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A qustion about photogrphy..


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Camera is a Nikon D200

 

i have used 2 different lenses..

 

I am having a issue with whites and yellows getting washed out..

 

how can i fix this"??

 

Example

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c63/mybuicksfaster/Leo/1.jpg

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If your finding photos a little to "bright" you can dial them down a bit using exposure compensation. Go to something like negative 2/3 stop and see how you like it, then adjust from there.

 

I shoot canon so I typically have to adjust +2/3 stop to brighten things up a bit.

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In addition to the above, you might have also been better off in this shot to have used more of a center weighted metering mode. If shot in matrix the camera is looking at all the zones evenly and the I can see the tree causing it to amp up the exposure a bit more than needed where If it was weighted to the center it may not have.

 

I'm on an iPad not my machine so I can't as easily see your exit or histogram values.

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Well i check on my camera and uder the metering/exposure option, center ewighted is at 8mm

 

i also have an issue even with a black felt background with the whites and yellow

 

This guy has some pretty vivid Yellows but they dont show so well i took probably 20 photos before getting this one

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c63/mybuicksfaster/Leopard%20geckos%20for%20sale/HHYM1.jpg

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Well i check on my camera and uder the metering/exposure option, center ewighted is at 8mm

 

i also have an issue even with a black felt background with the whites and yellow

 

This guy has some pretty vivid Yellows but they dont show so well i took probably 20 photos before getting this one

 

 

 

The exif says that your contrast and saturation is turned up. but I don't really see that in the image. Maybe try to do a reset of the camera settings.

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Also if you don't shoot in raw mode, you should. It will give the best results though im not sure if the d200 has 16 bit raw files.

 

Looks like RAW for the D200 is 12bit. If you want 16bit you have to shoot in TIFF format.

 

My D300 will shoot 14bit RAW.

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Another issue i am having is i getting the whole gecko in focus like this one

 

Your issue there is the fact that you're shooting it at roughly 195mm or nearly a 300mm in 35mm equiv. mode.

 

f/4.8 is pretty wide open. If it's not a macro lens you will need to back way way up and stop down. However, don't go beyond f/11 or it's going to have diffraction issues pretty apparent.

 

What lenses to you have?

 

Here's a simliar photo of one of Anthony's. Hand lends some scale to the image and DOF while shallow focuses the attention on the face.

 

http://www.pbase.com/timothylauro/image/133560575/original.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
OKay another issue with my lens..

 

I at full zoom i have to be abouy 3/4 feet away to get it into focus?

 

is there a different type of macro lens i need?

or am i messing something up?

 

 

Your lens shows a Minimum focusing distance of 59 inches & allows macro photography with a maximum magnification of 1 to 2

 

Compare that with a Canon 100mm Macro that will pull a life-size (1x) magnification at a working distance of only 5.9in. Tameron makes a wonderful 90mm Macro with a minimum focal distance of 11.4 in

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Thanks!...

What would a ring flash be advisable?

 

If Macro is something you are going to focus on doing...pun intended...yes. If you're going to shoot using a light box or portable lighting set up with you, perhaps not.

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The geckos are my main concern right now so yeah on the macro

 

 

You might want to consider just getting a smaller camera dedicated to macro work. Personally, I don't use my DSLR's for macro work. I don't because it's pricey to do so and I am not driving revenue from it.

 

However pick up a used bridge model for dirt cheap and have at it.

 

Here are some shots from a 7yr old 8mp Canon.

 

http://www.pbase.com/nero_design/image/31353489

http://www.pbase.com/nero_design/image/31842950

http://www.pbase.com/nero_design/image/31844612

http://www.pbase.com/nero_design/image/31051239

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