Now own a 302 Block: Need Learned

[Rhett]

I now own a SBF 302 Bare Block.

 

What would you guys do from the ground up?

 

I would like for it to handle 500-550 whp.

 

First Power adder I would do is Nitrous, Eventually save up enough for a good turbo kit and a cam for the boosted application.

 

But other than Changing the Cam, I plan on building it to support the Turbo when its time.

 

So please learn me on compression and what internals I should look for.. I dont want to waste monies if I dont need to.

 

There is not a set budget as of yet.. but I will figure that out eventually.

 

Thanks!

[Rhett]

I am also thinking to go simple and running a Carb instead of EFI

[NTHER91]

the problem is ther is a lot that you will have to change when going boosted unless you build it "stock".. ring gaps will be way diff between the two and so will compression so build it right the first time for what your going to do in the end.

[Rhett]

the problem is ther is a lot that you will have to change when going boosted unless you build it "stock".. ring gaps will be way diff between the two and so will compression so build it right the first time for what your going to do in the end.

 

.. I wont be able to go boosted prob till next winter or so. So How can I build it to either run N/A or Spray for a year but still be done right for the turbo set up... this is kind of new territory for me

[Nickey4271647545519]

Nitrous and turbo motors are different animals. Pick which one you want and build for that.

[Rhett]

Built 2 motors

Cant afford it..

 

Nitrous and turbo motors are different animals. Pick which one you want and build for that.

 

Well lets go with a nitrous motor build for now then. who knows maybe I'll get Linn syndrome and "Like the way it Hits!"

 

Then maybe later down the road pull it back out and set it up for a turbo when I have the extra cash flow to do so.

 

So Nitrous Motor Build... GO!!

[NTHER91]

put together a forged "N/A" motor with stockish compression no more that mid nine, and set everything up stock like stock ring gap and all that. you do not need a n2o cam for that power level nor do you need a turbo cam for the same power level. Put a good set of heads on it and intake just use the fordged internals and be done. then you can put what ever power adder on it you want.

[NTHER91]

n2o motors have a large ring gap so make sure you set a limit on what amount your gonna spray and stick with it.

 

the rest is just all just strong internals and good heads. just get everything so the motor is "E FISH ANT". because my motor is so efficent I run low 11's high 10's with no spray and I will be shooting a bit to it next year. and my motor isnt anything special just well matched parts.

[Rhett]

So going the 331 Stroker route with good heads, Intake, Carb and Cam be a good route to start?

[Rhett]

n2o motors have a large ring gap so make sure you set a limit on what amount your gonna spray and stick with it.

 

the rest is just all just strong internals and good heads. just get everything so the motor is "E FISH ANT". because my motor is so efficent I run low 11's high 10's with no spray and I will be shooting a bit to it next year. and my motor isnt anything special just well matched parts.

 

Define good heads. Could you give an example please?... Like I said Im new to this.

[ICEMAN1647545504]

Define good heads. Could you give an example please?... Like I said Im new to this.

 

Aluminum heads. Trick Flow, Edelbrock, even worked up SVO GT40X's will work. I don't know much about AFR's. Some think that AFR's are the best out there, but I just don’t know anything about them. AFR's tend to get expensive. 331 or a 347 stroker will work. Stay at about 9:1, 9.5:1 compression and you should be fine. If you want a simple "of the shelf cam", than an E303 or an F303 will work for you. Also a Trick Flow stage 1 (similar to an E303) or an Anderson B-41 cam will work for your spray. All those cams are very streetable. Comp cams offers a few cams as well. Or you can go with a custom Ed Curtis cam. You can go bigger/better on the cam if you like. 1.6 or 1.7 rockers (depending on the lift of the cam, I would do 1.6) will work. I would try to stay EFI (if you want to turbo later). That should give you at least 350-360 RWHP on motor. Spray 100-150 and you should reach your goal.

[schmuckingham]

331 for boost and a 347 for NA/ Nitrous.

 

 

Keep the revs low and don't have insane cylinder pressure at low RPMs and the block should survive for a little bit.

 

I would have sold you a much stronger 351 block for 50 bucks AHAHA

[twistedfocus1647545489]

EFI adds a little complexity and cost, but IMO is always worth it. Also, as Ice mentioned, it adds alot of flexibility to the mix if you want to change up power adders. Honestly you can probably find a happy medium for ring gap that will work for N2O or boost at the ~500hp power level.

 

Agreed on the E or F cam being good choices on the cheap. I really like the Comp XE series but any good cam that maintains a fairly wide lobe separation would work well with power adders such as N2O and boost.

 

Also, be realistic and firm about your goals before you begin. If (when?) you get bored with ~500hp and decide to go beyond that you're in dangerous territory on a stock block, so you'd be building a second engine if you wanted to do it right. That's where a better block, specific ring gaps, etc. really come into play.

