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help needed 99saab


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If you can give me the year/make/model i'll try and find a factory service manual torrent for you, on a mac so I dont have to worry about viruses, otherwise I wouldn't recommend getting them from torrents. Edited by acklac7
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Pulled a p0300 multiple random misfire code.

Causes

 

A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

  • Faulty spark plugs or wires
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector(s)
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
  • Faulty camshaft position sensor
  • Defective computer

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Well I always start with spark and fuel. Does it have spark on all cylinders? Fuel pressure good? Injector pulse?

 

Yes I'm saying start from scratch, no I wouldn't assume any of the undoubtably cheap parts on the car are good.

 

Start with the above, and go from there.

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most of that is beyond my expertise. I have been searching for an hr for a egr valve to inspect it but I don't see it anywhere.

 

may not have an EGR, if it does it's got to be connected somewhere between the exhaust and intake. Some are connected through the head but would have a solenoid on one side or another.

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Do you have a test light?

 

That can be wedged between the spark plug boot to test for spark (and I don't mean puncture, I mean between the boot and the wire), it can be hooked up backwards to check for injector pulse. I'd look at the plugs themselves and see if they look gas fouled or lean, or see if you can narrow down to one cylinder.

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Well I can honestly say I've never worked on one. If it were me I'd want to know if it was missing on one cylinder or if the miss is all over the place. Unfortunatly this is a lot harder to figure out without a scan tool to show you live misfires. Could very well have had other issues and now has a clogged cat.

 

If it's what I'm picturing I have a set of 4 spark plug wires that I connect between the plugs and the DIS to make it easier to diagnose.

 

If this is at your house Jason I can swing by on my way home, but I'm on my bike today and can't bring much with me. You have my number?

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it's actually my brother I don't really speak with but was trying to do a favor for my dad. He delivers pizzas and hasn't been able to work since tha car broke down. He picked it up and will try to limp it along until I can figure out a way to test something. Scott if you want to stop by I can try to get him back over here with it, just let me know.
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it's actually my brother I don't really speak with but was trying to do a favor for my dad. He delivers pizzas and hasn't been able to work since tha car broke down. He picked it up and will try to limp it along until I can figure out a way to test something. Scott if you want to stop by I can try to get him back over here with it, just let me know.

 

Well if he's already left with it I don't know how much you want to do screwing around with it. You let me know if you end up going further and I can try and give you a hand.

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It definately needs help quickly. It barely stays running and accelerating, forget about it. I was just out of options for him and replacing the starter actually got it running so its driveable. I know that in its current state its either going to break down on him on a pizza delivery again or do more damage. I hate to see him struggle even if I have other issues with him. If you want to stop by, just tell me when and I will see if I can get it back over here.
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The coil pack on these is similar to the Ecotec Scott if that makes it easier. Single pack, across the entire top of the valve cover with 4 boots hanging off the bottom.

 

Is this a turbo car? Surprised no one has asked.

 

Have you checked for tears in the intake boot past the MAF?

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Honestly I would hate to have to chase a P0300 without a scan tool looking at some sort of data. So, don't be discouraged. Yes that list you provided gives some input, but there are a lot of other things not menioned that could cause it.

 

I know that torn intake boots are somewhat common on this era Euro car. I know that the coil goes bad on these (not a cheap part to just throw at it). If it is a turbo car, that opens a whole mess of possible issues. Soft/torn intercooler hoses, vacuum lines broken etc.

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Honestly I would hate to have to chase a P0300 without a scan tool looking at some sort of data. So, don't be discouraged. Yes that list you provided gives some input, but there are a lot of other things not menioned that could cause it.

 

I know that torn intake boots are somewhat common on this era Euro car. I know that the coil goes bad on these (not a cheap part to just throw at it). If it is a turbo car, that opens a whole mess of possible issues. Soft/torn intercooler hoses, vacuum lines broken etc.

 

QFT

 

I haven't worked on any Saabs of that era, as I'm sure you're at least familiar. If its like the ecotech then my previous statement about using 4 spark plug wires to jump the coil pack to the plugs helps diagnos which cylinder. If it is a turbo car then that does complicate it some, just more stuff to look at really.

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Well the car will be towed back here soon. I told him he was going to have issues soon after he took it and it lasted a day before he was delivering pizza's and it did the same thing it did the first time on him. After a few deliveries it just wont start back up. When he left out of here the other day I told him it was running so bad I am surprised it started for him to take. I will try to do some diagnosing for him tomorrow. Scott I know your having some family stuff going on but if you need a break and want to come tinker, let me know.
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It just got here and it wont even attempt to start. Throw the starter pack on it and turn key, nothing. I have lights, the windows go up strong, I can hear the fuel pump kick on and nothing happens. The starter doesnt make a sound, absolutely nothing.

 

I would take a look at the starter connections first, maybe even try and whap the starter with a hammer / pipe (risky cause the starter should still be under warranty and you might damage the case.

 

There's a whole hoard of starter-circuit issues that could be causing the symptoms you describe. Also could be a anti-theft/pcm issue, but my bet is the starting problem lies somewhere in the starter circuit.

 

Currently downloading the most recent *free* version of Alldata, so I might be able to point you in the right direction here in a few days...Complete AllData package = 282gb :eek:

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I took the battery out and put it on the charger for the night. It appears to be less than 6 months old based on the manufacturing sticker and I wasnt sure if I was dealing with a good charge or not. The first thing I did when it got here was reach down to the starter and make sure the wires were still in place on it and they were. The issue it currently has could be another starter but for 2 to go bad in less than 2 weeks seems odd. I almost think it could be a neutral safety switch issue. Then theres the misfire issue which I dont think is related unless a crankshaft position sensor being bad(a possible misfire cause) would prevent it from attempting to start which I dont believe it would, I could be wrong.
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I took the battery out and put it on the charger for the night. It appears to be less than 6 months old based on the manufacturing sticker and I wasnt sure if I was dealing with a good charge or not. The first thing I did when it got here was reach down to the starter and make sure the wires were still in place on it and they were. The issue it currently has could be another starter but for 2 to go bad in less than 2 weeks seems odd. I almost think it could be a neutral safety switch issue.

 

Where does the negative battery cable ground to? have you inspected the ground location for corrosion. I had symptoms eerily similar to what you describe and it turned out to be a bad body ground to the negative terminal. At this point you need to verify the last point in the circuit where you are getting less then 12v and then backtrack till you find 12v again. Out of knowhere I got a subscription for Alldata *thanks again* so I'll try and find the starter circuit diagram here in a bit.

Edited by acklac7
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Also got the High-Def, searchable .PDF version of Automotive Electricity and Electronics has two separate manuals, one for the Classroom and one for the Shop, the shop manual basically walks you through how to diagnose starting/electircal issues w/ color illustrations. Anyone wants it just hollar and i'll up it, it's like $115 new or something.

 

http://books.google.com/books?id=ZI4HQgAACAAJ&printsec=frontcover&img=1&zoom=1&l=220

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