SausageKing Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 like title says. I own a 99 A4 (Automatic) and in need to use a vag com to diag an issue i have. if someone can scan my car or let me borrow it for a day that would be amazing! Thanx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Get the codes run at the parts store and report back. VagCom isn't the only thing that can pull codes on a VW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SausageKing Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Get the codes run at the parts store and report back. VagCom isn't the only thing that can pull codes on a VW. lol i knew you would be the first to chime in! P0103 car keeps stalling at stops, jumping idle, but drive perfect all other times? Replaced: MAF sensor, ICM, spark plugs, cleaned TB 2 days ago! Checked for boost/vacuum leaks also. couldn't find any. but there might be one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SausageKing Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 lol i knew you would be the first to chime in! P0103 car keeps stalling at stops, jumping idle, but drive perfect all other times? Replaced: MAF sensor, ICM, spark plugs, cleaned TB 2 days ago! Checked for boost/vacuum leaks also. couldn't find any. but there might be one? Forgot to mention i did test my DV and it did not hold vacuum, but i would not think that would cause my stalling issue? mainly boost fluctuations, stuttering ect. Do you know anyone that might have a good one laying around for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Are you still getting the P0103 after replacing the MAF sensor? Those stock DV diapraghms are known to tear after some time, so that would be suspect to me. Diverter valves are plumbed in after the MAF so if the diaphraghm is torn it can cause idle problems that the MAF is trying to adapt to from the unmetered air. May not be a bad idea to force a TB alignment by disconnecting the battery and touching the ends together to make sure the system is drained of any charge. Once you give it power again, turn the key to ACC ON and you should hear the TB servos move and align themselves. Give it a few seconds to do its thing and then you can start the car. How many miles are on the car? Have the O2 or CTS sensors been replaced at any point? It doesn't sound likely in your case, but the coolant temp sensors can give these cars all kinds of trouble when they go bad. I suspect your gas mileage is in the shitter right now, too lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SausageKing Posted April 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Are you still getting the P0103 after replacing the MAF sensor? Those stock DV diapraghms are known to tear after some time, so that would be suspect to me. Diverter valves are plumbed in after the MAF so if the diaphraghm is torn it can cause idle problems that the MAF is trying to adapt to from the unmetered air. May not be a bad idea to force a TB alignment by disconnecting the battery and touching the ends together to make sure the system is drained of any charge. Once you give it power again, turn the key to ACC ON and you should hear the TB servos move and align themselves. Give it a few seconds to do its thing and then you can start the car. How many miles are on the car? Have the O2 or CTS sensors been replaced at any point? It doesn't sound likely in your case, but the coolant temp sensors can give these cars all kinds of trouble when they go bad. I suspect your gas mileage is in the shitter right now, too lol. 156,000 miles yes, i still got that code after replacing MAF sensor when i cleaned the TB i dissconnected the battery for 1.5 hours and keyed on for 5 minutes minimum for the alignment. I picked up another MAF sensor today, i'll see how it behaves in the morning! it starts acting up after the engine is up to temp 15+ minutes. Yes replaced o2 sensor 1 on Friday as well. I also replaced the CTS (blue) when i bought the car 1 month ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmarter Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Forgot to mention i did test my DV and it did not hold vacuum, but i would not think that would cause my stalling issue? mainly boost fluctuations, stuttering ect. Do you know anyone that might have a good one laying around for sale? Not sure how the vdubs look under the hood, but if you have room, take the DV out and check the rubber diaphragm. If it is torn or crack you need a new one. If your idle is jumpy, listen for a leak somewhere...if the bad idle doesn't seem to be from a leak, my guess would be the crank position sensor. My first car was a 90 passat, so I know about the wierd electrical problems, but a coolant temp sensor shouldn't have much to do with a bad idle and stalling, if that was the case i'd be looking at the temps on the cluster (idk if theyre controlled by the ecu or mechanical). if it stays in the cold, it would be a temp sensor or thermostat stuck open, overheating if it was stuck closed. Check all your boost pipes, check the vacuum pump and brake booster for leaks. There's been a few times when I've sworn I checked all the lines for a leak and I always end up finding one when I go back and look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmarter Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Then again, you could pick up a coolant temp sensor (or thermostat) for like 7 bucks at advance auto, given they fit in a VW and aren't something "super special" that needs to be imported...lol I hate that s**t about euros Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.