 

Not sticking to the plan is expensive... ask me how I know... :fa:

[Cordell]

I thought over 500whp was the breaking point for most 302s? I'm not a Ford guy or very experienced with SBFs so I'm just curious.

 

I would imagine that a stroker with good heads is going to be the right direction, but as other's have said a good nitrous motor isn't going to be a good boost motor and vise versa.

[DKilbourne]

I thought over 500whp was the breaking point for most 302s? I'm not a Ford guy or very experienced with SBFs so I'm just curious.

 

I would imagine that a stroker with good heads is going to be the right direction, but as other's have said a good nitrous motor isn't going to be a good boost motor and vise versa.

 

The 500whp # is extremely dependant on where you rev the motor. If you keep it under 6K, then it should last longer. If you are running a blower and the crank is getting yanked on every time you get on it, that is another issue as well. Plenty of guys who ran a stock bottom end with loads of spray, but didn't rev to the moon who kept them together for awhile. Personally, I would build a motor with a good block if I was going for that hp #, but if that isn't an option just be smart about the build.

I killed my 302 when it was probably 350 flywheel because I revved it to the limiter all of the time and spun a bearing, then the crank took a break. At 500 wheel it's a crap shoot honestly.

[Miller]

I'm thinkin it's a bad idea. If you're in a pinch for money I wouldn't try to make that motor make over 400ish to the wheels. Or else you will be back to the drawing board really quickly. Should have gone 351 or dart if that's what you have your heart set on.

[Buckeye1647545503]

You are way overthinking it. The block is the limiting factor, buy a .030 over rebuild kit with a forged piston and a name brand rod. Put a cheap set a gt40s or gt40ps. Buy a set of stainless shorty headers (summit had some for like 149) install them backward and build a y pipe. Buy a 300 turbo from chad and a ebay intercooler. Cooler pipes can be made of steal to keep cost down or have someone with a tig make aluminium ones if you want. Ford harnesses are separate from the cars wireing so you can buy a engine harness cheap and go efi cheap. Basicly with boost on a weak 302 block buying quality race parts only makes xpensive garbage when splits

[Cordell]

If I was gonna do it, I'd start with a better block than a stock 302....

 

This is what we all told him in the thread he started over the weekend about motors to build.

[schmuckingham]

If I was gonna do it, I'd start with a better block than a stock 302....

 

At least start with a mexican 302 or an A4 block

[oh8sti]

At least start with a mexican 302 or an A4 block

 

2 subaru 4 bangers held together with subibond is more along the lines i was thinking.

[Rhett]

331 for boost and a 347 for NA/ Nitrous.

 

 

Keep the revs low and don't have insane cylinder pressure at low RPMs and the block should survive for a little bit.

 

I would have sold you a much stronger 351 block for 50 bucks AHAHA

 

You still have said 351?

 

Why did you just up and buy a bare block anyway?

That's a great questions. Rhett, I thought I talked you out of this terrible idea. FYI, you can buy a complete long block for a few hundred dollars. Or a complete running mustang for $2k.

 

I got the Block from some one I knew and decided it would be a good starting point. I paid $20 for it. So if I decide to go a diferent route Ill sell it on CL for $20

 

I dont have a car to put it in, but thats ok... there are tons of cars to swap a SBF into cheap-ish. I wanted to build the motor first, take my time and do it right for what I want to do with it. I dont have the money to buy a car just yet. so this is something I want to peice together as I go and not rush it and learn some.

[mrtbolt64]

You still have said 351?

 

 

 

 

I got the Block from some one I knew and decided it would be a good starting point. I paid $20 for it. So if I decide to go a diferent route Ill sell it on CL for $20

 

I dont have a car to put it in, but thats ok... there are tons of cars to swap a SBF into cheap-ish. I wanted to build the motor first, take my time and do it right for what I want to do with it. I dont have the money to buy a car just yet. so this is something I want to peice together as I go and not rush it and learn some.

 

 

Not trying to be rude, but in the grand scheme of things its wiser to save your money. There really has been some good deals on complete turn key cars. If you try to piece things together piece by piece as money comes available you will spend alot of cash that you did not have to

[AWW$HEEET]

Can't you get a new shortblock out of 5.0L magazines for like $600? I would do this.

[Miller]

Can't you get a new shortblock out of 5.0L magazines for like $600? I would do this.

 

Yes and those blocks are capable of closer to 600 hp

[Rhett]

Can't you get a new shortblock out of 5.0L magazines for like $600? I would do this.

 

Yes and those blocks are capable of closer to 600 hp

 

are these "Bare Blocks"