Toph6888 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Ordered one of these tonight to put into my intake piping before the maf to help even out the air flow: http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html Essentially it just glues into the intake and directs the airflow into a straight pattern. Apparently a lot of GM guys use them. Should help get rid of the noise I am seeing at the MAF. I am also goign to trade in my O2 sensors that I bought new and I feel got clogged up from running the car so lean when I first started it. Gotta love advance auto warranty. Hopefully that with the maf air straightener will even everything out and give the car a super smooth idle. Also I got all the fuel line that I need to drop the tank out and replace the line in teh tank, so maybe that will get done here so I can get one really good drive in before the winter. Every time I drive it I just get super paranoid and start hearing fake noises haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC K9 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Can someone educate me as to why the change in boost source for the wastegate netted 20hp more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate1647545505 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Can someone educate me as to why the change in boost source for the wastegate netted 20hp more? Somewhat interesting point - you wouldn't think the delta P between the two would make that much of a difference. Glad you got her running! That setup is snug in there but I don't see to many band aids and curse words so it sounds like you have it down. Congrats man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Can someone educate me as to why the change in boost source for the wastegate netted 20hp more? Here the back to back runs on the 5psi, before and after moving the reference point. As you can see from the boost log, the boost held a bit higher and was more consistent at higher rpm (didn't drop off as much) so I feel its safe to assume the extra bit of boost was where the extra power came from. Glad you got her running! That setup is snug in there but I don't see to many band aids and curse words so it sounds like you have it down. Congrats man. Thanks I appreciate it. I've been able to get it out ever now and then when the weather is above 35 or 40 degrees and dry out and its been doing well. Just driving it around to get the gas out of the tank so that I can drop it to hopefully fix my high pump duty cycle so that it doesnt choke out at high rpms/boost. The pump is supposed to be a 310lph pump, so it should flow way more then I would be able to get out of the 6 39lb cobra injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Been working on cleaning up a couple of little things on the mustang. Replaced one of the o2 sensors, still need to replace the other. Getting better results with them. Also tried out the air straightener. Initially it seems to help a bit, but I need to be able to actually take the car out on some longer drives so the car can adjust itself to it, not to mention I need more datalogs to make sure its not gonna mess with my AFR in boost. I decided to give this little thing a try (its on order and hopefully gets here soon haha) http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31yLqeR4o3L.jpg Along with a new tablet that I got for xmas and a program called torque Its obviously not as good as datalogging with the sct, but I figured I would try it for the low price and the ease of mounting a tablet and adjustable gauges. I like this option for just driving around if I just want to keep an eye on things, vs datalogging wiht the laptop and the handheld and all the cables in the way that can only log for about 10mins before the file gets too big and I have to stop, save the file, and start a new file. To my knowledge I haven't found a view parameters set up within livelink, so I figured this would work fine. Not to mention the ability to use it with other vehicles too. Other then that, I got my new wastegate spring, haven't put it in yet though lol. Only other thing is thinking of going to a smaller turbo. I'm thinking of the classic gt3582R with a T4 flange 0.68 turbine A/R. Thinking this because I want something a little bit smaller so it spools up quicker. right now I don't really hit boost till 3000rpms, and I would like to hit boost sooner (around 2300-2600rpms) and I don't need top end power because I only really drive it on the street, and if need be I can have both turbos and run whichever I want because they both bolt up the same. Ahh projects never end haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I got my obd connector and holder for my tablet so I tried them out while going to get dinner tonight. Worked pretty well, and the gauges lit right up with info from the ecu. Pretty cool little app. It is a touch laggy, maybe half a second, but hey for a $5 app and $15 adapter I'll take that being able to put it in any car and it just starts right up, not to mention can read any trouble codes. I got a cheap mount off of amazon