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CLEETUS IV: First Ford!


zeitgeist57

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Yesterday, I bought T.J.'s (00TypeR) 1982 F100. I drove it a couple of weekends ago on a whim and it just spoke to my soul. It was one of the reasons why I want to sell Cleetus III now (see for sale thread). Very happy with my purchase and looking forward to getting this thing in great condition. One of the biggest selling points for me is that there is a good amount of surface rust, but no major rust holes and the floor board and frame are actually really solid. I need to prep-and-paint before the first salt of the winter to avoid future rust issues hopefully.

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5386

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5384

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5383

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5382

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5385

 

I was thinking about a Project Management thread only because I believe if I have one, then I'll keep up with fixing up the truck. Hold me accountable, CR! :)

 

REALISTIC PLANS:

POWERTRAIN: Get the 300 I-6 running right. It cranks well but is slow to fire up like there is a fuel/spark issue, but it runs fine under load. Install a PerTronix ignition kit, and a general tuneup. Drives well now, but make it better. Mr. Gasket Floor shifter for 3-speed manual needs adjusting. T.J. also gave me a heavy-duty 4-speed (granny gear) Ford tranny, but I'm not sure I'm going to swap it in without a little more research into what it would take to do so. *EDIT* Get rebuilt engine, or rebuild it myself!!! Trolling the intarbutts for ideas...

 

 

SHOCKS: The steering, tires, brakes are all solid, but it wallows pretty badly. Maybe do air shocks in the rear to assist with heavier mulch/trash loads.

BODY WORK: This is the big thing for me...you've seen "Murdered", "StormTroopered", Panda'd", and even "Smurfed"? Well, I'm going all "Santa Claus'd" up in this bitch. Or maybe "Radio Flyer'd"??? Respray red body, redo the white steelies, polish the dog dishes, paint the rear bumper white, maybe even a white grill treatment and front bumper. :) Also, ditch the tri-pod mirrors for peep mirrors on the door gutters.

INTERIOR WORK: The interior needs cosmetic work. I've thought about getting gingham (plaid) white-red outdoor vinyl tablecloth fabric, and use spray adhesive to redo the door panels and dash pad.

 

UNREALISTIC MODS:

*I really want to keep the truck stock appearing on the outside, but It sits pretty low (especially compared to CLeetus III) so I've toyed with the idea of dropping the front a bit...give it a lowered rake like a VW bug or 70's-style hot rod. I figure that might help as well for heavier loads in the bed.

*In order to strip the frame, redo the spare tire, clean up the rear axle and paint, I've also toyed with the idea of TAKING THE BED OFF. With this, I could undercoat the rear of the bed, and paint the bed and cab more thoroughly before reassembling. I'd put it back on of course.

*If the bed was off, I could redo the single exhaust with a Flowmaster 40-style muffler and side-exit exhaust on the passenger side.

 

In all, I really love the way this truck drives now, and I think it will be a relatively simple project for fixing up. Please feel free to offer input, suggestions, sites to consider, products I should use for undercoating, bed coating, painting (I have a cheap spray gun and a large stand-up air compressor). Ford guys, this is my first Ford product after three Chevy full-size trucks: I like it alot so far, but let me know what else I should be looking at doing...

Edited by zeitgeist57
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Welp, after talking with FyrhazrdGT and Cordell...sounds like the 300 is a little tired. I'm looking for a replacement engine, but also investigating whether I want to do a cheap bearing/gasket/re-ring on the stock block. We'll see...

 

Any suggestions on re-ring kits (Summit?) and a TBD rebuild party...or a decent-running 300 for sale?

Edited by zeitgeist57
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The 300 is one of the best motors ever made period.. I have seen them run past 400k and they make more tq than their v8 bros

 

Better on gas too

 

Keep that motor if it really does need rebuilt. It would be rare very rare. Like a ls guy knowing their heads were off a 351 Windsor.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes the head comment is true talk to any manufacturer. Well the ports are exactly the same anyway

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Looking to swap in a newer motor...any takers?

 

I met a guy this afternoon that has a rusty '93 F150 with 293k miles on the odo. The inline-6 is greasy, but it starts up and runs very smoothly, with good oil pressure. It will need a full gasket set, and the oilpan is pretty rusty so I will probably use mine. For the price we agreed to, I am hoping to get some pipe-hitting CR members to help me do a quick compression test and then yank the engine...all I need is the running longblock from rear main seal to waterpump, and oil pan to valve cover.

 

I'll be in Pittsburgh tomorrow, and likely in Cleveland on Monday. Ideally, we could pull the engine Sunday afternoon. The guy is located in NE Columbus, behind Oakland Nursery. He's got a cherry picker, and I'll take Cleetus 3 to bring the engine back to my house in UA. If you help me all the way through getting it off my truck and onto an engine stand, I'll supply the beer and pizza.

 

Please let me know if you're available by PM. We can talk about scheduling. Thanks in advance!

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First Ford! blah, blah, 1982 F100. I drove it a couple of weekends ago on a whim and it just spoke to my soul. More blah, blah, blah + pics...

 

Welcome do the good guys team. :) Get rid of that other Chebby ya got and we'll call it a good life. :lolguy:

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Hey does the trans from the 300 bolt up to my V8 in my 93? I would love to know how it is doing cause I don't have reverse much after I use it first thing in the morning. Plus my bed is rusted to shit. Might see how the drivers seat is also since mine is missing some padding, and if you have good drivers belt and clip for the seat belt we might need to do some trading.
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Are you talking about this guy's '93 beater? It's beat to shite. Duct tape on a totally destroyed bench seat, every panel has rust.

 

The only reason I'm getting the engine is it runs, doesn't tick, and it's dirty cheap.

 

SO DOES ANYONE WNAT TO HELP ME SWAP MOTORS? KTHXBYE!!!

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Cyl #3, we're gonna need to go ahead and move you downstairs into junk scrap B. We have some new shit coming in, and we need all the space we can get. So if you could just go ahead and pack up your stuff and move it down there, that would be terrific, OK?
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Well I did have some fun hacking into the that parts truck at Adam's house. Never would of thought that some guy off Craigslist would just give us tools, a truck, garage, and kids clothes to soak up oil or coolant. I now live my life buy "What would Adam do?" in every way...
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  • 4 weeks later...

Welp...ProjMgt thread not as motivating as I wanted it to be. :) Doesn't help that the truck still drives well enough for 5 cylinders, massive blowby, and no air cleaner!

 

I've been ripping apart the "newer" engine, but the Alternator bolt is dam near welded itself to the bracket. Impact gun not effective. Gonna try wailing on it some more.

 

What's a good way to clean off a greasy, grimy engine block at my house?

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On the alternator blot just use your floor jack bar on a braker bar and it will move. Don't bounce on it, but just smooth pressure and I'm guessing it will start moving. For that greasy mess just use some brake clean and a rag while wearing gloves. The hard stuff just get a brush and use some engine degresser.
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I like the idea of the floor jack and the breaker bar. As for cleaning I would be tempted to try simple green and a pressure washer, but you may force water into places in the motor you don't want water. For anything smaller than the block, I found the dishwasher does a good job, just make sure to do it when Angela is not around. Also, if you do, spray the parts down with some WD40 or other oil as soon as you take them out or they will start to rust in minutes.
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  • 3 weeks later...

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