every 6-8 inches in a staggered pattern. Tape your joints if you have any and then Skim coat the floor, let dry then scrap any high spots. Use a 1/4"-3/8" notched trowel (depending on tile size) to lay your motor. Install your tile. Depending on your tile material you may need to butter the backside of the tile before you lay it in. Work the tile into the motor using firm but gentle pressure. After finished you need to let it set for atleast 24hrs before grout. You can use spacers if you want, but most of the time i find them useless overall. Tiles usually vary in overall size, ex: some may be 12" some be off by a 1/16th might not sound like a lot but if doing much at all it will compound and you'll have a problem. NEVER NEVER PUT TILE DIRECTLY ON A WOOD FLOOR! YOUR ASKING FOR TROUBLE, ANYONE WHO DOES THIS DOSEN'T KNOW WHAT THEIR DOING. GOODLUCK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamonds Posted December 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I can help ya out, with info or if you need it installed. It's very very important to put a good subfloor under the tile! Use Durarock or a sheetrock for tile floors. Prep and clean wood floor, Sand any high joints if need be. Set the underlayment in motor ( using a notched trowel), Secure underlayment to floor using recommended screws or spiral nails ( don't use roofing nails or any other non specific nails or screws....they can bleed and rust through the motor). Screw down every 6-8 inches in a staggered pattern. Tape your joints if you have any and then Skim coat the floor, let dry then scrap any high spots. Use a 1/4"-3/8" notched trowel (depending on tile size) to lay your motor. Install your tile. Depending on your tile material you may need to butter the backside of the tile before you lay it in. Work the tile into the motor using firm but gentle pressure. After finished you need to let it set for atleast 24hrs before grout. You can use spacers if you want, but most of the time i find them useless overall. Tiles usually vary in overall size, ex: some may be 12" some be off by a 1/16th might not sound like a lot but if doing much at all it will compound and you'll have a problem. NEVER NEVER PUT TILE DIRECTLY ON A WOOD FLOOR! YOUR ASKING FOR TROUBLE, ANYONE WHO DOES THIS DOSEN'T KNOW WHAT THEIR DOING. GOODLUCK like i said, im open to having ppl help or paying someone to install. i'd gladly make it worth your while. Either way, guys, seriously, thanks for everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianZ06 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Here is a picture of my amatuer work. You will need some hardiboard or something similiar to go over your wood floor. Also needed is the aluminum strips that go on the edge of the tiles. Maybe some carpet tack strips so you can roll the carpet edge against the tiles edge. Sounds like you have someone already lined that has done it before, a helper is always nice. I don't mine doing my own but being a rookie and always learning by my mistakes I hate to mess up someone elses job and make it look bad . http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc178/1fstws6/100_1742.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 NEVER NEVER PUT TILE DIRECTLY ON A WOOD FLOOR! YOUR ASKING FOR TROUBLE, ANYONE WHO DOES THIS DOSEN'T KNOW WHAT THEIR DOING. Nothing wrong with putting tile down on wood if you use kilz or other sealers on the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianZ06 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Yea only if you have a nice smooth surface. I would still use a backer. Just depends on your floor . Also the backer board can be used to level off your floor to your door if it is to low. On mine I wish I would have doubled up a backer board to make it higher to meet the bottom of my door. It works fine and does not affect anything but when you come in you have a small drop off to the tile floor. Know one else would even notice it but me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 wood will flex unlike cement board or similar. ask me how i know. we (mainly my g/fs dad, before i learned a lot of the stuff i know now) put tile down directly on like 3/4" particle board subfloor, and pretty much every bit of grout in there is cracked and needs redone. one of the tiles even cracked, and its in a spot where it doesnt get walked on (right next to the wall, between the toilet and the wall) the problem you may run into though is putting cement board ontop of the wood floor thats there, then mortar and tile on top, you'll have tile thats taller than the rest of the floor. then you'll get chipped tile edges, stub your toes, risk tripping on it, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 You guys are right it does depend on the wood floors condition and isn't universally applied but it can be done if the floor is solid and secure ,sealed ,and straight. Certainly wouldnt argue against cement backer boarding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianZ06 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 wood will flex unlike cement board or similar. ask me how i know. we (mainly my g/fs dad, before i learned a lot of the stuff i know now) put tile down directly on like 3/4" particle board subfloor, and pretty much every bit of grout in there is cracked and needs redone. one of the tiles even cracked, and its in a spot where it doesnt get walked on (right next to the wall, between the toilet and the wall) the problem you may run into though is putting cement board ontop of the wood floor thats there, then mortar and tile on top, you'll have tile thats taller than the rest of the floor. then you'll get chipped tile edges, stub your toes, risk tripping on it, etc. Every situation is different. You don't want raw tile edges showing anywhere. That's why you use the aluminum edging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianZ06 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Listen to me here I'm talking like I'm some expert on home repair which I'm not . I just have a lot of hands on experience from remodeling my old house that was built in 57. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckin Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Nothing wrong with putting tile down on wood if you use kilz or other sealers on the wood. I would never do it, mortor will not adhere as well to wood compared to hardi or cement board. Plus it will flex, expand and contract, cause loose tile and grout joints to crack. I've seen it happen numerous times. The Alumnium for the edges is called..."Schluter" and can be found at HD/Lowes But Hamilton Parker is a good place to get it as well. They have a better selection on sizes and colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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