so that I can just mount the tablet to the dash. Here is what it looks like in the mustang: Tomorrow it will be hopefully warm enough to take the mustang out so that I can see what my o2 sensors and STFT's are doing, and hopefully be able to see if there is anything I can do to calm them down. Other news, I finally found all the info on my turbo today (inducer/exducers/trims) so I don't have to take it off and measure, and I think that if I were to go to a different turbo it would definitly be a t3 instead of a t4. I just want more power down low then I do up high. It would be pretty easy to rig up. I can make a new merge pipe that adapts to my current crossover pipes and set it up to fit right up with my current dump pipe, that way if I ever want to switch turbos I can just swap mergepipes/turbos/tune and I don't have to mess with adjusting everything else. So probably around $100 for a new merge pipe, find a used t3 for around $300-500, and the tune should be close enough to where a couple datalogs and email tunes will have it figured out. Maybe in the summer I will try that. Need to just put some miles on the car in the spring and see if its something I really want to move forward on lol. Curse you winter and not letting me drive my car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate1647545505 Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 If you're up for some experimenting, look into a divided turbine housing; running each cylinder bank to a separate side. http://i.imgur.com/DGKY3rz.jpg There are a decent amount of high flowing T3 inlet flange style turbos out there, but maybe there's a divided T4 housing out there that won't break the bank. Note: You'll have to run a split wastegate setup like: http://i41.tinypic.com/2011yx0.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 If you're up for some experimenting, look into a divided turbine housing; running each cylinder bank to a separate side. http://i.imgur.com/DGKY3rz.jpg There are a decent amount of high flowing T3 inlet flange style turbos out there, but maybe there's a divided T4 housing out there that won't break the bank. Note: You'll have to run a split wastegate setup like: http://i41.tinypic.com/2011yx0.jpg You know I have started looking more into this, and thought it would be a lot of work, but because mine is an even firing engine it actually would be pretty simple with this. The way my turbo piping is set up, right now I am leaning to potentially making another merge pipe for a t3, and having the option between either the small turbo or the big turbo. Going with this thought, I might go for a divided t3/t4 turbo with a large A/r on the turbine so that I can keep the high end but also add a lot down low. Thanks for the thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Did a couple little things the other day. First up I got a 3bar GM map sensor so that I can datalog my boost using the map as an analog input on my sct x3. Got the sensor and the plug for it off of rock auto for around $75. Plus in the future if I decide to go to a standalone EMS I can use the map for a speed density set up instead of maf if I want. First step, find extra aluminum from excess piping in my intercooler charge piping kit Then I just cut the tubing, hammered it flat, and marked up a template for the mount. Had to make two mounts because I messed up the first, but whatever haha. Not exactly pretty or perfectly straight, but it should work just fine. I just need to grab the 5V source and ground from the EGR connector, and then run the signal wire into the engine bay and connect up to my firewire cable that I use for datalogging my AFR off of my AEM wideband. Second thing I did was to drop the tank to replace the line between the fuel pump and the fuel hat. We were pegging the fuel pump at 12psi boost and 350rwhp which this pump should do just fine. We were also getting around 45-50% duty cycle on the pump at idle, which seems extremely high for this vehicle. We figured there was a hole in the line, and its easy enough to drop the tank and replace. Prob took us about 1.5hrs taking our time. To drop the tank it was probably 20-30mins. Old stuff out New stuff in I haven't gotten a chance to datalog the new pump duty cycle bc my battery keeps dying from all this cold. I will hopefully get a chance to do that tonight/tomorrow once the battery is charged. If this doesn't fix the fuel issues, I'm just gonna say fuck it and put in a return style system. I can get a fuel rail off of a 94-97 msutang and modify it to fit or just modify my current one and run the new line back to the tank, and adapt the hat to work. Just a matter of how much time I really want to put into this stupid fuel system lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 So I am working on trying to find where all my power draws are coming from. Right now with everything off I am pulling 250millamps, ten times what I should. When I pull the 10A red fuse from the Audio location, I drop to about 120milliamps. I tried checking every other fuse, and no go. I am thinking there is something wrong with