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LS1 nitrous question


BStowers023

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I have a H/C bolt on 6 speed WS6. I was wondering if I could retard the timing 3 degrees and run a small shot (75 wet). I have Ford Racing 39lb injectors with a TRE 255lph fuel pump. First question is will this be safe for the motor? second question is how much will I lose on the motor side? any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
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Pulling 3 degrees isn't going to have much effect on N/A performance, but I'd set up an IAT resistor on a relay so it only pulls timing while spraying. If you have a 255lph pump you should be fine depending on what the motor makes power wise, those pumps will typically support 550-600 wheel. As long as its tuned properly your car should take much more then that, so 75 would be fine. It kind of depends on how agressive the car is tuned timing wise to know how much would be good to pull, but I'd start around 3-4 degrees as you should have a pretty good tuning window on that small of a shot.

 

Any questions you may have regarding this there are good resourses on LS1tech, and a few members here including myself are experienced in this topic. Just kind of depends on what you want to get out of a nitrous set-up, 75 isn't going to feel like much on a H/C car. Personally I'd set up at least 125 but thats just me, if you're anything like me 75 won't last long.

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Yeah the 75 is more just to start out with then kinda work my way up, was just curious if it was safe to run spray without a nitrous tune. I had a 99 TA with just bolt ons and no tune and put a 100 shot thru it and it ran strong but this one is a little more serious and plus its already tuned for N/A.
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I'd set up an IAT resistor on a relay so it only pulls timing while spraying.

 

 

75 isn't going to feel like much on a H/C car. Personally I'd set up at least 125 but thats just me, if you're anything like me 75 won't last long.

 

 

I started with a 75 shot, that only lasted a week. IAT resistor works great, I use that setup on my car to pull timing only when the system is armed.

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Linn And Cordell: Can you guys point in the right direction with a link on LS1tech? I am teh suxor @ search. Id like to spray 200 wet on the ole LS6...

 

Start by reading all this

http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1242567-spark-plug-info-jetting-faqs-all-nitrous-info-read-me.html

 

then do a search on non-projected tip plugs

 

when you understand why you should have all the accesories and why I run NGK BR7ef plugs then you'll get a pretty good understanding of what is going on. 200 shot starts getting into advanced teritory, thats when you need to understand safe tunes, proper distribution, and fueling in great detail.

 

Know your limits and don't get to them, understand that while addicting, the more you spray the more things need to be done in order to keep it safe. I could spray more but I'm at my personal limits of nitrous distribution through the intake, and fueling.

 

I love to talk about this stuff so feel free to ask away.

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I agree with cordell. I use the resistor mod and br7ef plugs as well. as long as you have all the accessories and good tune and spray it safely there are no worries. and yeah don't bother starting with a 75 shot. it won't last long....lol.
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Linn And Cordell: Can you guys point in the right direction with a link on LS1tech? I am teh suxor @ search. Id like to spray 200 wet on the ole LS6...

 

 

There are a few things you need to keep in mind to keep your motor safe and in once piece. Pull at least 2 degrees of timing for every 50 HP you add with spray and make sure you run a WOT switch, an arming switch and an RPM activation window. Like Scott said make sure you run the right plugs. I've always run NGK TR6s (one step colder.) You will also need to change the plugs a few times each season.

 

I would not run more than 150 shot on a stock bottom end and if you are running that much I would not spray your car in 5th gear. I would also recommend running a duel nozzle setup.

 

 

Start reading the stickies.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1314834-faq-how-much-can-you-spray-your-stock-shortblock-some-helpful-nitrous-info.html

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What are you using to pull timing? Resistor might work good but wouldnt hurt to have something to verify it is working.

 

If you set up the resistor mod correctly, final ignition timing will show up accuratly on a scan tool or logging software.

