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1993 Supra


miller11386

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that's not what im doing. Yes the piston is moving slightly but you can hear a rush of air once the crank is loaded.

 

Google "total seal ring problems" and you will see why I believe its the rings.

 

Motor will be torn down this weekend to see what's going on. Worst case I bought a HG which is worth the peace of mind to me.

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unsure of the culprit, but 3 suspected sources of the oil burning

 

piston rings

valve guides

valve stem seals.

 

I will have the head gone through this week. If that all checks out, I will be having new high temp Viton seals installed on re-assembly and then replace the rings in the motor.

 

It has really put a damper on my enthusiasm for this year. I will be rebuilding in due time and it may or may not see the drag strip this year.

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Turbo ruled out even though the turbine was oil soaked?

 

unless this turbo magically pushed oil into the combustion chamber, yes.

 

I have photos of when I got it. No oil issues were on it, and it clearly had exh soot on the fins. It was far from clean.

 

Could there also be a turbo issue? sure... is it likely? doubtful.

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Did your pipes have oil in them?

 

Nope. Not one drop. I was amazed at how clean they were. Both hot and cold side were completely dry with no stains.

 

Cold Side pipe (just before Throttle body):

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140506_180213_zps9yubmenq.jpg

 

Hot side Pipe (just after turbo):

 

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140505_193558_zps7pfcxcks.jpg

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The machinist got back to me on the head and stated from what he saw the car was experiencing fuel washing issues. Other than that, the head was in decent condition and should not have been causing the oil loss as I described it. He mentioned the bottom end was more likely the cause of my oil burning.

 

I will need to pull the bottom end apart to confirm. So most likely I will need 87mm rings and a new headgasket to get her on the road.... and about 30-40 hours of labor.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
If you could get the ass end down looks like itd make a nice 1/4 pass. Probably didnt build it for anything like that. Nice car regardless

 

It will be lowered once on the drag pack with slicks. I have never even bothered adjusting the ride height. I literally eyeballed the shocks and that is where it ended up. You will notice the front is quite high actually.

 

And yes, it will most definitely be making passes.. but probably next year. Time will tell.

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Pulled the car apart and found the clutch is damaged -___-

 

Unsure what happened, but leaning toward foreign object damage. In any case, I get to pony up over $600 for a new floater disc.

 

Is that a Tilton? That sucks to discover on top of the engine

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I have also found they used the off the shelf wrist pins in this rod/piston combo. I cant believe they survived 1100whp!!!

 

10524712_669369606490690_98240473795624627_n.jpg

 

 

Also had minor bearing damage to the mains... I am guessing mostly due to fuel in the oil:

 

10470859_669343653159952_7411783207287458324_n.jpg

10524600_669352659825718_2616501697629143081_n.jpg?oh=b5cd19e70a66dbe118d433cf33f3087e&oe=5438E572&__gda__=1414098939_4d76dded879c5fafbd57556bdee581cf

 

Crank is in OK shape.. just needs a light polish

10530754_669352633159054_1829860477710603775_n.jpg

 

ARP studs almost all got lube

 

10550893_669352216492429_5534733006685053916_n.jpg

 

Oil pump looks OK and my welded timing gear is holding up strong

10500259_669359313158386_5597466317934424302_n.jpg

 

 

So as for now, going with bigger wrist pins, new ACL rod and main bearings and debating on filling the block some.. haven't decided yet though.

 

To me, I think it will be best to just take this year off and get it all sorted out.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally back from my vacation to Namibia, so its time to return to the rebuild...

 

While I have the motor apart and needing machine work, I am going to fix a few things that needed addressed. One being a partial fill to help keep the block true at high RPM while keeping it streetable:

 

1471814_683070038453980_6627226475986241942_n.jpg?oh=3744cca43c8ef48d3160edc4df7a0c11&oe=546D70C4&__gda__=1416628410_b207d6f84f4fb6dd98669b4278cdf33f

 

Also got a Torque plate from PRL. I placed an order on Tuesday and got this on Thursday. Super exited and thrilled they were able to turn it around so quickly for me! It is the exact same thickness as the 2j head, so no spacers required. Only torque the head studs to spec and machine away.

 

10538569_683130751781242_2985822583926419220_n.jpg?oh=027b5414780c0c4c18d87a4827f1ca87&oe=546E9F0D&__gda__=1416529589_7c5b30c4407cccc469f4814ef67ffa2d

 

I will be placing an order to get thicker wall wrist pins and basic rebuild supplies from Real Street in a couple days!

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