my batter relocation wiring. I think my battery is bad too, but idk. I took it to autozone, they charged it and said it tested fine. I put it in the car, took about ten-twenty mins to get the car off jackstands, and then tried to start it and there was zero cranking power. Here is a diagram of how I have the battery relocation set up, if anyone could look over the wiring and tell me if I have a problem I would appreciate it. As soon as the starter actually cranks, teh engine fires right up and I am able to drive wherever with no problems and everything works fine. After i got the car started tonight I took it out and ran a datalog with a couple pulls. I have the boost controller set for 7.5psi, and I am getting to 90% duty 1cycle with this pump, and at this boost i'm only around the 280-300rwhp range. So idk why its doing what it is. I guess I am going to have to take the pump back out and test to see if it is flowing what its supposed to, and then if its not right either put in a new pump or go return style fuel system. I was looking at my x and y fuel pump inputs for voltage, and it looks like the pump is only seeing up to 7 volts, does this sound correct? Here is a chart of the fuel pump duty cycle and the fuel pump voltage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Doing a couple little things during the winter months. First off I bought a different intercooler because I wanted to cut out some charge piping. Going to the same side enter/exit cuts out about 2ft of piping. I am also going to get the advantage tuning software from sct so I can tune the maf for a 3" pipe and get rid of the 2ft of 3.5" in front of my maf. With those two changes, I cut out 230ish cu inches on my charge piping volume, which is a full displacement of teh engine, so the turbo should kick on sooner in the rpms. The other advantage is now the cooler is a 2pass heat exchanger, so it will cool more efficiently, but it also has a big 180 but the cooler is rated for 0.5psi of drop at 15psi from entrance to exit so hopefully it shouldn't be too bad. Second, I got a new throttle body from v6procharged. 70mm BBK. Should open it up a bit since it should be the restriction point now after the porting on the heads/intakes with the cam. Another small thing is that I am going to a pillar gauge for my boost controller/gauge and my Wideband. I really liked having it down by the steering wheel so that people wouldn't see the gauges when I was just cruising down the highway, but I also couldn't see the afr gauge that well when I would start getting into the throttle, so up they go. Being able to see if my car leans out is more important then ignoring some people gawking at the gauges on the highway. The only other things is I got a cobra fuel hat/fuel pumps, and I am going to be buying a new cobra tank with the baffles. All in all I will have $400 in it, but I'll sell my old pump once I get through the tuning. Whoo dual pumps and fuel system that supports 500whp on cobras (with the big supercharger so it should support more on my turbo set up) I also have some 60lb injectors on the way. Good bye tax refund haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Finally had a nice day so I rolled the mustang out to take care of some odds and ends. Finally got my aluminum BOV flange welded onto its new pipe and got my new intercooler on today. the intercooler routed this way let me cut out about 2.5-3ft of piping, which is about one full displacement of my engine (210-250cuin, my engine with the bore is 236cuin). So hopefully that will help to cut my spool time down. Guy from work tig welded this on for me: Finished set up The other thing I did was redo all the gauge wiring from the engine bay to the interior by redoing the hole in the firewall and putting a better grommet in then what I had before (it was too small). I also got the wideband/boost controller onto the a pillar. Went to the pillar because the mount by the wheel had them too low for me to really see them while I was driving. Was able to tuck the wires a lot easier then I though it would be. I am just waiting to get to the store tomorrow to go get some zip ties to make sure none of the wires drop down by my feet while I am driving to have it all done. Need to get an 01-04 throttle cable to put on my larger 70mm throttle body, will be getting new 60lb fuel injectors and a cobra tank in the summer to keep my fuel system duty cycles down. Right now at my high boost (12psi) I end up maxing them out, so I would rather not push it haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Finally had a nice day so I rolled the mustang out to take care of some odds and ends. Finally got my aluminum BOV flange welded onto its new pipe and got my new intercooler on today. the intercooler routed this way let me cut out about 2.5-3ft of piping, which is about one full displacement of my engine (210-250cuin, my engine with the bore is 236cuin). So hopefully that will help to cut my spool time down. Guy from work tig welded this on for me: Finished set up The other thing I did was redo all the gauge wiring from the