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CLEETUS IV: First Ford!


zeitgeist57

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Would love help, but I've still got some work to do...the holes left from the mirrors in the doors, old fender emblem holes need to be Bondo'ed. Probably not going to get around to paint for a couple of weeks.

 

I went on DipYourCar.com...looks like I'll need 4 gallons of sprayable (pre-mixed) Plasti Dip for the body???

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been driving the truck around and enjoying it. Really want to get it painted sooner rather than later...

 

I'm now thinking about going back to matte paint. I'm nervous that my paint gun won't work with thinned Plastidip, and I don't want to get new equipment for a one-off paint job...

 

EDIT: Stopped by TSC today after a luncheon in Pickerington, grabbed some Valspar T&I Paint, Ford Red. Also got some naptha to thin it with. Over a gallon of materials - more than enough - for $35. Need some hardener, respirator, etc...sorry, Plastidip guys! :(

 

Also, going to pull the bed to replace the dented (and pinholed) front bed panel, which will allow me to sand and paint the frame as well...

 

Too many projects, not enough time. :)

Edited by zeitgeist57
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6401

 

I lowered the front end this afternoon, and I have to say I'm really pleased. Cut 1.5 coils out of the front spring which lowered it a surprising amount, about 3-4". The great thing is it was fast and FREE, and there is only a little amount of daylight between the i-beams and bumpstops: i.e., there is no more I can lower for free without redesigning the front suspension (which I'm not doing) ;)

 

I drove it and the ride improved for the better! :) All the old farts that DD their Fords may not like the firmer ride, but I was used to a lowered Corvette; this is the BEST SUSPENSION UPGRADE I"VE EVER DONE FOR FREE!

 

There's a bit of camber, but I was surprised at how little. Not worried at all, as it handles a little better in turns, and with cheapie 15" tires a little more wear won't bother me in the long run.

 

Looking forward to lowering the rear with a front shackle flip...

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Looks good Clay. Can't wait to see the finished project.

 

Finished project? Projects get finished? Mine always morph into something new, the further I get the more the goal changes. :)

 

Sorry I haven't been around much to help out on this one Clay, glad to see that progress is happening. You've made more progress on this project than all my summer projects combined.

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I've been driving the truck after work on little errands this week and I'm really pleased with the front end. Sawmill HD peeps on Sat night said it definitely looks better in person; I agree. I'm going to flip the forward shackles in the rear and I'm sure it'll be at a stance I want.

 

The suspension definitely was a small thing that is making me have a lot of renewed focus. I'll get this thing painted and interior recovered in short order. :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105451

 

Lowered, but with driveline problems. No worries...will get it repaired soon. It is a little too low to haul stuff, so some Monroe Air shocks will be in order. Pics to come.

 

The frame and bed floor are solid, but there is a lot of scale rust. Looking to pull the bed next, to sand down and paint the rear end and truck bed. :thumbup:

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$57 worth of Monroe Air-Max air shocks in the rear, plumbed to a schrader valve just behind the rear bumper, gave it a 1-2" bump in the rear and eliminated the bottoming out. The old shocks had HOLES RUSTED THROUGH the metal boots...They had absolutely no charge left in them. Time for front shocks as well!

 

I'm impressed by the air shocks. Totally plain brown box and simple instructions, but all pieces and the shocks themselves were Made in USA. The shocks definitely felt heavy-duty, and the air lines, o-rings and valves were quality pieces. Test drive was very rewarding: I was impressed by how well the rear rode with only a bit of clearance to the bumpstops. Air shocks raised the rear bumper a touch, but the rear was far more solid than before.

 

Still a bit of driveline vibration to deal with to make the lowering job a success in my mind...

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$57 worth of Monroe Air-Max air shocks in the rear, plumbed to a schrader valve just behind the rear bumper, gave it a 1-2" bump in the rear and eliminated the bottoming out. The old shocks had HOLES RUSTED THROUGH the metal boots...They had absolutely no charge left in them. Time for front shocks as well!

 

I'm impressed by the air shocks. Totally plain brown box and simple instructions, but all pieces and the shocks themselves were Made in USA. The shocks definitely felt heavy-duty, and the air lines, o-rings and valves were quality pieces. Test drive was very rewarding: I was impressed by how well the rear rode with only a bit of clearance to the bumpstops. Air shocks raised the rear bumper a touch, but the rear was far more solid than before.

 

Still a bit of driveline vibration to deal with to make the lowering job a success in my mind...

 

we sell a lot of monroe shocks where i work. very rarely do we get a defected shock or a complaint. they make great stuff

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  • 3 months later...

Had a crazy fall...Veteran's Day weekend with some smoking awesome November weather? PAINT THE TEE-RUK!!!

 

My first real application of Bondo, after tack-welding the old mirror holes and "F100" emblems in the fenders closed. Primered (not shown) and I'll be taping tonight to hopefully paint tomorrow after church!!! :)

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6716

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6715

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6714

 

I did 3 apps of Bondo, making sure to feather in between. Hit them with 80grit discs on a Harbor Freight 6" random-orbit air sander. I didn't smooth out the drivers' door...as was revealed upon 2 coats of primer. FUGG IT...it's Cleetus, not a Ferrari 250! ;)

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Removed door handles, door locks, bumpers, all grillwork...

Finished up taping and papering the windows...

Degreased the entire body...

 

Forgot hardener, respirator, and mix bukkets. 4:30pm and the family comes home. I bitch about needing to get supplies to paint, as it's going to rain tomorrow. Wifey suggests moving truck into garage to paint next week...

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6726

 

Cleetus has never had it so good! :)

Edited by zeitgeist57
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  • 3 weeks later...

Wheels/front bumper/pitted trim going all white.

 

Was going to leave hood patina'd, but now thinking about artwork, patina racing stripes...

 

Still needs another coat or two. I did the mix wrong: instead of 8:1:1 for paint:naphtha:hardener, it was like 40:1:1...shit glomped on like rhino-lining. However, this paint takes 24 hrs to cure between coats and it's leveling really well. Look forward to another coat tomorrow!

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Just paint the lower sections on the outslde of the hood. Leave the inside large panels rusty vw ricer style.

 

Don't forget to spray the wheels with fresh white too!

 

I like this Idea, it would look cool and you can put a flat clear over the rust part ans seal it and stop the rust and make it easier to wash the shiny part without the rusty water running onto the shiny

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