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There are a few things you need to keep in mind to keep your motor safe and in once piece. Pull at least 2 degrees of timing for every 50 HP you add with spray and make sure you run a WOT switch, an arming switch and an RPM activation window. Like Scott said make sure you run the right plugs. I've always run NGK TR6s (one step colder.) You will also need to change the plugs a few times each season.

 

I would not run more than 150 shot on a stock bottom end and if you are running that much I would not spray your car in 5th gear. I would also recommend running a duel nozzle setup.

 

 

Start reading the stickies.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1314834-faq-how-much-can-you-spray-your-stock-shortblock-some-helpful-nitrous-info.html

 

Kind of surprising that you still use a TR6, going the non-projected plug route offers an increased margin of safety.

 

For those that don't know, the "TR" series of NGK plugs have a projected tip, and the "BR" series of NGK plugs are non-projected tip. The non-projected tips are much less likely to burn a ground strap and tend to be much more controlled in a nitrous application. When I ran TR6s not only did they play a roll in the detonation that killed my original engine, but they would round off the ground strap from getting too hot.

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Kind of surprising that you still use a TR6, going the non-projected plug route offers an increased margin of safety.

 

For those that don't know, the "TR" series of NGK plugs have a projected tip, and the "BR" series of NGK plugs are non-projected tip. The non-projected tips are much less likely to burn a ground strap and tend to be much more controlled in a nitrous application. When I ran TR6s not only did they play a roll in the detonation that killed my original engine, but they would round off the ground strap from getting too hot.

 

I've never had any detonation problems with the TR6s but, it might be time to switch since I want to run a bigger shot in the spring.

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There are a few things you need to keep in mind to keep your motor safe and in once piece. Pull at least 2 degrees of timing for every 50 HP you add with spray and make sure you run a WOT switch, an arming switch and an RPM activation window. Like Scott said make sure you run the right plugs. I've always run NGK TR6s (one step colder.) You will also need to change the plugs a few times each season.

 

I would not run more than 150 shot on a stock bottom end and if you are running that much I would not spray your car in 5th gear. I would also recommend running a duel nozzle setup.

 

 

Start reading the stickies.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1314834-faq-how-much-can-you-spray-your-stock-shortblock-some-helpful-nitrous-info.html

 

cordell is right DO NOT run a tr6 they cost me my stock motor. run a br7 and to the guy wanting to spray 200 he should be ok on a b8efs thats what i run on my 175 and on the verge of going to b9s.

 

linn is right on running a wot and window switch but i was also definatly run a fuel pressure safety switch as well if your pulling off the rails. i you can also go over 150 easily on a stock motor if you got the fuel, right plugs and timing pulled and learn to read the plugs to tune off of. i sprayed my stock motor with 200 for a very long time and if it wasnt for the tr6s it would have been a lot longer.

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cordell is right DO NOT run a tr6 they cost me my stock motor. run a br7 and to the guy wanting to spray 200 he should be ok on a b8efs thats what i run on my 175 and on the verge of going to b9s.

 

linn is right on running a wot and window switch but i was also definatly run a fuel pressure safety switch as well if your pulling off the rails. i you can also go over 150 easily on a stock motor if you got the fuel, right plugs and timing pulled and learn to read the plugs to tune off of. i sprayed my stock motor with 200 for a very long time and if it wasnt for the tr6s it would have been a lot longer.

 

I ran tr6s for 4 years on a 100 shot. only went to the 7s to spray a 150.

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As I stated earlier the non-projected tip plugs just add to the safety factor, personally I'd never run a TR series of plug because I blame them as having a part in melting down my original engine but regardless of personal opinion non-projected tip plugs are much safer in a nitrous application. When you use a NPT plug the ground strap is much shorter and much less likely to get hotter and melt. You guys want to run TR6s go ahead, I wish you the best of luck, but when you start pushing your set-ups its a weak link.
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I got 7's on mine but I don't recall if I got TR7's or not. I think I got them from HSW and got the BR but I better double check since it's been a WHILE since I put them in. Haven't even sprayed it yet though so it doesn't matter anyway.
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