engine bay to the interior by redoing the hole in the firewall and putting a better grommet in then what I had before (it was too small). I also got the wideband/boost controller onto the a pillar. Went to the pillar because the mount by the wheel had them too low for me to really see them while I was driving. Was able to tuck the wires a lot easier then I though it would be. I am just waiting to get to the store tomorrow to go get some zip ties to make sure none of the wires drop down by my feet while I am driving to have it all done. Need to get an 01-04 throttle cable to put on my larger 70mm throttle body, will be getting new 60lb fuel injectors and a cobra tank in the summer to keep my fuel system duty cycles down. Right now at my high boost (12psi) I end up maxing them out, so I would rather not push it haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Haven't posted here in a while, so I figured I would give a quick update. My exhaust kinda rotates and rubs against my steering column so I need to put another hanger up by the transmission to hold it in place better. I got my tuning software from Latosa racing, including a tuning guide and DVD. I would suggest them if anyone is looking to pick up the software. So far I have been able to follow everything really easily and the guide is well worth the money. Also was working on my injector timing map since I have that bigger camshaft, working on making sure the injectors are firing at the correct time so they finish fueling the runner before the intake valve opens. I got everything I needed to fit my 70mm tb, and put it all on, and then found out that the opening in the intake is too small so the TB blade won't open. Womp womp. So next time I take the upper intake off I will have to port the intake to match the TB. I was having issues with being able to see my water temp / oil pressure / EGT gauges, so I bought an angled gauge holder set from Summit. Took a while to get in because I had to dremel clearance for the angled holders on the center console. Got a little too happy with the dremel, but overall I think it worked out well and while in the car its a lot easier to see the gauges. Kinda hard to tell in the pictures, but instead of pointing straight back, they are angled toward the driver at about a 30* angle. I wired up my 3bar map sensor, as well as setting up the firewire cable for the map sensor and wideband afr so I can now datalog boost and afr with my handheld/computer. I switched all the intake piping back to 3" piping, so I am now working on scaling hte maf for the 3" tubing. Initially divided all of the maf table by the cross section ratio of the 3" to the 3.5" as a starting point. Got the engine up to temp, then logged in closed loop the maf counts/afr/STFT bank 1 and 2 at idle, 1500/1750/2000/2250/2500 rpms to adjust the table. Did 2-3 iterations based off of the STFT's and got the car to where it ran pretty smoothly and held between a 14.5 and 15 afr. drove it around a little bit, and everything looked to be pretty good, except when initially leaving a stop sign the afr would go to 16.5 but as soon as I was off the clutch it would go back to 14.5-15. So I need to figure that out. The maf should be close enough now though to where I can force open loop and tune the maf in better. Hopefully get that done next week. Last bit, getting into another project as well, a 2007 Suzuki GS500F. It's my first bike so it should be enough to get me around and not worrying about dropping it if/when I do. It has just a couple small imperfections (the cowl has a 2-3" crack on either side by the turn signals that I will repair/paint) and then a small rub on the edge of the left fairing and a small rub on the crank case. All in all its a pretty solid bike, especially for under $2500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Got the new HPX slot style maf on yesterday and the new tune updated for the new maf curve. Got the harness all spliced together started it up and it ran great. Was able to actually take it around the block instead of just listening to it surge in the driveway. Also, does anyone have any experience with these mushroom filters? My K&N filter is too long, and its hitting my intake pipe before the maf, and its kinda skewing the pipes a bit that I would like to even out. with this new filter not being very long I would be able to straighten out the pipes, but I havent really heard good/bad on these mushroom filters http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/GRM-10-086_ml.jpg?rep=False Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Been working on getting it going again the past couple days: I decided not to use that air filter. It was plastic on the inside, and it didn't save me as much room as I was hoping for. So I went back to cone filter I had on it before. Good thing that other filter was only $15. I kept having my exhaust catch on my steering shaft, so I went to advance auto and got a cheap hanger kit to take care of it for the time being till I can dial in teh tune so that I can get it to my work where I can get it on the lift and weld in a proper hanger. Its not pretty, but hey, it will do the job for now haha. Also I sealed up an exhaust connection where I think I am getting a small air pocket and giving me false readings on my O2 sensor. Now back into the tuning. I started by tuning to dial in my maf. To warm it up I had it in closed loop so the o2's could bring the maf back into line, and this kept the car at around 14.6-15.5 for the idle. Adapative was turned off, and the base fuel table was set to all 1's for lambda 1 command (afr 14.6). I then put it in open loop, commanding lambda 1 in all fuel cells still. Car would idle at about 15.5-16afr, but evened out to about 15.3 (lambda 1.05ish) and I made multiple checks at 1500rpms, 2000rpms, 2500rpms and 3000rpms in neutral. I kept getting a lambda of 1.05 for all my readings, so I selected the maf counts that were correlated to those different rpms (280 counts was the highest) so I selected the air values for those counts and muliplied them all by 1.05. I reflash the comp, and everything looks good, giving me a 14.6-14.8 afr all the way up to 4000rpms, about 320 counts on my maf. So I say alright, lets start working on tuning this a bit on the street. I keep the maf values, and I adjust the table to where I command the lower lambdas for high loads so it hopefully doesnt blow. I turn the car back on, still in forced open loop, and it is giving me a 15.5-16 afr again at all rpms. I tried multiple times to get back to where I was having hte correct afrs/lambdas, but nothing would work. Anyone ever have this trouble and find any solutions? I'm at a loss. Cars are lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 This is why I have someone else do the tuning for me It is nice to see someone trying to learn to do this on their own though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Realized I haven't updated this thread in a while so thought I would catch it back up. First up, was having issues with maxing fuel injectors and vacuum leaks, so I bought some 60lb siemen deka injectors and was determined to find the leaks. Swapping out the injectors While I had the intake off I ported out the throttle body opening to allow my 70mm throttle body to open. Stock tb on bottom (57mm) new on top (70mm) Ported throttle opening: Once I put the intake back on, I managed to find my vacuum leaks by making a cheap smoker out of an air compressor air pump, some plastic tubing, a coffee can, and a black and mild. Found my leak behind the rear runner on the upper intake and also on the fuel rail where the injector sits in the head. After that I decided to figure out my main tuning issues. Was still having issues getting everything to line up right for adjustments, and I had always been trying to adjust someone elses tune. I decided that for some reason or another it wasn't working and I was mostly trying to band aid different situtations vs having them set up properly which I just couldn't get to work out with the email tunes. So I decided to make a tune from scratch following the Lasota tuning guide and now everything works really well, all the afr's are withing about 5% across all levels and at WOT everything stays nice and safe at around 11.3-11.5afr. Had lots of help from multiple people for tuning adjustments and very thankful for all the help. I wanted to be able to learn how to be able to adjust the little things so that I can have the car running during all my small upgrades so that next time I go on the dyno it will just be small touches and mostly power runs. After that I got a strut tower brace for cheap and put that on, but like most others managed to crack the cowl so I will have to get that replaced at some point. I also finally got a nice set of springs since the ones I had on were a total mismatch. Front used to be a super stiff tokico that was stock height, and then the rear was a stock cobra irs spring with a coil cut. So not only was the car tilted, the ride was harsh in the front and super cushy in the back, so I got a good deal on an unopened set of eibach sport springs for the cobra, and now the car actually rides well and looks even/comfortably lowered. Still need to get a decent picture of it as its always dirty haha. I went to the drag strip in Marion twice since most of this, and never really put down a resepctable time. It was my first time ever drag racing, so I was using the time mainly for datalogging and getting the top end of the maf curve dialed in. Best run was a 15.2 @102 mph, with a 2.58 60' time. My launches are terrible haha. Pretty much I would hold the car at 3500rpms, drop the clutch, and the tires would just grab and the car would fall on its face and take forever to get out of first, especially since even at 6k in 1st gear I am only building 2psi of boost. Overall I was running about 11.5psi, but noticed on the datalog I was at 100% duty cycle on the fuel pump by 5krpms in 3rd and 4th, but from 8psi to 11.5 psi I went from 85% load to 130% load, so thats where the turbo really starts to pick up steam. Had to back the boost off though so I didn't run lean. With that I decided to buy a n2mb wot box with 2 step. When we took it to the track after install it was super busy and a friend blew an axle so I only got two or three passes in before we had to fix his car. Launch was a little better by launching with 2inHg instead of 19inHg, so we chirpped the tires at least but still no real spin off the line, car would still just grab and hte rpms would just drop. Still trying to find that balance point between slipping the clutch and throttle control, but the WOT shifting was a very nice surprise. In the car: Exhaust (first rev was without the 2 step, didnt put the throttle down all the way ): And that pretty much brings us to today. Went to ON3 perofmance in westerville today to get some fuel goodies so I shouldn't run out of fuel for as long as the v6 is in there, a 2003/4 cobra reproduction tank (which is baffled instead of having a basket so its a little better for autocross by keeping fuel by the pumps), (2) 340lph fuel pumps, and an adapter bracket to put the current fuel level sender onto the cobra dual fuel pump hat. Tank and pumps Baffling in tank fuel level sender adapter and cobra fuel hat Also pulled a stock harmonic balancer/pulley and extra fpdm from a scrap yard Gonna be putting all the fuel stuff in this weekend hopefully, as well as upgrading the wiring for each pump since it will be nice and easy with the battery in the trunk. Got some relays, an 8 gauge wire from the battery to the relay, and then 12 gauge wiring that will go to the original and second fpdm that I picked up from the yard and then to the fuel pumps in the tank. Also going to be taking off the underdrive pulley since my powersteering pump is not happy having to supply power to the rack and also the hydroboost brake and being 42% underdriven, so a neutral balanced crank/balancer will be going on. Unfortunately the way my kit is designed I have to drain the coolant and take off one of the radiator hoses so that I can get the belt off, lame. But thats how it goes sometimes. Well, that was a huge update, sorry for the long winded-ness. Hopefully these are the last set of real mods that I will really need as everything else should just be minor adjustments, and maybe get it back on the dyno for some bigger numbers at more then just "12psi" compared to last time since the boost isn't dropping off like it did on the dyno now. Hopefully later this fall or if it has to be this spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 N/a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Started tearing into the car again today so that I can swap out the camshaft lol. Car just had nothing down low, and I don't need a race cam for my goals of the car, I am going back to a "stock" cam, a 4.2L cam from an f150 I pulled a couple weeks ago. Should wake up the bottom end a lot more with some sacrifice up top, but thats fine, I was spinning out to 6k, and if my car stops making power at 5500rpms I'm fine with that too so I don't have to spin it out so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 You had to pull the intake manifold to get the in-block cam out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 You had to pull the intake manifold to get the in-block cam out? Have to get to the lifters and what not. Its not that much more work to pull the intake off since I have to pretty much pull everything out of the way anyways. I'm not a fan of hoping that the lifters will stay in the bores when you take a cam out since its pretty easy for them to drop into the oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE-O Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Holy fuel pump one of those should have been plenty to max out those 60lb. Probably the same fuel setup I will be going with but I might have to use 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Holy fuel pump one of those should have been plenty to max out those 60lb. Probably the same fuel setup I will be going with but I might have to use 3 Yah. Thats the hope lol. It wasn't really an extra expensive to get the two pumps and I didn't feel the twin cobra pumps would have been any better then the single pump I currently had in it. This way I am good to go fuel tank wise no matter what I go with in the future, be it a turbo v8, E85, or some other crazy idea. Plans tonight got cancelled, so I got the cam out the rest of the way. I checked my 4.2 cam and it does fit through all the bearings, so shouldn't be any issue. Need to have it cleaned up just a bit and I have to get some pushrods from my machine shop for another car I'm working on so will have them check it over to make sure its good to use. All the valve train out: Empty block: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Cool build. The 35r in a T4 was perfect for Turbo TB Supercoupes we have done in the pats. I think you would see a LARGE gain from going with a better flowing IC set up. A dual pass with a square end tank is about he worst flowing thing you could put in front of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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